HomeMy Public PortalAboutBrewster_Berman_15_17_2018Sediment Transport
And The Effects of Rising Seas
Greg Berman
(Woods Hole Sea Grant & Cape Cod Cooperative Extension)
May 17, 2018 Cape Cod Museum of Natural History.
Outline:
•~30 min talk & time for questions
•How does sand move?
•SLR
•Coastal Threats (Existing/Future)
Prepare for
Flooding !!!
No rush… I’ll cross
that bridge when I
come to it.
Sediment Transport
And The Effects of Rising Seas
What is Erosion ?
The Erosion Problem: Education Perspectives
It’s all sediment transport!
What is Erosion???..... just more leaving than coming in
ErosionAccretionStatic Equilibrium
General Coastal Processes
Downdrift
Direction of
Longshore Current
Coastal Structure
Direction of
Longshore Current
Erosion
Deposition
+5’/yr+8’/yr
+4’/yr+3’/yr
-2’/yr
-2’/yr
0’/yr
-1’/yr
Source: MORIS: CZM’s Online Mapping Tool
Longshore Sediment Transport
Longshore Sediment Transport
Longshore Sediment Transport
Longshore Sediment Transport
Longshore Sediment Transport
Longshore Sediment Transport
Google Earth Engine: Timelapse is a global, zoomable video that lets you see how the Earth has
changed over the past 32 years. It is made from 33 cloud-free annual mosaics, one for each year
from 1984 to 2016, which are made interactively explorable by Carnegie Mellon University
CREATE Lab's Time Machine library.
Longshore Sediment Transport
Google Earth Engine: Timelapse is a global, zoomable video that lets you see how the Earth has
changed over the past 32 years. It is made from 33 cloud-free annual mosaics, one for each year
from 1984 to 2016, which are made interactively explorable by Carnegie Mellon University
CREATE Lab's Time Machine library.
General Coastal Processes
1.3mi
Perpendicular Transport…….Blocked
input
Seasonal VS Long Term Erosion
Seasonal VS Long Term Erosion
Seasonal VS Long Term Erosion
Seasonal VS Long Term Erosion
Seasonal VS Long Term Erosion
Seasonal VS Long Term Erosion
Seasonal VS Long Term Erosion
Seasonal VS Long Term Erosion
Coastal Processes: Why they matter
•70 –80% of MA shoreline is eroding
•Erosion rates have increased since 1950’s
•Erosion is not steady…punctuated by storms
(layers exposed can cause slumping)
Coastal Processes: Key Points
1.Erosion of glacial landforms is the MOST important source of
sediment for dunes and beaches in Massachusetts.
2.Wind and waves then transport sediment.
3.Without erosion and then longshore re-deposition there would be
no beaches.
Coastal Processes: Key Points
1.Erosion of glacial landforms is the MOST important source of
sediment for dunes and beaches in Massachusetts.
2.Wind and waves then transport sediment.
3.Without erosion and then longshore re-deposition there would be
no beaches.
Thanks for contributing sand
to our coastal resource areas
Thanks for contributing sand
to our coastal resource areas
Thanks for contributing sand
to our coastal resource areas
Climate VS Weather
Weather is what conditions of the atmosphere are over a short period of time, and climate is
how the atmosphere "behaves" over relatively long periods of time. https://www.nasa.gov/mission_pages/noaa-n/climate/climate_weather.html
Anyone younger than 40 has ONLY seen
rising temperatures EVERY year
(Shaw et al., 2002)
25,000 yr ago
400’ below SL, ~1 mile thick
By ~ 15,000 ice was gone.
11,000 years ago 6,000 years ago Present Day
Glacial History
December 2013
Global ↑↑↑↑↑↑
↓↓↓↓↓↓ Massachusetts
State of MA Guidance
State SLR Guidance
State SLR Guidance
2
0
1
3
2
0
1
8
State SLR Guidance
2
0
1
3
2
0
1
8
Carol1938
10 year flood will be every other year
(10% into 50%)
Changing the return period of flooding
Changing the return period of flooding
1.3’
500 yr → 50 yr
100 yr →10 yr
Hurricane Sandy
We got lucky !!!
http://www.heraldtribune.com/
8
9
10
11
12
13
10/29/2012
Predicted high tides at Sesuit Harbor for 2012
2’
0.1%
Hurricane Sandy
Battery, NY: 9.5’ surge
Landfall >300 miles south,
we still got 4½ feet surge
Low Tide: 6pm
http://www.heraldtribune.com/
0.1%
Hurricane Sandy
Battery, NY: 9.5’ surge
Landfall >300 miles south,
we still got 4½ feet surge
Low Tide: 6pm
Peak Surge: 5pm
4½ feet
High Tide Surge: 2½ feet
http://www.heraldtribune.com/
0.1%
Hurricane Sandy VS Nor’Easter Nemo
Low Tide: 6:00pm
Peak Surge: 5:00pm
4½ feet
Low Tide: 3:30am Peak Surge: 2:30am
4¼ feet
Sandy
10/29-30/2012
Nemo
02/08-09/2013
Nor’Easter (January 2018)
High Tide: 12:30pm
Peak Surge: 12:30pm
3.1 feet 1/4-5/2018
Nor’Easter (January 2018)
Hurricane Sandy (10/29-30/2012)
Predicted High WL = 10.3 MLLW
Actual High WL = 12.8 MLLW
Nor'easter Nemo (2/8-2/9/2013)
Predicted High WL = 10.0 MLLW
Actual High WL = 13.0 MLLW
Nor'easter Grayson (1/4-5/2018)
Predicted High WL = 12.1 MLLW
Actual WL = 15.2 MLLW
Max Surge: 4.5’
High Tide Surge: 2.5’
Max Surge: 3.9’
High Tide Surge: 3.0’
Max Surge: 4.5’
High Tide Surge: 3.1’
In Boston, a storm tide of 15.16’ was recorded which beat the record set by the Blizzard of 1978 (15.0’).
SL has risen ~4.5” in the
40 years since 1978….so
SLR is the reason the
record was broken!!!
Nor’Easter (March 2018)
Max Water Level: 15.16’Max Water Level: 14.54’
Still 2’ of surge 5 days later !!!
Flood Event
Waves
Diff = 0.6’….. But 0.5’ is predicted tide
Nor’Easter (March 2018)
Nor’Easter (March 2018)
6,000 years ago
11,000 years ago
(Shaw et al., 2002)
400’ below SL, ~1 mile thick
Shoreline was >200 miles offshore present
15,000 years ago = No ice
Sea level has risen for tens of
thousands of years…it’s not stopping
anytime soon, and it’s projected to
accelerate.
Regarding storms…we’ve been
lucky for a long time.
Need to plan/adapt “while the
sun is shining”!
Erosion & Flood management is
going to become even more
effective as costs + dangers ↑↑↑
http://www.heraldtribune.com/
0.1%
The Implications…
Our Choices Matter !!!
2017 National Institute of Building Sciences (NIBS) study looked at 23
years of federally funded mitigation grants provided by the FEMA, EDA
and HUD and found mitigation funding can save the nation $6 in future
disaster costs, for every $1 spent on hazard mitigation. Original 2005
study had 4:1 ratio.
Global Local$$
Questions?
Greg Berman
Coastal Processes Specialist
Woods Hole Sea Grant | Cape Cod Cooperative Extension
gberman@whoi.edu | gberman@barnstablecounty.org
www.whoi.edu/seagrant www.capecodextension.org/
Extra Slides
Greg Berman
Coastal Processes Specialist
Woods Hole Sea Grant | Cape Cod Cooperative Extension
gberman@whoi.edu | gberman@barnstablecounty.org
www.whoi.edu/seagrant www.capecodextension.org/
Overwash : Storms push sand across
the island and into the lagoon area
beyond. Barrier `rolls over on itself.‘
Barrier Migration
General Coastal Processes
Sea level rise
has been
occurring for
thousands of
years. During
this time barrier
beaches have
migrated
landward
through natural
coastal
processes and
have avoided
“drowning in
place”.
Evidence of Coastal Processes
“Transgressive” = a beach migrating landward and upward,
covering the water body or salt marsh that lies behind it.