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HomeMy Public PortalAboutIdaho National ForestFOREST INSPECTOR December 28, 1940 Written By: Julian E. Rothery I was assigned to the Idaho Forest July, 1910, first as Acting, then as Forest Supervisor, and served until June, 1912, resigning to enter private forestry practice in the East. At that time, the Idaho Forest, and nearby Forests represented the greatest wilderness area in the United States, a practically unbroken mountain mass, stretching from Snake River Plains to Canada, and from the Montana line to Oregon. Roads were few and poor, in trails hardly more than trappers, blazed ways. I had a clerk, S. C. Scribner, afterwards Forest Supervisor, and but recently retired, that was the office force. Five Ranger Districts, Meadows, McCall, Paddy Flat, (Roseburg), So. Fork, and Chamberlain Basin, under Rangers Adamson, Dawson, McCall, Walter Gaekel, Narren Cook and Ted McCall. That was the field force, with a few guards mostly old -time packers and mountain men. Just about the time of my arrival the great forest fires of 1910 broke out, swept the Brundage Mountain and Fisher Creek, Lick Creek areas in a terrific blast. Fires over in the Chamberlain Basin country were practically undiscovered, perhapsanly the next season were the scars found! The most interesting experiences were fighting fires, and the long trips into the interior summer and winter. I usually figured about 30 days in summer to go to Chamberlain Basin and Middle Fork and return, and one or two winter trips about the same. One interesting experience was the descent of the South Fork Canyon on foot from the 'Wagon bridge to the mouth, with Ranger Ted McCall. I afterward took the late E. A. Sherman down thru the same canyon. As far as I know these were the first and perhaps the only descents of that wild canyon. Page 2 - Forest Inspector, Written By: Julian E. Rothery Historical events; the building of the railroad to Meadows and the passing of the old 4 -horse Concord stage that plied from Evergreen on the P. 1. N. to McCall. The first motor car arrived in McCall while I was on the Idaho, but I did not see it. In fact I never saw an automobile in that country- horses or snowshoes or you stayed in the office -but I usually could find more interest and excitement back in the 'Upper Country." During my time Mr. Carl Brown came out from the South Fork to live in McCall - running the mail to Warren. It was later that he bought into the Hoff sawmill and started to build up the town's lumber industry to which a great impetus was given later by the extension of the Long Valley branch of the railroad. In the early days the Idaho was the last frontier - a rocky, snow- buried land with only a few old pioneers scattered away on the Salmon River bars, or in their prospectors' cabins. There were I recall, 5 or 6 murders while I was there - some oldtimer took the as or gun to his partner, or some intruder, tho it would seem the Idaho was large enough to accommodate all. Grazing was not very intensive, tho the allotments south of Warren were filled up. Beyond that there was no demand, it was simply too remote. Except for a few kicks from oldtimers who hated sheep on principle, we got along well. The timber had not been killed out by insects, and was generally green, thrifty and solit - quite different than the impression / received on a trip a few years ago where the effect of insect ravages was widespread and outstanding. Game was very plentiful, especially on the South Fork and Chamberlain Basin, elsewhere I suspect that there is as much or even more today, thanks to better laws and better enforcement. But in 1910 Chamberlain Basin was truly a game paradise - deer, eld ( the moose had vanished but a few horns could be found) while in the "breaks of the ' Page 3 - Forest Inspector, Written By: Julian E. Rothery Salmon" the sheep and goats were common. Some cougar, and numerous bear always added interest to a trip. I expect the Forest Service files will show the early improvements, an excellent hewed timber bridge on Lake Fork, the work of Ranger Dawson; McCall Ranger Stations - (usually about $00 for hardware, windows,and stove, and maybe a little time for a guardts work) - rough road and trails - that was about the extent of the improvements. Perhaps the most significant development in my time was the awakening to the necessity of roads, trails, and phone lines. The fires of 1910 burst out in a region generally so remote and inaccessible that no substantial effort could be made to control them, and in some cases there were never even discovered, and only the next year would a ranger find the old scar! I tried to push roads and trails - a wagon road up the Lake Fork and to the Lick Creek summit - trails down to "Tail Holt" and upto the South Fork Road - trails thru the Chamberlain Basin country, and into the more inaccessible areas everywhere. I probably struck the Idaho just as the last frontier was vanishing - by 1920 I suspect it was about gone, and today reflects an entirely different world. " HISTORICAL HISTORY OF THE IDAHO NATIONAL FOREST Fron many sources we have gathered a list of some of the early settlers prior to the establishment of the forest, and their locations. As far as possible we are listing the dates of settlement. Name Location -Date August Berg 1860 3- Fingered Smith Warren & Thompson Ranch 1861 Fred Burgdorf Burgdorf & South Fork 1860ts Leo Hofen Warren 1865 F. Schissler Warren 1868 William Bloomer 17arren 1868 Sim Willey Warren 1869 Norman Willey Warren 1869 Claude Raines ;;arren & Badley Ranch Solen Hall South Fork G. S. 1872 Henry Smith South Fork 1872 Warren Smith South Fork 18,16 Savago Mosher Ranch 1870 William '��darden Warren %ail Carrier 1881 Pringle Smith Copper Camp 1889 James Hand Chamberlain 1890 Pony Smead Dustin Ranch 1890 A. Nelson Badley Ranch 1890 Otis Morris Warren 1890 Bill Shorts Shorts Bar 1890 Charles Clay Riggins 1891 Thomas '.11eCall Fayette Lakes 1891 E. I. Osborn Warren 1871 Thomas Clay Burgdorf 1865 Thomas Cooper Goose Creek 1877 Bill Jolly Goose Creek 1877 Jack Howard i Howard Ranch 1892 Joe Wisdom Meadows Valley 1893 John Chamberlain Chamberlain Basin 1895 Jim Moore Campbells Ferry 1895 Scott Brundage Brundage Mountain 1893 Harry Donahue Chamberlain 1898 IV. A. Stonebraker Chamberlain. 189-0 John Ramey Ramey Ridge prior 1899 Charles (mettle) Mahan Ramey Ridge 1899 Charles Field Ramey Ridge 1899 Freeman Nethkin Badley Ranch 1900 F. W. Butcher Ramey Ridge 1900 China Toy China Creek 1901 Bill Yates Ramey Ridge 1901 0 i� Dad Thomas ; _ �_.' _::Ramey Ridge...' ^� 1901 Harry Fritzer Fritzer Rar_oh 1902 Jesse Root Root Ranch 1904 John Bemis Warren Calvin R.- Wh'te ?Meadows 1878 Sodie Wtite'LeVander•- lat white child born in Meadows Valley about 187,8 Wilson A. Williams Meadows Valley 18"17 Peter Karleskint 1st blacksmith Meadows Valley __..1888 Matt Farrell Meadows Valley 1888 Bsten Freeman family Meadows Valley 1886 1. .. .. .. o _ _.- :i..').. t Vii." {{ (t�'• 0 i� Origin of important names connected with the forest and areas adjacent theretot _ IDAHO - This is the name of the forest, named after the - -state of Idaho and Idaho County. Idaho is an Indian name meaning "Flower of -the Mountain ". - SHEEPEATER RIDGE - Named. after the Sheepeater Indians - used as a lookout point for them. WHIMSTICK CREEK - Named from the fact that there was an abundance of water witching willows in this vicinity. Prior to 1912 it was known as Lick Creek. CHAMBERLAIN BASIN - Named in honor of John Chamberlain, first settler in this locality. ° RAMEY RIDGE - Named after John Ramey, early trapper. EIGHTY -EIGiT RIDGE - Named after a mining claim staked out in 1888 by a woman from Seattle. VINEGAR HILL - .Named from the fact that during the Sheepeater War the Indians had the U. S. soldiers surrounded on this hill. They were without water and had nothing to,_drink except vinegar. SOLDIER BAR - It was at this place that the soldiers caught up with the Indians in the Sheepeater liar and waged a light battle. Harry Eagen,,a soldier, was killed at this point. There is a monument erected here to the memory of Eagen. SUICIDE ROCK - An Indian girl was supposed to have jumped from this rock, killing herself. The rock is located on ilonumental Creek be- low the mouth of Trap Creek. THUNDER 11OUNTAIN - Named from the thunder -like rumbling caused by shifting and settling of the mountain. b;ONUIENTAL CREEK - 'On this creek is a large geological formation resembling a monument. This formti.on is 68 feet high with a base 12 feet wide. A large rock rests on top. - DEWEY MINE - One of the first mines located in the Thunder Fountain area that produced any dividends., t - HAND _�EJJOWS AND CREEK - Named after James Hand, early- prospector and miner. Mr. Hand still has, holdings near Sheepeater Mountain. DEITNY CREEK - From Fred Denny, a settler on the Little Salmon River. HAZARD CREEK - Named after a trapper of the name of Hazard who lived at the mouth of the creek. - SHEEP MOUNTAIN - Mountain Sheep inhabited this mountain. The last one was killed in 1891. SHORTS BAR - After Bill Short, the first owner. THREE MILE, FOUR MILE AND SIX MILE CREEKS - These were named accord- ing to their distances from Meadows by way of the old road which used to go across the valley to the north. PROY941S CREEK - The Brown brothers used to run sheep in that area prior to the time it was used for cattle. FRENCH CR;�EK - A group of Frenchmen had and worked a mine on this creek about three miles above the present boundary. ELKHORN CREEK - First r_amed. Elk Creek due to the presence of elk in that region. In 1916 it was charged to Elkhorn Creek because there were already too many Elk Creeks on the forest. - PARTRIDGE CREEK - Berg, there were numerous ruffed grouse, which were called partridge. • RIGGINS - Named after John Riggins, an early settler. PONY CREEK - After Pony Smead, an early settler on the South Fork of the Salmon River. MOLLY'S HOLE - A deep hole in the South Pork of the Salmon River below the South Fork Guard Station. Named after �.,:olly Smead, an Indian woman who married Pony Smead. She usually went here to do s her fishing. ya SMITH CREEK - After 3-Fingered Smith, who first settled on the ranch now known as the Thompson Ranch. RAINES CREEK - Named after Claude Raines, who lived at the mouth of the creek. Raines was murdered by the Sheepeater Indians. ' 1 JEONOTT CREEK - Jeonott first built a prospector's cabin on this creek. SAVAGE CREEK - A man of that name was murdered at the mouth of this creek. CHINk CREEK - China Toy, a Chinese,- settled here. SECESH RIVER - PJamed during the Civil War, when the seceshionists left Warren and stopped on this river. POLLY CREEK - After Polly Bennis, a Chinese woman who lived at the mouth of the creek. ALEX CREEK - Named after Alex Beaton. MILL CREEK - Formerly there was a.mill at the mouth of this creek. BUP_GDORF - After Fred Burgdor£, an early settler in that area. SCHISSLER CREEK - The Schissler Brothers had a mine and sawmill on this creek. HOUSTON CREEK - Named after an early miner. BFMIS CREEK - After John Bemis, an early pioneer of the Marren mining boom. (/ SLAUGHTER CREEK - Merchants in `+arren went up this creek to slaughter their beef. SMITH KNOB - Named after 3- Fingered S, th, -who had a ranch at the mouth of Smith Creek. POVERTY FLAT - A family was supposed to have starved out here. NASTY CREEK - Named after a fire crew had all become sick from drinking water from this creek. KPASSEL CREEK - Named after a dutchman by th6 name of Krassel who was killed by Deadshot Reed. WILLEY CREEK - After pioneer Sim Willey. DEADTj%11 CREEK - An unidentified dead man was found here. GRAVE CREEK - There is a grave at the mouth of this creek. _. TAILHOLT CREEK - So named because miners came here to get small stapes in mining to go on to promote bigger prospects. PpYETTE•RTV M - Got its name from a French fur trader of the Hudson Bay Company, who was the first white man to establish himself on i the river, some time in the early part of the nineteenth century. EARLY SETTLEN:ENT3 Meadows Valleys The first cabin in Meadows Valley was the one at the mouth of Goose Creek, built about 1863 or 1861. The first settlers to come in with the idea of staying were Thomas Cooper and Bill Jolly, two ba.cl-telors who brought 50 to 60 horses in 1877• They built a cabin along Goose Creek, within 200 feet of where Henry Clay now lives. It is still standing on the Clay place. Wilson A. ;',iilliar-ts, a bachelor trapper and miner, was about the second in the valley. his cabin is still standing on the Charles Wallace place. He discovered and worked the Thorn Creek placer ground. C. R. "Cal" White and G. 'N. Jennings took up a place where the town of Meadows now stands, and by 1880 they had about 75 cattle and 150 horses roaming over the valley, the only cattle at that time. In 1880 the Osborn family moved to Meadows Valley, loading their ( household goods on packhorses and driving five cows. The trail they followed was much the same route the present road from Warren follows. The first winter they spent in the old Goose Creek cabin. The next year they bought the Jolly place from John Smith. In 1880 there were only four cabins in this valleys Williams, Cooper and Jolly, C. R. White, and Osborn. Later Yorks came in and homesteaded what is now called the Becker place. R. G. Stewart took up what is now the Henry rilson place. Charlie Campbell took up the ranch that is now the Circle C, and Bill Campbell took up the Harold Campbell ranch. A man named Martin took up the Byers place. Jeff Luce came to the valley in 1897, and in 1898 took up the place now owned by Carl Ratzat. The town of Meadows then had a store, hotel, saloon and black- smith shop. McCall and Vicinity: and 1.Irs. Yorke were among the first, if not the first, to take up a homestead near the Payette Lakes, upon the land now owned by the Blackwell Dairy. Tho;!ms 1'.!IcCall And family arrived at Payette Lakes on the first day of 'Aay, 1891. There were 12 wagons in the party, and it took them a month to travel from the Squaw Creek summit to the lake. -All but the McCall family left the next morning. Mr. and Mrs. Varner settled near Van_ Wyck, at the place named Thunder City during the gold rush to Thunder ':fountain. r' Thomas I,!icCall traded a team and wagon to. Sam Devers for his relinquish- ment of the 160 acres on a part, of which the town of McCall is built. Ben McCall, Albert Gaekel, Louis Heacock, and Arthur Rowland also took up 160 -acre tracts nearby. Jews harp Jack lived across the lake in a cabin. The first winter the McCalls lived in Sam Devers' cabin, which was about where the John Sackerman Service station is now located. Thomas and Ren McCall built the firs' 7..131 along the lake shore, about where Austin Coodman's property is now. The mill was burned and they later built a mill upon the site where the Brown's Tie & Lumber Co. mill burned in 1940. C. W. Llackwell, N. F. Williams, and Thomas McCall later organized a company and built a large flour mill an! enlarged the sawmill. They sold the business to Theodore Hoff's father. This mill burned and Theodore Hoff and Carl Brown built it up again. Ed McMahan, of '_Meadows, was the first storekeeper. He had his store in a building built by Thomas McCall soon after the stAxaidll began operating. 14cCall also built the Peabody hotel from lumber sawed in the mill. Thomas :.cCall was the first postmaster. The range was excellent in pioneer times. There were frequent wars between the cattlemen and the sheepmen, however, and both tried to prevent settlers from taking up land. Settlers in Long Valley and this vicinity posted armed guards at the Lardo Bridge and Smiths Perry each spring, to prevent the sheer and cattle from co -d.ng into the valley, the homesteaders taking turns at guarding the bridges and ferrys. Several deaths occurred dixrirm the range wars. The two Viard brothers were murdered by a sheepherder, and a herder drew his gun on Ben ivicCall not far from town when Ben protested a trespass. Game ims very plentiful, and even in 1910 hunting was excellent close to tovn. :ferny deer grazed between toxn and the Lake Fork Ranger Station. " ountain goat -I ranged in the Slick Rock country and in nearly all the mountains close to McCall. The timber was virgin and very good, but frequent fires raged and Brundage riountain has been burned off many times. It cost Thomas McCall eighty dollars and about an acre of land to have the Forest Office :roved from 'Aeadovis to McCall. Does :.ScCall built the first headquarters office (the .d.rug store now). Doss (J. D.) McCall was the first Forest Ranger in this district, and he was among the first to take the rangier examination. His Supervisor was Msjor Fenn. He built the first trail to Lake Fork, then called-Goat Lick, and the cabin there, then later the little cabin on Lick Creek biurmit. Doss and his crew built the trail down Lack Creek and the Red Bridge. The bridge was built in the winter, all the supplies for the men and some of the bridge material baing taken in with do- teams.- The creation of the Forest Service aroused a storm of both acclaim and protest, but the majority of the local people favored it and held Gifford Pinchot in high esteem. The Forest Service helped to stop the range wars and opened up the country for the settlers, building roads and trails, telephone lines, and other improvements. , i t. Warrens About the first of August, 1862, James Warren, described as a ~' "shiftless individual, a petty gambler, miner and prospector", - • organized. a party in Levu -istop to prospect the Salmon River basin, and in less than a month reported another rich find., The Warren diggings proved to be both rich and deep. In November four hundred men were mining there, taking out from $14 to 820 per day. Esti- mates of the number of people in the entire mining region during the summer of 1862 vr. -- from 20,000 to 25,000. t William Osborn was one of the early miners, coming into the settle- ment in 1861 Others were Gerhart, Charlie Breen, Bill Gallagher, Mike Blue. Ed Kerwin, Norman Willey (who later became the first governor of Idaho), Flag, Jenkins, George Riebold (who struck and operated the Little Giant ;:Sine). _1 Additional strikes, placer and quartz, the settlement grew in size until about height in population., were made around Y;arren, and 1880, when it was at its White men worked the placer ground around the hillsides where there was plenty of water and space for tailings. Chinese worked the flatter ground on Warren Meadovie where water-was less and a heavy overburden of 6 or 7 feet of dirt was difficult to dispose of and had to be carried off by nand. In such places often a trestle 20 to 30 feet high was built out from the pay dirt to where the tail- ings were dumped. On the larger d;ggln3s, 50 to 60 Chinese, lined up, each with a wheelbarrow, could be seen dumping over the sides all along the trestle at the same time4 In about 1880 there Pre about 600 Chinese in and around 'Marren. These Chinese had their own store, butcher shop, gambling place, and saloon. Their store ovined its own•packstring of from 10 to 40 animals, frei <;hting between Grangeville and Warren. Other business houses were George Deyer's blacksmith shop, George Church's hotel, Hotel Raymo, a livery barn, Benson's butcher shop, Benson and Frydenridge general store, Grastien and Berrard general store, and Al Ripsin's saloon (which boasted an organ packed in on mules from Grangeville). All supplies were packed in from Grangeville on pack horses and mules, over the trail through Slate- Creek, Florence, dozen to and across the Salmon River on a cable bridge owned and operated by Lloyd Carrey, up to French Creek, up the trail past whatlis flow Keys' hanch to the head of Fall Creek, down to Burgdorf and into 17arren. Another route was up Carrey Creek by way of Studebaker Saddle. Each store had a pack string of about 60 head, principally mules, which kept them in supplies. The mules were of good stock, weighing from 850 to 1100 pounds, and were expected to carry 400 pounds for 15 miles a day. Pack saddles were of the aparejo'type. In 1880 ,Marren boasted of two wagons, packed in on *mules. One was { the butcher wagon, and the other was owned by Mr. Osborn, which he used for hauling mood and ore. r� 7" In consequence of its geographical situation, as well as th—k short mining season, expenses were inordinately high. A Mrs. Shultz, Who moved her boarding house from Florence, charged three dollars a meal, which some of the men considered high. ,'v,hen she showed them that hairpins were costing her seventy -five cents a dozen, while h`r. Shultz paid '2.50 a copy for the mornin€ paper, they did not com- plain any more. Sugar was 32X per lb., butter 82V, flour 10�, beef lV- In the election of 1868 it was voted to move the county seat from Florence, its first home,, fifty miles southeast to "'Jashington in Warren's Camp" as an old record describes the place. Records of _the district court between 1868 and 1875 refer repeatedly to meet- ings at "the Court House, in Washington, Idaho County ",r An old map belonging to St. Gertrude's Academy Museum, issued by-the Ore - gon Plavigation Company and purporting to be a map of Oregon and Vlabhington T— ritory, shows most of. Piaho Territory and on it in heavy type the town of i.ashington with Richmond and Warrens in close proximity in smaller type. A map of Idaho publiphed by the depart- ment of the Interior in 1383 names the tovrn '01'ashington but ignores Barrens. Both of these maps are in error, according to the testi- mony of old - timers and. records, as by 1,377 there was no trace of the name of i ashington; the town was always referred to as Miarrens, or Warren as it is now called. The first mail into Warren came in on contract from Grangeville, one trip each creek. It was carried by packhorse in the summer and by snowshoes in the winter. Later the mail came from Yeiser, let,on two contracts, one from Yieiser to Indian Valley and the other from Indian Valley to l'iarren. The first Indian Valley contract was let in 1876 to a nrtn named. Kelly, who carried the mail from July to October, when he sublet it to Solon Fall, who carried it for the next four years. C. R. White of Meadows took the contract at the end of that time. The cabin at the mouth of Goose Creek was used as a stopover place en route. According, to French's "History of Idaho, "The first sar*-ull in ti -erren was built by F. 6chissler! and 'yilliam Bloomer in,1868. About the same time a five -stamp quartz mill vra§ installed by Godfrey Gamble, ;eater power being used. A second mill was built about five miles from iarrer_, but the quartz vein did not prove as profitable as had been erected." $18,000,000 in gold teas been taken from Warren. A gteam shovel was tried about 1898, br.t proved unsuccessful. A bucket dredge was operated in 1 0;, but for some reason this was stint cr:n. Since 1905 severe.l small -scale placer and quartz mines have been operated, and in 1931 dredging operations were again started. Since then two dredges have operated every year during as much time as weather would permit. I Cne of the highlights of that rough- and - tumble period in which Warren flourished is the account of Polly Bemis. At 18 she was a beautiful Chinese slave, smuggled into the Idaho mining ca;np. John Bemis, a Connecticut Yankee, had come west to make his fortune in Warren, where gambling houses ran night and day and great wealth changed hands over the green baize. He was a good poker player. Polly's master, a leader among the hundreds of Chinese engaged in gold mining, thought he was a good gambler until he met Bemis. He lost all he had, then offered to play for the ivory- skinned girl from Hongkong. The other games were halted and. the tense crowd of miners and gamblers looked on. Bemis von her, married her, and they lived happily until he died in 1922. For 65 years she lived on their ranch, until she died in 1933 at the age of 81. Another interPstir_g character was Cougar Dave Lewis. He was an active participant in the Sheepeater Indian Iar, and-for many years has been an interesting resident around the Warren district. He hunted cougar with the aid of dogs and was credited with killing more of these animals than anyone else in central Idaho. The decisions of the U. S. Board on Geographical Names contain the following entryt Dave Lewis Peaki a mountain near t ne Bernard Trail on the divide between Pioneer Creek and Soldier Creek, lat. 45 °3' N., Long. 114450+ W., in unsurveyed sec. 26, T. 20 N., R. 13 E., Boise meridian, Idaho national Forest, Valley County, Idaho. Naned in honor cf "Cougar Dave" Lewis, soldier, Indian fighter, pioneer$ and hunter, who lived about 5 miles north of this pea;: for many _. years prior to his death in 1936." Big Creek and Vicinity: r' Jamgs Hand first went into the Big Creek country in the summer of 1889._ He left Salmon :-ity for Chamberlain and went in by way of Yellow Jacket with four horses. He tried to go up the Middle Fork and killed one of the horses, then went do7,m the Middle crk and up Big Creek. He lost two more horses by rolling on Big Cret:' ;, then proceeded up Bib Creek to the mouth of Ramey Creek, losing his last horse about half way to the mouth of Ramey Creek. He took what he could pack on his back, including a rifle with a broken stock, and Trent on throvgh the Chamberlain : sin and Hand Meadows country, then out by way of the South Fork, following as close as possible to the Salmon River. Not until fall, when he arrived at the mouth of Carray Creek on his way to Florence, did he contact anyone. In 1891 he and Andy Eason packed back into Chamberlain from Lewiston. They stepped in an old cabin at Chamberlain that was supposed to have been built by the Hudson Bay* trappers and had at o_ze time been used by John Ramey. During September, 1891, there was a severe snow storm, piling up three feet of snow at Chamberlain. During this storm Mr. Root anri his ten -year -old son Jess came throvgh Chamberlain looking for a placa to set up headquarters for a trap line. They remained ou lower Chamberlain throughout the winter and in 1893 located on the Root Ranch. The Caswell brothers located on lower Big Creek in 1891, on the property now known as the Conyer Ranch and the Vallace Fanch. There were several old- timers ahead of Hand, as he found location 4 notices on mining claims dated as early as 1860 on HRnd Creek, and a group of locations and. claims close to the old Bernard trail near Moose 7Meadows dated as early as 1879. Ors August 18, 18;'3, he located the first recorded claim in the Beaver Creek country. This was a placer claim on Band Creek, and Ir. _land still holds title to it. The old fiend cabin on Beaver Creek was ?wilt by :-land and Homer Forbes f in lc >3, and the first hand.- cperated arrester was built on Cash Creek in 1900. John Osborn first went into the territory around Yellow Pine at the head of the East Fork in 1880 and is believed to be one of the first men to placer mine on wihat is now Sugar Creek. There was a small rush to Sugar Creek in 1887. ringle Smith had some claims at Copper Camp on Big Creek in 1r?89, and a Mr. ilud-dleson was in the country prior to teat date. E, Routes of travel were the old Indian and soldier trails from Big,Creek and Chamberlain to the Five "tile country. Most trails were to and from the north. Supplies were packed in from Leiri.ston, Grangeville, and Elk Cit-,T. Q i Big Game vas plentiful. There were deer, elk, *noose, and grizzley, black, and brown bear. Mountain sheep :vere about the same ::hen as now, but grizzley bear were more plentiful. Range conditions were good, with plenty of grass most eve:yvih re. The timber was *gostly green and.there was —ery little down timber. In September, 1 °S�, a lightning fire was burning at the head of Hand Creek, extending to Ramey Meadows, and Dead Mule `ountain. This same.: area burred again around 1900. The Cash Creek fire was started in August, 1900, by a smcker and burned over, an area of sore 1200 acres. It continued for -tlj -o months before it was rained out. <<- 1 f 3 0 0 South Fork of the Salmon Rivers The site of the South For]: Ramer Station was first taken up for a ranch by Solen Hall about 68 years ago. Then Ben Day (for about 40 years), Shaeffer, and Tory Care* owned it in succession. It was obtained by the Government fron Tom Carey by tripartite exchan6o, using stumpage purchased by Hoff & Brown in the sale of 4/18%3. Sylvester Smith, better Down as Three - Fingered Smith, took up the Thompson Ranch in 18,60 or soon after. Henry Snu.th, son of Sylvester, vas born on this ranch in 1867 and still lives on the South Fork. Sylvester lost the middle fingers off both hands while talking to a friend. He was resting his foot on a fence, with his hands rest - ing over the muzzle of his shotgun, when his foot slipped off the fence and hit the hammers of the gun, caus_ng the gun to fire. Solen Hall built the first pack bridge over the South 2ork of the ,Salmon, and it was from this bridge that Shaeffer, full of whiskey, fell and drowned. Shaeffer is buried on the high bar above the �f ranger station. Two packers, Bob - tailed (Hugh) Johnson, so- ce.11ed because his pack horses were all bob - tailed, and. Pete Dorsey were buried in candle boxes on the Scales place by the Indians. " - t" CUPY SElff - hc(;��1'dcU ' A: 67 RESIDENTS OF SA? i4��.d RIVUS 1910 to 1920 KA. c11 IuTED FEES 0 xr��t��ra BY VJ.4I,T��i G. ?��:.a:'�� 2 6 l , a u Jordan and Ja c;es P' C' FO PAYME N. F. s These two old bachelors lived on separate farms on the slopes of the Main Salmon, River. Jordan's place was inside the National Forest and James' a little farther dow:i, was outside. Those inside the National Forest could have the land surveyed and could file a homestead on it. This particular day I was at Jordan's place surveying it. There were no section corners so I first built a cairn cf rocks for a monument which I made the first corner also. I chiseled "1" on the roc ?: that I placed is the middle of the cairn. The next corner would be, chiseled "2" but w- Ithout a cairn: and so on. The farming land was alon- a little stream of water so his hcra stead was long in order to get the faring lend into his 160 acres. Compass bearings are taken between each t:ro corners. Then at the finish it must be z1?pped so the survey closes. In other words, the surveyor n.ist cone back as far south as he went north, and as far west as he went east. A little error will cause a lot of trouble. So the area is platted before he leaves. I stayed at Jord.=:n's that night. In the late afternoon there was a lot of felling and hollering do.m. the trail. Then James and his six burros carne into view. He had them packed with vegetables and was bound for the mining camps at Warren. He stayed at Jordan's that night. He started out in the cool of the evening and would go on in the cool of the morning. He did not unpack his stuff. He just took the loads off the burros. He said he was loaded with t��ma *:;es this trip. He could sell his whole load quickly at Warren and Zet back part :ray, then rake it on home the next day. He was a big loud gruff f��llo,,. It takes that kind to drive burros, V because there is a lot of yelling and rock throwing. Jordan and James were the best of friends. Jordan set a nice table of food - all vegetables. He raised tobacco and has his crop curing in an open shed. He smoked a pipe and offered me some. I smoked a pipe when I was too far away from a place that sells cigars, I smoked some natural leaf tobacco. Gee, it is pretty strong stuff. I didn't want another smo!ce for a week. I did_*i't go back there. My survey was all right and Jordan filed on his homestead. Polly Feaman ° She was known in ',Warren, Idaho, only as Polly. She was a small Chinese woman who was a nurse and doctor. She was tile only doctor the torm had, and doctored both whites and Chinese. There was a Chinese male population of perhaps 50. The main occupation of the Chinese was washing the tailin -;s of previous placer works done by a dredge. A man, working diligently, coiLid probably recover five dollars worth of Fold in a day. Polly was called to go to the main Salmon River to nurse a man by the name of Beaman who was very ill. He had a good farm near the river where he raised rr;any tr'1osr an old, bachelor. She went down and nursed iiLm back to h--a7.`. But Polly never cane back, she. just stayed there and became known as Polly Bea.an. Campbell He had a fine fang on a fl.;_t on main Salmon River between the South Pork. and Middle Fork. I stayed all night there one time. I didn't surrey. t`.aybe he owned the place - maybe lie didn't. tie had fruit trs;s and a fcw pigs. asked, "Where is your cow ?" he replied, "Hell, if I•had a cow I'd just as Weil o have ii woman. .ever would rpt ?w;�v from this -,lace". -The Salmon River there was wide and shallot:, and could be forded. I was a wide place in the Fiver. He went north out to Grangaville, to seU his stuff and get supplies. The Frank Smith Ranch_ On South For! of Sa.l r;xn iver It was the best ranch along the river. A good ford across the river was just above the ranch. Coning to the ford from the east -a traveler with horses had to unpack his animals; that is, he took the bags and bedding off and yelled. After a while a man in a row boat would come across and ferry- the packs across. -... Then the horses were led behind the boat. F;ven at that the horses had to swim. I have seen a horse that didn't wart to go; he wouldn't swim. He held his head up as long as he could, and then his head gent under water. Mhen he came up, he swam like the dickens and could almost beat the boat ashore. rM this time men in the boat had a rope on hi.m and rara dra Bing hi.m along. This was not a crossing that could be waded. The river narrowed just below this crossi.:ig where it flowed between two big flat rocks, and was perhaps fifty feet. wide. Mun I care back to this Forest as Suoarvasor in 1917, I foiLnc that a cable bridge was planned for crossing and the engineering had been done and blue prints made, and the cable was at the top of the hill. I studied those blue prints and found the bridge was to be four feet wide. Gee whiz! A horse with pack saddles on, was wider than four feet. I wrote into headqua�bers and got that changed. At the same time, headquarters agreed that the site could be moved to the lower end of the Smith Ranch. This would make the span fifty feet rather than two hundred feet. Smith granted permis -ion for the crossinIg on his land. The cable had to be put down to the river on a very steep :lope. That r:as done. I didn't do it myself; but I tared men and supervised the:a. The bifl heavy coils and the s;aall cables were put on a sled that we made. It :gas pulled by.two horses. 3 The country was steep but '.'3 sled would not slide by gravity all the way. We had a long block and tac!:1�: with men controlling the ropes a,-,d fastened to a tree. The sled went dorm in stages, sometimes pulled by horses and sometimies it would go without horses but always controlled by block and tackle. Then there were fires and other impediciments and the building of the brid. was dela,red. I was transferred to Salt Lake City. About halfway up the hill from the rivar was the Hayes Ranger Staticn. Across from Hayes was the Deardon place. I have written about these in other papers. Then up the Scuth Fork of Salmon Fiver was the Dustin Ranch, which raised hay and had sheep. Several owners had cattle along the river. One winter in 1 hea�-y snow they cut the fi. t ee 1 alo::g the river to feed the cows so th °y wool: not starve, but every cow lost the calf she was carrying. Then the W4111ev Ranch. lie could reise nearly all the things he needed to live on. He would not allow his family to leave the place. He built a log school house for his kids and held school in the :,inter. He was th3 teacher. He had Kids 16 years old before they ever got to outside country. Indian Flat Farther up th.- river was a nice flat that was an Indian camp. So,,,-,e one applied for a homestead and I went in to examine it. T4. Fry . . Their tepee poles were leaning cgai.nst trees. The `rounds were neat. _ iii- .::rcz tribe. A They were of the -- fire guard told me that he jaded across the river while the squaws were fis;:in-, to get pictlures of their cil"i�p. The scuaw�• came alter him so .fast with an axe a and clubs that he had to retreat across the river and dick riot get a picture. a 0 1 fiat. The canyons above all converged on this Flat. Later something happened to the streams below. Salmon did not come there • _. -- .-- +�.y''�aL ' �- �1�• �\ �17�t• K�. �i� .�u�ur±i3�•w�i�lYNi�.i.�w..__ _. Qt 12,z j The squaws caught the salmon on a bio hook attached to a thong, and then the thong was attached to a short stout stick. The water was clear an" the squaws would put that stick with the hook on the end under the fish and jerk. They had him. Dead Shot Reed He lived on a flat across from Indian Gip and higher up. I have been to his. place. fie hunted air. lions. He had on:; Mood hound with two mongrel dogs. He said one:' cog was enou Sh to hunt lions if he would gi•y e tongae and run. His vn fe was still a young girl even though she had-two youiigst rs. Reed had looked after her when the kids w,:re born. Thc:y were-wild, and mould ruii and hide whenever someone came. Probably they lived on venison. I never tried to find out. It was reported that he had killed sev ral men and was a dead shot, rassel lived on a place near Reed. fie was a squatter. One day Crassel rode a horse bareback up to :seed's front yard. Crassel had a gun across the horse. Reed shot and killed him right there. Reed covered 1�rassel with a canvas and left him right there. fie went up river fifteen miles or so and reported what he had done to the sheriff. The sheriff did not ever come in to look around. He would only have Reed'r, word for it any way. Reed had told the Sheriff that Prassell was at his place with a rifle across the horse. He said Crassel maneuvered tha horss so the rifle was pointing at him and Reed just shot him. g-rassel was buried right there. He probably was not even covered with canvas. KI " af1:+ F.0 IM Li . Iio was a pack }rrrrso. :ns j sc:c •a,^,n ull oa c nl I virs etartin:1 to -� throw the d !:pond. hAtph, Y:hon r -v.,,,r ,ho ::,nt - t.^jc;A n-, rr.Lning, kickizrLZ, aquaU- ng. La bue'r.*-id all over , t ?:a li -tlo tcv :n 01' ' ;cCall, Id ar e. I:o d=Pod tL-6 cep bod, teat .red the and flour, b t for :�.1e raaoon t w pac;.c bags stue< to VhV saddle. = vt•.a c vor, of rzteMs aaught fire and =oko ca^to yo-%x°-i Iv o" cf th9 b Lgs• I vond.cred ism he , ouid b .n 1'p. A crJU:: had gatr�,rcd - everyono yenod - thcy [;a 7o me advice •- it Vas r" for t}',tr. Ztvau a great cah:oitioZ a b:�wci.ng tars:r on Piro. It fun for mo rri � crt�ff rcwttarcd all over tho cnuek -r,l. V Y rad bougWr. t'na.c horso fiat, old J, -a c::l Tay lad a gazrl�t "zbrs ' on the olopas of tie £3ut: .tiro k:.,�."a �,© rag a>ad ��u_ e�t,�„y1e ; send stxarch©rri as. Toy packed ".ifs vu,:rt.ablas on rcrsobaek Out tO the irons nhere ho sold `„bars at a Good profit. 1b3 could not truot this horro to carry hin voe� e a e6, so usou his ass a sardia hcrs4<. T o horva, - ;oiald tuck and tarov. Tor off. T cu `icj- mould. do the 'rjorsa to a t:•aa, get a club w� ac -st h+zi, yoj�i•jarq' Rif T-j Xi.. Tb,' at every Y:h1ck. Toy could 1*,, -:n •ri.da S,as t4rco thei neat -of the eza , rnd h•3 ::0uld not bask arti, .amore. nn`vad YAm :.i Ti. i d-aty kn,aV 1,3-ma mans, b,at Tcl vld -d it a:: tl,, diz :ioa . «o:: d in C:.% :�sse. Z c'3 c' �� 4 rids Gi^.f i ':sad h. +� *. for a pact: her: a. E9 vottld st'arLd E'..ill. gala Pack bags, t:•g pac'% arl *L-,d twin; put on, brat Just a Cho do roes dv J fi.hrvmi ovor, ar.:.,-j ha O;:Zct go backlzg anti 'c wzl in;-,, aul d�- =.? over hing. Eo WGa a good ho: s9 in o e-y otkcr way, said X liked MA, ' irh , b hi+, 'apon a pL--I : p 2;�n x t� a.a rc adsr t o put, tr a pack on, x .� ouJ d 1 get a big c:�ab, ata: --4 at :mss h.ad a,Ld i;.;�'.k t.a ir, �.eLd s��'.rong tan ;::gu. Z didn,t strlkE hia, hit I would jcarp Lp and dova a little and tbn t1LLnZ3 said viro: "Ki Ti, darn you. You old co and co and Go. If you dO-at stand s'z.111, I'll i;caL t�:t9 livi::y r-,.o ' zLnd so oat of you. 14 Ti, ca aLr:nd vtill." A tar that I i!'jed riot tie his head. T co' d put khe pack on, tal:o mf tines tae the rcY3, cad ho voall stand as : --Z z9 aoulcl baT i . i i I � i i i r i 1 � i I i f i 1 i. " HISTORICAL' Q OW O UTTAFER HIDES FRaM THE WOW. 4 r Valter G. darn. Re tsta3 an old, man tith v,_ielrc rs. No one knew axrj other na:r,e than olf Whittaker. If h� sligv -qd. his :e it eras 1. i %itt.2er. fie would not tell hh re he c----e from or anything abcut his past. fie had come into this 3aLon Uver caWon, folind a small flat and stayed there. The flat :gas back rjd aT,,ay from comr.unication vith the outside world and could be reached only by horse tram. Afte.- a few years he made ail application to hnnesto;jd k&n place. I was assignad to rake the first uurrey. In Febr.=T, feed 4cCaZllruzd I set out on foot down South Form of Sal- won. T1vf,r to 3riakf; the sur; �%evl1. TIM Salmon Fivers are iti creep caryons; the nwbit -a i.izs aroand t)-.am are high and covered with deep snow at this time of ;rear. Tra =gel in wirri; ^r is by vniw shoes or siclis. if we folloxed th3 regular snow trail it Y-c ol.d be necessary to cli.n;h Ugh up over the mo,M- tK ir. and 'then t;ac<c darn r � ;airs. Tae homestead was on the main. Salmon gar several Iles up from the mouth of the Smith Fork. The Scuth For', fry iYl-r2rc S: a.th 1 s dace on dovin, vas in a box carvon and roported to be ir:pascablc. 7-- decided tr.�� r.al!. ttha -ov.gh it, or try +o. There was only a trace of snow on the `:oath Fork and there had been freezing weather. To stopped the first nip ht at [Frank S1n1t1h i sipi -.ce cn the South Fork. Frank & i.h 1sas a ,',t��vi��a.i_ fellow- acid told us rart1r wild males that night. Ze said xo could not !:.akf: it tlu-ough teat :Lapaalable canyon,, and not to try it. 0 ;yes, he fad be. nn throagh it, but re couldn-'t do it. He and a. man that he called Ji 3 it-ad core up through the cao yon one tire; it bras a cold whiter and P. y large icicles v ere i��nging ron. the high rocks. T11 -lay traveled up c =wyora without trouble for a chile, although there were high rock vialls on each silo. Suddenly there was a rock wall right in front of the *a. They ;iere boxod in and could go no farther. -Eut th4ey had to go on V rough that clay for magr reasons. Thera were large icicles r i` all. aro* -nd handing dov:-n fro:. 4 the high rocks. FY►mlly Ji-i said "Frank.. I'mI ganzie if you are; we'll climb one of them thar icicles." Frank said "Sure thing ". Alnd so they clingy bed, one of tip icicles ur) a ld out of tb1,� Lox c,u on and got on through. (i 71itli Fraruc said '' t)u t7iu .i£tlo,is cant do it. You are not as tough as Jim and 1.11 "You better rut t' it; You better go round." Asa t ^.,a °tght we were tough too, so the next mornizng '90 set out with Paici.s on ou:� banks. Frwraks Parting words to uJ were "Tile only chw,ce yc," folloe's have is to find those icicles and slide dov.a. 11,Dr€s, takc this rope ". 7 carried a nice Ita,rdymod Jacot) staff to be used to set tlie co;nr�ass eta whip: sjarveyln-1. I soon ffmind earzying a stic- in ,I)r hands �hiie cli hirng up and around gong the rocks was too much of a raadica,p, so I stuck it in a creviee of a rock and never v.er.t bas?: to loon for it a min. I could make a -taff out of a pine sapling a.ftor kind if we got there. It vas a box cz.uiyoa all ris;ht but 4:e didn't se any icicles 'Large enough to &liG?e down.. ?e Ce3 i1£3 to 8 FOCI:, big as a mllntain, J, tti ng into the rai -"r . To get over it, it would be nvc;ceseai to cl-Lmo t.ig-, urn into the deep sno -v. It looked lima: iairly rood ice iii t:C.e rivCr aloxig the rock, but the ,pater was open out in -tile current. The ice didn't appear btrong enough i.:o hoi.d a tray st&nc' nag, on his fe ^t. Zo tork off cur (back Packs. 'fed got doi.,n on his belly so as to prosent as mucri -surface as uossible to thu thin ice, and wiggled around in wiar;e fasriion. Iia ca: ricd the end of a small rope with hint Which I tied to the back packs and he pulled them across. Then I vent over ri.ggly belly fashion, and ,Ne were over the Borst 1xid place. ree stayed that night at the Cbat,ier !Fulton) place aL ono . South of the South Park. The only access to all of those places was by horse trails in summer. In winter they were snowed in. Fulton raised hay and cattle. ire v:as a great joker and a great tease. Vie.:e was a sixteen year old boy working for him. At breakfast use had large round hot cakes and s' rap. Fulton kept teasing the boy about souethinu that happened the day before. The boy had been trying to get a cow off a rock ledge and down to better ;:rass a "d had graboed her by tie tail. " -s i cn'' i ulton said "the cow turned q}aick ly and crawded Joe over t ^e rocks off the ledge, b-it he hunt onto the tail. Fia, ha, ha, if he wasn't always behind lake a cows tail, where vould he be.'' Joe dicial t say wWthing, just kept looking down, but lie couldn't take it any longer. Ee ju -roped up From the table, too{ his plate of rot cakes and syrup and plastered it upside down on Cie top of Fultoii's bald head and 1L." the tablo. hfter things siettled down a bit, iulton said "You know I like chat boy; he's tou b; ru: 11:1 r;et along.`' 71a were put sccross tiro jouth Fork in a boat, thc-:n v4alked up tale rain 6ai zon Auivcr for several :wiles. r4,e arrived at old `i Iitz.. .er's ho- uestead irl late aftoxrnoon. It vas a 'beautiful farm of atuut loU acres in the oo'v Voi 1 of ual-a= :Liver ca_ -nyoa. (illhitta.eAr -as a an of cultare. 11-e had a nice little cabin, c1can as a pin. on crie aide of the cabin ware !=-k solves extending along tMa; entire side from ceiling to floor. These sr�lves T -mre filled ;.ith the nest boons of scion--es and litarature, including a iai ge set of encyclo- pedia. in one cormr Y.ias a large d ctionar -Y on a t++e--1 stand. All these books nad to be p&cked In on horses. De vas interestad an latin derivatives of worda liked to talk- about �hc techm -1-- .l names of ;roes, bushes and f3jjwe s. , e appeared li; a college pxoi'essor. -wti.o Yips i; c;ased to have sc:sro;ne to talk to. L uondered if ha hay .d boco-me dishes t•) with tie xorld or pass 6-uj.t i of sm e crime and iias nidiii; araf. He marketed iii s prod-.tae in the s=orer time, on the north s:icle of the river, ;,a t ircg it out on pack horses when the rda.ter was 1--w enough so he could ford i,he river. 'Mien 'red i'aCai1 and i arrived ti,at evening -) after our walk from the lulton place, we t. ore tired and hungry. 1hittaker had a cellar well z; Locr;ed and prepared a fine dimer for us. 7.e all sat d7 n and Ted and I ate fast. As things were pa.sscd, we took generous helping's and were gobbling then dov.n. . I didn't realize To were eatin-, so fast until V hittaker said "I like the Tag the English eat - sl:r;' an-3 a 1cng -ttne. bev enjoy their food". I loo-",zed at Ted a; -je, Teri Io -'K-d 'at mo, h.It neither of had a word to say. Vie didrAt esit so fast fmm t'-lem on. Tho next day, r the hcn ^stead, nada a sketch man, and noted i.tif4:-:natzz,n for !a report. M, hile running the line, I saw seven muntain r , the t' ou -Itain side, and. only about 300 yards a °,ay. Ch-Sep a:"_'or.;; tlln- . QCs S O. hos stood still as statues. I Jumped and hollowed and waived my hat. I to 3et? t} r r',Ove3 a'e'ons those large rocks ')at they dial -,lot '- ":Ove. i Y:ad to stay Y:ith t,ro MrVeY 7. ae and in so doit t,, vent behind a bid; rock for a f r seaonds. r;-,.,cn i cage oilt on the other Vide, the mountain sheep were g ^:tv> z�ld I haver could see E °es on thEo main. It was strange horit gLlic.1y they co-aid disappear. Zn reiurrzi *.� u;, t:lrou „?� tee bow c:- .nyon, v:n cdiecovarOd that if %e would ollor, gx je trails rade by nomtain uthee and deer, there vas alT.fays a way tlxough even kwe 3.�znt go up into the snos sonetimes. lie found out that re co,.,Jd ; o anjr . ere a mmt:ntair> sheen could. Mo— a—titain s'.eep dont Juno off ,hose hi -11 rnckv '�l ices unle z? VheY arW pushed b fr ° Fear of so ot: =ing. ��fiiSTOnlChl, I 3!y Story of Hayes Banger Station. a'altor G. Mann. I had a years sunn; r of provisions in that fountain cabin. I had packed in from Viarren on horseback; ha.d 3 horses - packed my saddle horse and s$;i_U,:ed the nine rdles fronn :':arren. It took several trips. I had hired a ran with a four horse team and via on to haul the stuff from !:IcCall to �arren. f'e had :plenty of rice$ dried fruit, bacon, lard, flour, cannel'. -ilk and breakf ;st mush. 'No fresh moat of course. I w =as prepared for a long hard winder when all roads and trails could be sno -r:ed" in. I was taking tie district frog�% ..arren Cook who ras to leave in September. On one of there na.ck trips, 2 must have seer lOQQ grouse zs I crossed the sut1 t. I had a 22 rifle and shot and shot, but could on?v get birds. Grouse : �rill fly un into trees where you can pet a good sight on them, 2nt.t I couldn't hit. After I returned to the Station I tested tre pun and found the barrel was Gtvwe'_ on the stock. The grouse -were not there the next day. Hayes Bagger Station was headgliarters for the t-arren Ranper Dis- trict. : t is located on the slone of the South Fors; of 2almon ;fiver about four -Niles trr trail cm fro- the .��Ulver. It was four ^;files up the ottntain to the surr��it T.nere the wagon road crossed, then five miles to 'irarren. This wagon road was deep under snow in the rirter and vas then a dog trailk At the station g=as a meador of gild grass surrounded i^r pine trees and very steep mountain slopes. This readcw was the only nearly level spot on the .ahole mountain side up and dm-m the river. There were a few widely separated f'ar~ns down on the river. It vas a sficluded s of ci'f the trails; no one ever passed here. I never saw so =, y rattlesnakes as at this station. We killed it �I snakes on the doorstep, in the v;oodpile, rear the collar, at the hay.9tack and everywhere. A snake even stuck his head up through a knothole in the cabin floor. :hen riding a horse on the mountain trails, the ri.dor r -.cau =r� the Morse *�Uht be c?.ose to a sla:ka When v.1st a�i i js tie real x np v t xs�. The rider must not be unloaded =- t z r 1 ppe prat up hay in Jsl,.r and it was hat v:eather. 1 stripped do�;i� to pants and shirt. Then, the hay being, stacked, I .-rant on fire patrol up into the high mintry near Purgdorf hotsprings, but forgot rely undnrshiz°t and coat. I camped in a meadow above. Plurgdorf and t1, -,it night ice froze in the water b"cket. I neIrIYY froze:`'Q' I }Mould have frozen except that I had a yoanP Wife along v:ith rr?e. I went orT r rTntxaI -Leave une last tyro vreeks in September, t-)ut before going I packed hay fro!,i LVes to . Barren and stored it in barn. I tramped the ray iT1t0 burlap aacks and tied the sacks onto pack horses. I v anted trig :z there in t? :E7 Lon -when T cai�a }sac itiz horses oecause amen visas -"n a1Z nirrmu stop, and thore was no grass or horsefeed in :amen. T hen Z care b:,jck from '«cCall the first ;vast of Ccto�r, I camped one nitrht at Scaua:.' ea'cr.,�s whore tno grass for r-arses was dry and frozen. io one ever carried ruts in that cc-anti-y. The next night we were in ;arren. .i,e'1 time arr:i.ved in ari.,en I fo :Tnu that t1:e other Forest - ,anger had waved out and sto-j : -;ed and used tip all z hay do tLkt hu*1 :gr,� axles tired !looses didn't lv.ime a thLng to eat. I could not find a bit of horsef eed in the to +:T of = arren. The ranger lu7ea'= I hw.d packed the hay up titer e because he sw,., Lle doing it. I .,,as never so read in TV li3ze and if I could have seen that r4rger that night i mould tare scot .11 F1 sure. lkUes hanger Station was an awful place to spend the winter, etc" i.ally for a wo -man. It r as snvi +'pound on all sides and no cne evcr carte there. The coyotes and the cats would hwrl at ni ;=Tt. I shot at a pear frm the cabin door. 114ai;. care to the river once a week by, dog skid. On a Saturday afternoon I -would sr_-,-ra shoe down to tine river to pet the .mail and then back up to the. station. This was always the big day of the creek because ve would Let the Sat,wday 7vening, ^ost and maybe a letter of two. The work - I ,*as to do was to cut enough shakes for a new roof` on the harn. Teri ucCall,\ who was in charge of the Chamberlain Easin district, was wintering on the South Pork, and came tan to heir; we. Ve foursd a good shake tree rear the station, felled it and rived some shakes. bloci•:s would freeze osernirht and it took nearly all day around, an open fire to thaw the_:; out so they Trould split. We broke the froe and that was a rjolay until -Y +e wound g/p.t another one. ,P, Ci7.dn t ,Juke ve., y- nuuT% shakes. Ted :4cCal1 and I went up to V."ar-ren to shovel the snax off the Forest Service buildlnz;s. These were Ranger Station buildings - a cabin and a barn - but thev were not occupied. Ted and I marred a littl0 poker that night., ovor in a gainers cabin. Ted. Y cn a little rnon3 r; I broke even. I was interastcd in a chinaman who -vas in the ame. 1'e smoked cigarettes; he would draw on the cigarette but no -noke would ever co•ze out of his ^youth or rose. No rmoke mould come out. I was more interested in hir. than in poker. ,e wore on skiis and 'kn returning I zias to go on dc-,-,-n to the river be cause MY ,7afe vas there at Ted's house. From = *arren up the mountain to the surz:zit was five miles, all up hill. Vie put moccasins on c, <r skiis so we could climb zritho>>t sliding back. Voccasins are :made of bed ticking; they slip ever the hack end of skiis and are tied at the feet. At the sixT7dt we took Vie moccasin~ off and started on a slide dm7n to the river. It was a slide of eight miles on an old wagon road and there yore .. --nxLv curves. Teel sent ahead of me and vas soon out of sight. I fell a lot of ti- = =es when going around curves. Soreti yes it was nodessary to fall intGZtio:oally rather than take off into the timber if I was goin; too fast. I got a thrill whenever I would see a big hole in the snow where Ted hal fallen. I didn f t f col so bn d about fallin , Myself. One place where tLe old wagon road went away around a side canyon Ted had ?Aft it and cut across. I foi -o -vied his route off down very steep country. I fell and got caught in a cl rp of bullies, with W head down hill, skais uphill crossed and caught in the bushes. I had to get up and. onto -q feet someway. The feet would not core down under me. There viqs no one to help and I was a long way from home. jl�, feet r.rould not come out of th#� sr-iis - they were tied in, no claps. I crigglod and twisted and finally... nade it a little at a time. I %as just lucky that I didn't break a leg. Scour dough hotcal:es for breakfast. Oee, that was good stuff. I was transferred to the Fayette lat-ional Forest with he4adcpaarters at R-riett, Idaho, and had to le�,re the Fay *es s V tion in "reh, 1911. The whole country was deep under snow. See nA Trip Dorm out, of the Lorthern Snow ". Ir 1915, I cane back- to this Idaho "iational Forest. as Forest Super - visor. I had the pleisure of aNindoning the Haynes tiger Station, and making the toAm of a;arren the headquarters on the district. 0 HISTORICAL SURVEY OF TIE NORTH BOUNDARY FIRST TRY By Walter G. Mann It was a nice October day when Jesse Adamson and I went up the mountain from Meadows Valley. We were bound for the north part of the Idaho National Forest to run out and post National Forest boundary. We had two pack horses and one saddle horse. The supervisor had said to me "you will not need a - saddle horse because you and Jesse can "ride and tie" and we do not want any more horses than necessary ". So, going up the mountain, I was on foot. Jesse said to me "You better lead this pack horse until we get away from the Valley. He's a homesick son of a gun ". Up the mountain we went. My horse did not want to come; he surely was homesick. I pulled and pulled on the lead rope but couldn't keep up with the others; they were soon out of sight. It was a strange country to me, no trails, heavily timbered, and the mountain was steep. I wanted to keep in sight of that saddle horse the worst way so I would not get lost. I was new in these mountains. I was awfully new; it was my first trip. I pulled and pulled. I put the rope over my shoulder and pulled. Findlly I was all in - pooped. I slackened pace and drifted along and said to myself "By golly, I'm learning this country and wherever we get tonight that is where we will tie up- I hope there is some grub on this pack horse." It was the first and only time I ever pulled a horse up a mountain. After while Jesse came back to find me (or maybe he wanted the horse) and said "We'll turn him loose and drive him." Jesse Adamson was an old time Forest Ranger and never talked — never said anything that was not absolutely necessary. I rode the saddle horse a little while that day but walked most of the time. In that country, travelers with pack and saddle horses never stopped for lunch. They just made the ride straight through the day and stopped in early evening. That night we camped on the shore of a beautiful make. Jesse had killed a grouse during the day and I was.trying to be helpful and make good as a new Forest ;;anger, so I picked the grouse. There were so many feathers and they stuck so tight I could hardly get them off. Jesse watched me picking. lie got the wood and started the fire. I had finished picking the grouse and was cutting it up for the fry pan, and then he said "Tie always skin them." It was the only grouse I ever picked. We made our bed that night on the nice sand by the lake shore. The bed was nice and inviting after a hard day, but before morning that sand was the hardest bed anyone ever had. It would get into lumps which were as hard as rocks and the lumps were always in the wrong place. The sand crawls around and it crawls right into bed with you. IV advice is never to make a bed on the sand, make it up among the soft rocks. Next day we moved on. No trails. Jesse knew where he wanted to go and vie got there to the north boundary line. We camped in an old burn. Many old dead trees were standing. This night vie put up a tent. It looked like storm, and storm it did that night - wind,rain, lightning and thunder. Hard wind and rain continued all night. A fine mist came through our tent - it was an old one. Some tire in the night, among wind, rain, thunder and falling timber, something gave our tent a big jerk and the back carrie down and crashed in. The tent pole at our heads stood up. ,Ole didn't get up. 1:7e stuck to the bed. Finally morning came and the snow. No more wind. Vie got out of bed. ,'ie were wet. We slept together. The bed clothes were wet through. There was a little puddle of water right in the middle of the bed. A big old dead tree had faller, across the back end of the tent and mashed it in right at our feet. If the tree had fallen three feet farther over we would not have gotten up that morning. We made a fire close to the tent opening so we could get a little warm and so we could hold a fry pan over the fire and still be in out of the falling snow. Fried bacon was all for breakfast that morning. Then we caught the horses, left all the equipment, and vient straight off the mountain down to Little Salmon River where it was only rain. We met Ion ldathian, another old Forest Ranger, coming up the mountain to help us 1 post boundary line. lie all went down to Little Salmon River and got warmed lip and dried out. It was wonderful down there around a nice warm fire. We stayed at the Gotzinger Ranch a few days, but the storm kept up with rain on the River and snow on the mountains. More than a foot of snow fell on the mountains in that storm. One day we got our horses, picked up the camp, and the next day struck out up river on an old wagon road, headed back to the town of Meadows, which was headquarters. Boundary work was abandoned for that fall. We were bound for headquarters - two men on horseback with three pack horses and one man on foot. I was the man on foot because I was the ,young ranger and the one who didn't have a horse, and the one who needed experience. The horses were anx ious to get home and were soon away ahead of me and out of sight. I trudged along on foot, cut corners and walked all day. I had the experience then and knew just where I wanted to go. I arrived at headquarters in the evening, having walked about twenty miles that day without a stop. I laughed to myself and at myself as I trudged along. I knew what the two old tough rangers were saying to each other as they sat on their fine saddle horses. It probably -ras "He's new. Fie wants the experience. Let hint walk. If he doesn't get in tonight, he'll get in tomorrow night. He'll know better next time." I got the experience. I learned never to be out on a trip writhout a horse, and I knew all about this thing called "ride and tie ". I learned big things on that trip. I had a great admiration for these mountain men. There were no complaints; no cussing the weather; no cussing hard luck; no cussing each other. There had been a job to do under difficulties and they went at it and did the best their could. The job had not been accom- plished but on another day it would be tackled again. HISTORICAL KI TI THE �tJCKI TG HORSE. By YJ'alter G. Diann He was a pack horse. The pack was all on and I was starting to throw the diamond hitch, when away he went - bucking, running, kicking, squalling. He bucked all over the little totin of McCall, Idaho. He dumped the camp bed, scattered the sugar and flour, but for slime reason the pack bags stuck to the saddle. Then the carton of matches caught fire and smoke came pouring out of the bags. I wondered if he would burn up. A crowd had gathered - everyone yelled - they gave me advice - it was fun for them. It was a great exhibition - a bucking horse on fire. It wasn't too much fun for me with my stuff scattered all over the country. I had bought this horse from old Toy, a chinairan. Toy had a garden spot Fork on the slopes of the South/of Salmon 'tZiver where he raised vegetables and strawberries. Toy packed his vegetables on horseback out to the mines where he sold them at a good profit. He would not trust this horse to carry his vegetables, so used him as a saddle horse. The horse would buck and throw Toy off. Then Toy would tie the horse to a tree, get a club and beat him, yelling "Ki Ti Ki Till at every whack. Toy could then ride the horse the rest of the day and he would not buck any more. I named him Ki Ti. I dont know ghat the name means, but Toy said it is the dirtiest word in Chinese. I didn't ride him; I used him for a pack horse. He would stand still v,,hile pack bags, top pack and bed were being put on, but just as the tie rope was thrown over, away he would go bucking and bawl- ing and dump everything. He was a good horse in every other way, and I liked him. The I hit upon a plan:1ihen I was ready to put the pack on, I would get a big club, stand at his head and talk to him in loud strong language. I didn't strike him, but I would jump up and down a little and the things I 4 n said -were: "Ki Ti, darn you. You old so and so and so. If you dont stand still, I'll beat the living so and so out of you. Ki Ti, N(rstand still." After that I need not tie his head. I could put the pack on, take my time, tie the rope, and he would stand as still as could be. q HISTORICAL � Ana me comma (He Looked Like Jeaus Christ) 14LIter G V?Lt n T"t a z-, %4nreA V"St s 3 ar* Vis a flat about t!'-e size of a farm in the pper resin Sals"n �U*er ca. Won �md It was called Pitta Far. it lsaz -2utt.3 r t,�c�a?:rr, a rive —n- an t-atts had told same big tales about weing a rild rmr_ ing; t- z%rs ' eroded thmu ;h the bus s, hiding anti r»zr .g. l.raI.tSr C.;eskel, a forest r!esmr, had tri-d t--- fled it br the n =,,taineride -61 t..h !-r,wsss. Me parle horm., rA nd omd rays killed and hx hid to �' - %re;; up and re;trirn to headgiar#esrs. Then the Forest cr arri r raceive:d as for a rol, a3a of land for sa thema t"ad in they itf.► ".ier aVA --`!3 li"r C:a]aymn -,nd it vas Sip ed d to rakes a motes and taa =,'1) - nirnre -r of it kj d yuri es a re ic�rt. A- ;t r e�t:ait£�t'st.'�R all the rcmrs m!'ont the glaoa, i decided It ias Im. —ated a, few -iles hel_cm the mouth of Addle ?O-rk. I c`dee.S.ci- t'la -t I W m] d go d. Da --mapnntn*ment Creek to the river and then. 'F.aB, up riv-er anLi.l. I fnmd Batts Tkwo It trp ,. h, ti a t, clam of Jiu m, 3 91. 0, Vrvat _ ue t out from McCall., Idaho, rith saddi" Pnd nao!'': 'J•S►r-len And ;' rf-vS c !7ms P.2'i! y4l tt3 last a ?Yl#th. ?ot l` st rari,+ ewr^ Teti Vcfall and ;'s -rrezn 0-* ,J, Aped at Caw little ��ntng Urn of eror.rmd Mk -Su--It � Q," ft. hiFh) t;:'ET drab CiUlStod a;k-v'3s Vint thy: homes could walk on rss 4 ncrt tre z* th- rou4b, and xa it on din into ,n Je "* �!nnt, wtv- w.,13 a squatter, mre tAo k hi. rith is to watch our "ryes nhll, we ire' -a mo ut river, ~rose '*ot hmd rfmn the wild rM r! e^ he ham r. -ire *ut, nn inn. Ice said he taad'�:isYer-s, long Llevcx yore u 'rat an. ::ewer followed a trait. :tee sa:ld he was R}xckar. `"his evsntn we p.- -ared for a three days trip. Ve lea ldavea of 'hroad, Lehi ^h ^rn� czlled ban - hocks. t,s did rnt },nav Vm} rep vo%tl d s^e Arrymie a.) t'h trip so ve trwok a the ru j, -sly of sal{.., rice, bacon and bread- that was all. Iao also took chain, axe and some rope. 11,410no of us had bv-a to z-�ai t s iAr and 'Go didn't kmw what ksiud of a place it would b-- if we Ice d i t. Lt 0 a.U., 413 r'tD pacKs c ;,9 our tracks, ue st A'A out. Tile cony i of air *On iLty -ir is Steel) aad rooky- q'Id 41oknA, as do -op as ui•anst Canyon. it has many k1ree i rd I.ir," rock "„all s juLtjL j; : i rte . lb t:llo time of Year of ;,3.p;:% ratfp and thorn was no Aaz -' try walk along tka t :alv-•x eO., r)zen we •;nl cm.,e to 0.2a of t: r }se .; r .v,rll r rock valls, iL was necessary to go ar•our4d and over It'; cl.i-,j., of feet up aad than back dovin. ` 41j S F <rS r ".t,,Jf ^r aka o=,iti . v ere a brand of rattIctarjakes. i« l idn't arc a rat"VAssua'ke cn th,^s -rho ,9 `-r ip b -u'%-: Yia yore .afraid we mvild sce ans. tumeroas clu:rps of uus'Aes grer. a mig the roclzs axed it was neccSFAX7 &i ti u� s to r,olu nt t.hc, t.ur, te: -X ,il� cli ytsix, 1 ��2cng. t", e i9Ualc ter' =' a bush and ttcra could be a rattling : nuj:A, taad z-- v- S- z -Y--t vat would .l. - a locust, 3w varely' fa:Id "Jurip, a,-.0 dc.Filsw. !'a just as we:.i. h, Jva br'on a rattlesnake a..l ma-red uc Just as :,IU II. o cam ".11 to a rocl+- lr`all rm` irccls of feet L-1 l;ito sj rbtivv, out Intl th-- river. lt. li ookied like vs would h ava to C-1:11', a 11a t r.Al-e hi gtt to " , nom. °i' i4. There api. eared to to Placid vat#:r at tJG ba -e, W-id. if re 0(•01.d 7-a`re it ac-- ,—�i;.:a about tuo bcli.dmd fret Cif .v $cCuld horn biv3 to G'lit -b. c cep c e . tx) try tl e. T ater. Catir tick p:Ycks vm a Um head to L'It ?l, ::o %e dtcldr.d to '.us-- a raft. T, v v wa old log cnu . it on the s` ore. u G chzp a6f it in tvro; t i,-A Vie 'i.: ri logs 'LO,Rt!,c in {a o ,.:.l.Lddle rcr. -a -lz� h�f a t-.-o log rat amour �ten feet jotig, s c cut F li °ikb from a Crac for an oar and vi�rc `aady V, gin. 144�e toax cff all of c,tir clethes. Ted kfcCa3.I was the boatman. .1.'c strad:aled t, two at tlhm -car end., and put , i.- ' on the fral, V ond arJ pad-iled 1:cr,2,.tfi is fiUis style. Th-m he ca-8 back to `r_;; the man acrr,us. I ,Nac tho fir ^t to go and Straddlod the logs in front of Ted. tJ!,c- a vacs mro ". rmnt Giza wo tied th-ought. Ab:)ut hall` way itcros!! c-is log 9-a tnr! bobbing np mkll c!, wn ant ry,ir",,, to Climb over the other log. I wo111d 6'tift and 911-Ab and try to rids aixi stc kv can top. 'Fite bark was m^ ugh too, and rem+ -mber I v {aa raked. '¢rren wco::, 8t4j1dt:zjz on the shore, didn't help - °t4. -ra arr. P" lnup'hod. and ye3'ad iuid gavu advica, '1*ds P-�,l hi.iffbt Phift btxr•_ ., f +,�.�,��... ,.t? , pan we mere over. `fix ; %t ieae Conkla turn t4 rid t.+za lO C- ^nom and jf`ROqj z raft ,t o.at in the vAfeijja #' thed,Y then `-;l hing aril More 6o. 5' oe log on the ri -,ht 4ri.,74 to Crawl nvrr thq 30Z on the l.ax't. it €OU -lad t �G to #; were kx»zt ciiM; h3.aher end hi�►h? xf .> r. Ya avhs an axtra awr a t� cf rrt :.t =, e i t, I knew that rc>.rjyh scrwtc::tng t�.eir bare s c�. It vas spy t'ar't to �' = °i. I J11-med up, and d �d 'TmT f aad hollowed "'Udd a-, C eta+cay, grab ghat saddle howl tl)rn v_nr taes oz,t 1 i j. m e r J.i. ti'1,7 � • � i.3 .IV. !14 A t y e7ve t 4 ot.ior one cvA nt eZ . . 7,,e- A. �. �2a� ticitd^• i:te,'% s'c1ic1r f1v It and, =de the sho_^6, hit [+'-_r ro-ye vvs ?r r..j, no d++7 i thin TiSre:' r„th tiht3 logs. :kn 'ver-a ,n tt ram y '� Oaat, ngkod and o* r ecratchoa, WILL tt•e vicsre all x`t rh 'v and !11 a G ti e!a *:tire r4 a`jt ?t'a'! P t +7 3t t}terP, with n3. $l! is'ia.)( up rj.tiPr, Ett0p dn7 ! nee in a "vhi.te for a breathing to gigare out vo s`r. a 'vP Wvrr, P-M bo-e ve rf,�tld ap ~,I'o ch wild v�?� 1. xcr. A"t C3.. +'i4(t -F;e zirrl.'L"ed at a biv (Jpevilr4 in th^ car- on of ..'bout 1W ^crcz, id}: ck, j.,js ej)-ve ed wit,-, r rams a-nd rt tr<' . ' 1 tst be ��1 t3 -hZ'. �d. ^ �; r!wl i6i✓w KF�S �<a.' on 1LiiT t. := l*,)4lid qpp -t� ri..) i J2 �.i bl'n!tion. ` e ye!glbod Wid a �{ � t y .y,.4� � V - ht�l l n� 3d livid li stciacd' l i()P_1 n� t1'R is £ J7 -rl ► w4i 11 l ".two ' Gid TLplf, r f tC nt on a, h',a 4lwrjd yrrr.is oz. so and nt d *rd Fo r-- )l t. if you :k�vat ever c ud i., a decn carrr,n y „,1 kn w hem the cou _d is v,t:ified so zsoh that ever; thj,:g cat, j4ar it. Whila w--r+�rinr. ^,-r�r +whe flat :n th wo d acov>rod a wall I"rx-trath leading to a s ,all crt aek. li�e y-, jc_d i o °e ,1,7 : a followed *­he for :, tut I:.c feat and there 'vas ar. old li;g cab” D1 the boor sto(-d a man; his hno hieard us all the tom. .i�v aid riot s �,; Le j lst Eito Ic# . r^r_e str3ckk a 14di4h. Lo and bel :o3d2 In the duor*ay sto,,,-�d tritl ira TM of Jemis iGtrt.et, xe had 1,1 ; h-air, the 4ams w +.isk rs a;:d j*,3,ec, as Jr au avrra7.ls, but Christ kVoUtd T.-car overalls tockay. It vas an apparition. VA dial not move or ray a word. ve strata anevhar na,tch and told him wh* re were and oshat: sie ctme to d0- i'.e for tw�t1. �..zx aaic'= h� as tucker, ar -1 1-TvI ed ;! its. I ln: tsv j.cil ray he t.alke,0_ tdrtt be spas rot tesis Czriet ;;t. 13.1, L - "•'T I !,nsv that nor. L vaS and f-M v�-;1y. il;i sac .0 to `:''ar mire enn,t r, and ttt.js vss o? c- nan nicker himself. tie ras an ec itric old fellow, s"xr Md ►metes a was ragged and ax .s1Y like -12 ri n 1 > >,t, ';a j,�,d .fnd, ► t ► n face ark iiliskers just like th,v Pir:tczz s of Jemls Chriztt. had been pannier gold in the sa=dx at the revers a.? � t-it n .)w the rater rats too jdgh for earning gold. lie teas out of gmb. ,tll be bad t� cat rae s dried * -ptat, on a string har:41i.9 at tc� f�lacr:. i?af two rtr,�:ta th, *.e >;:,r ;end►t�x:e.dtcd of dr;.a , matt ? i vr) { a:ir, a t 1u r!Z owe rut ri.c-3 -yd ban nook bre." yckar was 4,,1a4 tO 't, with ag a.r!d I" sh *r" Qtr rice and bannocks. Ea saki they dr ie-u =, %t, was I-S nt Lin She -4r0. � pmtLce` rl 5.h" m4j xt t;it ti--Lt he kept tl .Y g o zlh-g,V voodthi -xXa so T de L. : !.k 4 lt� iS� t W '�3 iFi.a #a a .ti :i4p rG��7 , vooda7mx1 , a, -:1,r it ran !;^od. Them., r:nl.A b0C--t,0a-dS in two comers of „ s .t ,t >� ra'is covered ,i r a a rest. ti th our Clothes cap. Tod kept throwing Wines ©LCD.+ of t" mss ire t"'" tads but we real.;y slept 'roll. is one ic-ng, d.a7's 1' VII -VC••`ed the h.? �t�zaci, �. z�?. wi #,ta the belp of th$ other :ten, r. -t ;;Orrers) P-Ai'?t.0 t.ta!+ "abet, amn vade a sketCh .v.3p. ' 'h--ro v7k5 a best on tte bar'- of the rivAr VAt T;,-ey.e ' vaid seas his. It ras i! 4 n been li C6�l . meb V !i� Oii ta3ii +ii@ !?dE#'1` 5 e-.e st{'�.1. +Oiere. T),.!elcer eFiiu 'C` }:3d been $ ati i1 for a rai i rord mz"imv rax lr. t -fe ,y ffflred to pelt tie b,,,pt; in the water and take ng down to mr tr ses f ^r tan &111a.rm. F�-j The boat could never be hro'tght, hgck un. streen. The rrt_- -Ct '"1orr -,L2�, we ve --Tt► � t��Y3 boat, nailed she one side back, on, as jn,� c -jr ate, r-m, shorts benardi and a t tin the beat,. Was c.d., {;= n:r�:{1 tale Wid atrong It seas sgmre ended z,-ith end :cps securely fastened. The bottm was of fir floort -;t,. and double. At I a.n, we na.th,•d o-ir into the river. "lucke;r a. {i Ted i&Gall 2AT4 °'d the TI-`:t 1R aes lr!. - th'e, n,T that F:tvc!ter mild do ve I:$ in'a a good boa�.man and knzw the the river war roT -?h and the vavo s ►tore rtu,ning high. 7ater Bronl.d rp. ash Vm,_ ,:),gh ti`s crs.cl.« the side of the boat. The Jobs at hand for Cook and re rare to mil glatg over the cracks and 'bell vatsr. lnr the vRY xe zar, a Vl- n rrt1kint: al.on? r3ho'!'ee Mp �,ztd traveled tile smite dray co � elt ri7rry for 1tiv arsd r.iilp-1 rrrnr to shorn and tns?c hin in. Vie r1vPr3 -at high raster, IT *vn reset !Ue4er in the raiad-In of the st re-,, -1 than it is ralmn7c. th., s?�xo_ h lio -tt' "mvgt ':,e kept ja ,lie middle and on the oast of the n +irrent In pro?ro-mv. Ke had 3.aud tid 'Ln an eddy and t'�Ch ti,,te th^ nab' -n(%, l tried #,r} pet back jiz to 'U�� x1ci;,-'s19 of vh� stroxa the Current hit noa,L 3rk -3 4,z it back into the Oc "'Oy. It took several attests beform the boat vas WxGlk again on the I'lle 'Lx'avol:tr we h"d nicked Tr) Paid ?ae wat a ?e!!rblaun looking for a hits back hs c rrt� a large ps~ck "ntai_.?in several �rWc:s rations of hart flour, ce3irfee a ^d e#s h^ raid. Ar a ::t:;Q *.•iC ri le wa;q ctr €tnDP f t -!S x:,19" fit±!,. ,t to a >"AO."3t Om r he a !uFPer pistol; in'his pockti ; hn had a t'i.r crp, in h3,ee hAndr, he e nrrie, --i a coffee pct and s pararol, Ho had s1ip rani 'id etci F :,Own s tacky Cliff arid Gha souk of his p&rt�t vaz a n. tlreily c�eyns�. fi;hen as 1i7h %1e esmri wd the parnsnl, he m3litd :' Int would ynj+ eq if it ralnom? um we went into the b{v, r°pid,*% The bmat was riding the Barest of ' tiro 'wages » nose dcz n into the r?)r.v W nose htg�s olit of the imteer up and down - up and dot. he frees PM "?ash �-m9 ir..t:► the± best. kmcmr yelled 1ORang ors, ye.,ni oons of gzas!t, tit -n t,41 tho "4. ;3 ay tiR rr�`' �ee~p °t�MU hard to !;ice ri ght. , r���r, ^ :�i3 !ar:l to L_ left. ry gat to Fizz Ghat rock ". e Alld VIcn after a while ry uexe thm3 h and oul' into better vrater. There were more rapids ahaad but we hopad they* would not be as bad are that one. -s Ser[Aa.n vas seared. he d1dWt uant to go on. Fa begjred us to pull to shard and let: hl=a o t, maqy-ing s » ice. o. I dout r :att -to dia -- i get through rmWt m) ". lt4wkar said: "'Shut up. Tie might Cevver gmt to shore agala ". I raid W a %j t,h,-4#0 00 .r co vo;; a --d, bai? n:star." lVal tcwA eater be did. I rAa just as acas ed as he ras,' but dzdn O t. dara admit it-. :�a arrived at olur as :,p .4ue.. tv,:� ::.o -ors after startup. prat with the boast. to had cave "..rl the came dish: nce that had firers ns fif#,ee7 NT. ra ors fOOt. The SsrbLaa rec-, varc :i °:-,x, hl e frigint. We fixnishesd hln vitlt a iu rz Lemi_s V :4 t _ -4t: any boo -s in the mit, and 04 dorll thO Car -x-011 1-10 gent. R ,mn who had stayed to va::ch our ho°jcs and c mp, had cau=,=zt =Be bie tine d the c, , .p fart= b ar t Y it d ;in �cker ��e�rred to be a - ±r�Lty go--,d fcl.3m a ter al..:. Tie cat his izirr air- trig.:. -od his his ers. pia didn't loo h, ?11—:a Jctjs Mrivt a:3y more. !ie follcw`d o4ir outi It the next dal as we went back aray from the river, vo he ecul.d grit a : cv., acre hot meals. rU pwe him proAs ors mmilh, to last him to Slrnani vihere he raid ho was gairwg. I have.. ronderdd if he tad his sack of gold F itr bif4 Then, he W d us 1.hl0 ` t was not hiss it ?r lonied to anoth- cr fall m . 0 Weil, Vre *acre t. iii ►: s. The summy : s rade. TMv EMM G? T-FIG.' RUCKER STCRZ- One Ca:; iri ulzitcr a mart arrived in Gran.-c.viaes on snow bh*"a and toll! yam sheriff he h3A1 killeet P- run up on the main :aalmon '&116 ar-d dropped hiz 1% ,tiver, 'le tvaid 1* ix tied a rock to )As n-d — a bi-z hold in the river, 1,4 offered to to ...a the E;herifl' back in tt,.ere and show 'hiLl-. lie said t1he r. 1"d said his cane R;ieker. This 5= and cx r had been jx"-tcern in r,!anning gold a1v Bar. Suddenly Rzla-kor T-PrAt 'mrseeky picked up zn axe arid vaid "This bar is too crowded, frcu num on there iv room for only one% T%m ptxtotor rutraatp.d f,!'.St buu on c2mm --,Iwkc-c with the axe. '21"he partner grzC.-bod tds gun wrld, It., t-o-,PA b* A loag, hand- vintor trip on v*)w far the shceLff to Co% frcrx Or,,mg-3ville to 3euts fir, and 'then: there waald be no tiore --v t ba hall given. vo Vie sh rif f d.! 1d iot go. A d 1ld m-m .1. ieker is still. '-w-med In the x1mr at bliv Llutts Bar. 4 Weiser National Forest Supervisors handwritten list 1906 - 1957 Yale Forest School News - April 1974 Julian E. Rothery Publisbed Vuarterly by the Yale Forest School 11umni Association Vol. XXXV NEW HAVEN, CONN., APRIL, 1947 No. 2 JULIAN E. ROTHERY, '08 ��17-i/ 9 22 YALE FO f REST SCHOOL NEWS Julian E. Rothery, Retires Julian E. Rothery, 'o8, is retiring from the Forest Service this Spring after 39 years spent in many fields of forestry work. Rothery was one of the class which turned out a goodly number of men who put in their active lives in fores ry  , E. T. and R. E. Clark, Pod Millar ,Ind Indiana Miller, Joe Fitzwater, R. C. and Jesse Hall, Harvey MacMillan, Thornton Mun- ger, Barry Moore and Rutledge Parker, to mention only a few. Born in Massachusetts, Rothery gradu- ated from the Sheffield Scientific School of Yale University in 1907, and received his Iblaster's degree at the Yale Forest School in 19o8. Fie was assigned to the Cachc National forest with headquarters at Logan, Utah, rising to deputy forest supervisor a year later. While at Logan he organized the forestry course at the Utah Agricultural College, to include special training for rangers from the western forests. In lyto, he was transferred to the old Idaho National Forest as supervisor. At that little this forest \Naas part of the "last frontier" with headquarters 4o miles from a railroad, and with no telephone or tele- graph, and \t ith the mails often long de- layed and irregular, all of which he says greatly expedited the general administra- tion, and gave him time to get out on the forest. Rothery hit Idaho, just as the terrific fires of 1910 did, and went through that appalling summer fighting fires. His report on the disastrous season is still referred to by the old timers as a Rothery classic  and fire plans lie drew then, have largely formed the ground work for the present intensive system. The pioneer life of this primitive wild- erness fascinated Rothery, and he \\ as never happier than when roaming around in that sea of, mountains, rubbing elb"ws with the trappers and prospectors he knew and liked so well. He made the first descent (and perhaps the last) of the "im- passable canyon" of the South Fork of Salmon River. and by saddle horse or snow shoes, explored the last far -flung corners of the forest, journeys which often required weeks of time. These Im- pressions were to stay with him all of his life, and later Rothery wrote up a series of short stories of the Idaho Wilderness which were published in the American iMl ifazitte, receiving honorable mention. The last story to appear in print was published in Americmt Forests, October, i935, called "The Building of the Papoose Trail." The book, `Rangers of the Shield" also published by the American Forestry Association, contains one of Rothcry'% earns of the Idaho country  "War Eagfc's War." In addition to short stories, Rothery found time to contribute generously to manv trade and technical publications. Resigning from the Forest Service in 191z, Rothery entered the consulting for- cstry field with headquarters in New York Cite. The next twenty odd years were to take him over most of the forest regions of eastern Canada, British Colum- bia, parts of southeast Alaska, and most of the continental United States. His explorations in the Canadian Labrador mapped many of the great forest areas of that land, some of which have since been developed for pulpwood. He compiled a map of the Colony of Newfoundland, which was the most complete of its time. (American Geographic Societ),, Geo- graphical Review. Oct. 1930 This map afterwards became the base for the United States army maps of the Island, when in the recent war the United States con- structed great airports in that Colony. For some years Rothery was consultant for the International Paper Co. of New York, and took an active part in building up their forest holdings in the United States, Canada, and Newfoundland to a total of more than zo,000,000 acres which was calculated to be sufficient for a sus- tained yield of over n,000,000 cords a year. Later he became Vice - president of sev- cral timber owning subsidiari, s. and Presi- lent of the Southern St. La\\ rcnce Forest I'rfrtcciive :Xssociation, and \%as instru- mental in revamping it to a ; ry efficient fire i rotcctive organization. operating over a large area of tinibcd.urds in the rugged Gaspe Peninsula. In i9 ;5 Rothery re- entered the U. S. Forest Service, attached to the Washing- ton office as inspector in the Division of Timber iN/tanagemctlt. He treveled in all of the Regions, specializing in timber valuation work, and has written numer- ous articles on the appraisal of standing' limber, some of which appeared i the Journal of Forestry and others aver distributed in mimeograph form His services were sought by other Bocci unenl departments in v;duarion cases, ati he is rccognircd as pnc eaf the outst.inding authorities on timber valuation. Rothery maintained an interest in edu- cational work, was at one time a member of the Alumni Council of the Forest School and gave numerous calks before different forest schools and other ather- ings. Rothery is a senior member oaf the Society of American Foresters, a member of the Canadian Society of Forest En- gineers, and a fellow of the American Association for the Advancement of Science. His biography appears in "Men of Science," and "Who's Who in America." ' While surveying a town of land in Maine, in ioi8, he nut and later married Jean Allan of Dennysville, whose great, great, grandfather had been granted the land in return for his services to the Com- monwealth of ' Iassachusetts during the Revolutionary \VaI-. Rothery always maintained his vas the best job of sur- veying he ever embarked upon. They have a daughter, Ann. Many foresters can recall the hospitality of the Rothery home and that his wife could still laugh at his collection of yarns about prospec- tors, trappers, sailors and French Canadian woodsmen that he knew so well and en- joyed so much. Rothery has a snug; little cottage at Cotuit, Cape Cod, Massachusetts. It is located on the former estate of a famous New England educator near both the village church and library, which he con- siders will give him the proper back- ground. The land slopes pleasantly down to the tide, and commands a gorgeous view of beautiful Cotuit Bay. Rothery says his front lawn is two miles long, but he doesn't have to prow it. His name is listed in the Cape Cod tele- phone book, and foresters passing along Route 28 can easily make the detour into the quiet village of Cotuit, and find the lane to his cottage. A ship's bell is mounted by the front door, and Rothery hopes that passing foresters will find time to stop and give it a ring. He says he will conic in front the beach or nearby woods, and dredge up another tall yarn or two, as he still has a good assortment and is collect- ing more. Rothery has made a national and inter - nrtional name for himself as a pioneer in t I field of forest valuation and timber a, ;u" aisals, and for his exploration of li le -known sections of North America, 1).." ticularly northern Canada, Labrador ai d Newfoundland. He is also known as probably the best raconteur which the forestry profession has produced. His character stories dealing with western rangers, sheep herders, prospectors, south- ern negroes, French habitants, New Eng- landers, and many others are widely known among his great host of friends and acquaintances. Julian's literary con - 111butions of a scientific and professional flavor, as well as his western stories that h.ivc appeared in popular magazines, have caused many of his friends to request hint to write more. As a forester who knows and understands the woods in practically all parts of the United States and Canada, there are few who can equal him. Nelson C. Brown NEW DIRECTORY The members of the Council authorized the funds for publication of the new alumni directory, at their meeting on February zt. No guarantee of accuracy for the information to be contain :d there- in can be given unless each alumnus re- turns the blank sent him with full infor- mation as to his home and business address and his occupation. Many have not yet done so and this neglect is delaying the publication, the last issue of which appear- ed in 19i9. If the blank is lost, send in the above information without it, and do it now. 1-I. H. Chapman, Secretary HISTORICAL. P. C. fzr- - R S C S i v JftJ-7 7,-illiams, 4- June 20, 1969. F. Forest Supervisor, 7cCall, Idaho. Dear Mr. Defter: t4 Ae Hockaday has done a wonderful job! -01 History of Payette National Forest. I didn't write history of the Idaho National forest, but I did v.rite some incidents that I thought were interesting. Some of them have been published. If vou dont iant them, -%rod may throw them a,,-.-ay. Andy Casner was Assistant Supervisor the first year that the Thunder Mountain area was added. He spent the Y:' ,,o season over there getting information so the area could be put under administration. He is entitled to, a lot of credit for the first pioneering work. Very truly yours, WORK ON IDAHO NATIONAL .FOREST By Walter G. Mann , August -1, 1908: Regan work for Forest Service as Forest Clerk on Idaho National Forest at Meadows, Idaho. Henry A. Bergh was.the Forest Supervisor. Supervisor's headquarters of the Idaho National Forest were moved to McCall, Idaho in February, 1909. Nay 1, 1910. Appointed Assistant Forest Ranger., I "had charge of District No. 2, with headquarters at the Hayes Ranger Station, and mailing; address at lYarren, Idaho. There were no fire lookouts on the Forest in those days so the Ranger made fire patrol: trips ' by saddle and pack horses during the entire summer, returning only occasionally to headquarters at the Hayes Ranger Station. 1910 was a bad fire season, and some bad fires occurred on the north of the District and est of };arren Creek. There were a number of Chinese in Warren in 1910 who were washing the tailings of the old placer workings for gold. They made pretty good wages at this. The only doctor in the little town was Sam, a Chinese, -and he doctored all the white people around about with remarkable success. There were some great characters on that District -- rugged, tough, old fellows but whose friendship was true and something to be valued when once made. I knew many of them intimately but only by their common names. There were Missouri George, Deadshot Reed, Old Rucker, Three Fingered Smith, u;inchester, :'hitney, and others that I cannot rememb;x now. Every fall, Missouri George always fattened a pig on his front porch. I roumht a rack horse from a Chinese gardner named Toy, who place was on E the slopes of South „ork of Salmon River below the =ayes Ranger Station. - Almost every time I nut a pack on him he would stand still until I was ready to -tie the rope, and then he would buck and string flour, coffee, and sugar all over -the place. I found out that he bucked a lot with the Chinaman and Toy would •then tie him up to a tree and club him, yelling "Ki Ti" all the tire. I discoverer) that if I took a club in my hand at. the right time and said "Ki Ti" very ariphatically, the horse would stand still through all kinds of operations. Ki Ti was his name. The name is Chinese and I understand is a very bad word. In 1910 a forest homestead was'.to be examined and surveyed at Butts Bar on ruin Salmon River a few miles below the mquth of middle Fork, and I was assigned to the work. Ranger T alter F. Gaekel had tried to reach the bar in 1908 on horseback. He cot-lost in the wild country, one of his horses rolled over the cliffs and was killed, and he was forced to return with one horse after being out for three weeks. I had two Ranger Assistants who were 7arren Cook and Ted ZTaCall and set out from Warren, Idaho in June. Tie crossed Elk Mountain pass, 10,000 feet high, on crusted snow and on down through Chamberlain Basin. +e picked up Jesse Root and went on down Disappointment Creek to its junction with the ?. ;ain Salmon River. Sumer had coK.e in earnest down there at an elevation of 2300 feet. Our plan was to leave our horses and go up the river on foot, and Jesse Root was to stay and watch our horses until we returned. ..'.e did not know whether or not we would find the applicant on the land, so we took enough provisions to last us three days. These provisions consisted of several bannocks of frying pan bread, salt, rice and a little bacon. Our equipment consisted of. a pack sack for each ran and com -oass, chain, axe, and a small piece of rope. At 6;00 a.n. we started out. This canyon is extremely rocky and rough., and its depth is about 5,000 feet. l e planned to walk up the .river along the edge of the stream. The water was high so it was necessary to talk on large boulders at the water's edge. In many places the perpendicular rock bluffs extended out into the water and made it necessar: to climb high up hundred of feet in order to Set around them, only to come back: down again a short distance from where we started up. This was a rattlesnake country. Fumerous clumps of busheq covered the Cocky hillsides, and it was necessary to grasp and hold onto these bushes in order to met along and keep from falling into the river. Z- z- z- z -2,t, and away would fly a cicada, or locust as we called them, but it mi ;ht; almost as well have been a rattlesnake, because a fellow would nearly jump off the cliff an}nvay. TJe got alon;,, and t,e rattlesnates did not; -bother but those locusts surely made life miserable during the whole trip. Then we came to a perpendicular wall that seer?ed to be a mile hih, at the base of which eras an eddy in the river about 150 feet across. It -pas an a-.:£ul climb so vie decided to ferry across the eddy. A dead tree.al.ong shore was chop_ ped in two and the two nieces tied together with our rope and strap for the compass case, which made a ferry boat. A branch of a tree was procured for a paddle and we were read,! to navigate. Ted ?, -cCall volunteered to be the skipper. ',e took off our clothes and first sent; ob r• packs and clothes across and the skiff worked very smoothly. I was the first passenger and sat astride the two loeq while the skipper sat astride at the stern with the paddle. Yidway of the voyage the port log kept trying to change sides with the starboard log; in other words, one log seemed to want to get on top of the other log, and it required a lot of maneuvering for me to ride it. Ranger Cook, standing on the bank, thought it was a funny show and laughed and lau{-hed so loudly that the skipper was getting amused too and I had to threaten dire punishment in order to quiet the merriment. Ile steadied the logs and rowed across. The next passenger was Ranffer Cook. He was a little heavier than I, and when the skiff got about midway the two logs began to bob and teeter. Now it was my turn to laugh. Standing on solid ground, as I eras, it was really funny. This time the logs did change sides and, plunk, went the passengers into the water. There seemed.to.be an undercurrent and a whirl- Deal and the rangers struggled pretty lively for a moment but soon swam to shore on the proper side. Our piece of rope and compass strap viers lost with the logs, but we were over and on our way, e '4e walked all day along the river shore, stonoincr only a few minutes for lunch. At dark we arrived at a wide place in the river bottom which we thought miFht be utts Bar. use whooped and yelled, and the rock walls of the mountains echoed and resounded. Tte wandered over the flat area hoping to find a cabin because we did not carry beddin-; and it would be better if we could find a shelter than to sit up around a camp fire. There was a creek of cool, clear ester and a footpath. -:ie followed the footpath and whooped and yelled main. Then, close in front of us, was a cabin with a man standing in the door. V'e.said "How do you do ", but he stood still and did not say a word. Then Cook struck a match, and,4 U and behold, there was the image of Jesus Christ in the door, He wore overalls, it is true, but the same face, the same whiskers, and the same hair, asshov'm in pictures i of Jesus Christ. .7e were away out in the wilderness, in the bowels of the earth it seared, and -the roots of our hair quivered just a little. "Ve told hire who we were and .ghat we had come for, and then he invited us in. He began to talk, and he liked to talk, but his language ti�as not at all like Christ would use. `ie soon realized that vie were on the earth and tired and hunmry. There was not enouh bedding in that cabin for one man, but the four of us slept there, and slept fine too, regardless of t.-.e fact that Ranger 'iicCall kept thro:rin�� bones out of his bed (It had probably been a dog bed.). All Rucker had to eat, for that was the squatter's name, was a string of dried meat . and some salt. He was glad to get a share of our ban:-,ocics and rice. The meat was mountain sheer, he said, but the next day I noticed ;hat he kaot trying to shoot woodchucks so I decided it was .woodchuck megt we were eating. The next day we surveyed the clai:, and the third day -we started back. Rucker said ho. o.,ried a boat abort a mile dom %n the river aad that he had started to tear it to nieces but that he :could fix it u.. and take us dov�n to grin =' orses for X10.00. :'#e accepted the offer. This was in the days before ex^ense accounts, and we were paying Jesse toot X10.00 to watch our horses. Rucker-said ho had been boatman for the Gilmore & Pittsburg railroad survey which '­ad been made throughthe canyon. re reached the boat at 9 o'clock a.m. and found one side had been knoc'_1ed off. It was a flat botto. -ied boat .with end sweeps. ':ie nailed on the missin side with a rock and battered the crats. ': e -took aloe.{; sore small boards, sore nails _ and an old tin can. Rucker and Ranter ',icGall manned the sweeps. That was one thin„ gnat Rucker could do well; h4 was a boatzqa.n and knew the river. The river was rough, and the waves from the riffles ran high. It was the time of hi ,-h .eater. and it seemed that the center of the river was nearly two feet higher than the sides. ;a got into the center of the river and rode the crest, of the flood. Sanger Cook was kept busy nailinE; bats over cracks to ?,eeo crater out, and I worked like the dickens bailing water. Soon after we started we sa.v a man walking* alo.i shore and, havin` travelled the same route ourselves, we•?itied him and pulled to shore and took hire in ':.e landed in an eddy and it took several atttempts before we could get onto the crest of the :rater again. The swift current would hit the boat.and out it to snore. The traveler said he was a Serbian looking, for a homestead. He carried a back p_acir which he said contained flour, ham, rice and raisins and plenty to eat. Strapped to the pack was an automatic Remington rifle; in a holster he had a Luger pistol; in his pocket a tin cup; and in his hands he carried a coffee not and a parasol. He has slipped and skidded dorm a rocky cliff and the seat-of his pants was gone entirely. His bottom was as bare as could ;be. I asked why he carried the parasol, and he replied, "d+ell, what would you do if it rains ?" Just at this time we .vent over a series of rapids, and it eras necessary to make the boat ride the crest of the waves to avoid hittin• the rocks. It was a thrill that was far ahead of any roller coaster or scenic railimy in the world. The Serbian was scared. He•be—ed us to let him out. I told him that he might be spilled out any minute and the best thing for him to do was to diA water with that coffee pot. He said, "no, no, I walk, get throu& some time, I no want to die." But he dipped water and kept on dinpin�. We arrived at our cam-) and 'horses in just two hours' time after starting with the boat, covering a distance that had taken us 16 hours to cover on foot. Jesse Root had caught a nice string of trout in a side st :ream, and we had a fine dinner. The Serbian recovered from his fright (,`'e . were just as f7rightened as he was, but we didn't say so), and, after beine furnished a pair of whole overalls, proceeded on foot doom the rocky canyon. Rucker followed our camp the next day to get a few more hot raeals, then we gave him enough provisions to last him into Salmon City where he said he was going. He said the boat did not belong t:o him but to another fellow. It could never be put back up stream. Yes, and re gave him a hair out and clipped his whiskers. The survey we.s made. Mayes Ranker Station was isolated in winter, and had a year's supply of -provisions hauled to iiarren by tear and wagon and then packed there to the station. There :vas no wagon road into the station. The main i.teans of provisions vrere flour and bacon, bean,s rice and raisins. I papered .the inside of the cabin with old newspapers a_nd. took a new wife tl^ere to s -)end the winter of 1910. There were three feet of snow at the station. All traffic was by snowshoes or by dog sled. The mail we.s carried by do,� teaTa once a weak from Warren to F,dwardsburg, and once a week - I snowshoed to the trail crossing on South. Fork of Sall-non River where my mail was left at the Dustin lunch, and returned to the station that night. • In Febrixar•y, 1911 there was a homestead to be surveyed on the main Salmon river. Ted ^ :cCall was Ranger on the Chamberlain Basin District, and the two of us had to make that survey. There viere two. ways to get there; one on skiis or snowshoes up over the high divide and then back dovm to the river, or on foot, .ithout snowshoes,• dovm the South Fork of Salmon • River through what was said to be an impassable box canyon. 1,7e chose the box. _. =e stooped the first ni ,ht at the Frank Smith ranch on South Fork. That ni;,ht old Fran% Smith told us great tales of the impassable box canyon and advised against the trip. He said he had come up through the canyon one winter with a partner but they got boxed in and could not get out. The only way they could get out was to climb an icicle for thirty feet up over the ledge, which they did, but lie said he could i not do it, fie started out next morning any way. There are rock bluffs that jut.into the river, and we had to climb hi-h to get around and climb back down a,,?- ain. The weather was cold and the edges of the river were frozen so there was ice around these rock points. After climbing up and doom a ^*pile, we decided to take the ice. One fellow would lie on his belly and scoot around, and then the other fellow would slide -the back packs to him and then scoot around himself*. The ice was not thick, and the belly slide placed considerable surface on the ice. We got through all right before dark, and found the homestead of a man named Ludiwia. It was a nice little area on the shore of main Salmon _. River with great, high rocky mountains on all sides. Yr. Ludwig had a comfortable, one room cabin, and I was surprised to see one side of it lined with books, and the best books, an Encyclopedia Brittanica and a collegiate dictionary. He liked to talk about Latin derivatives of English words. He was ~,ell educated and living alone. I never could find oiit his past history or why he was there. In surveying; the place the next day, I saw seven mountain sheep not far away in the rocks. I yelled and tried to scare the:: but they would not move. The survey line passed out of sight of them for a minute and then they were gone. Tie made the trip back without climbing an icicle. I was transferred to the Payette National Forest.ix the middle of March, 1911. Deep snow still covered the whole country. The only way to get out was on snowshoes. I left my horses on lower range, sold provisions to whoever :Mould buy at less thani half price. The snow did not have crust enou „h so a man could walk on ton, and there was only one pair of snowshoes at the station. Consequently, my wife and I walked out the first five miles, both on the same pair of snowshoes. I had a back pack of about 50 pounds and was first on the snowshoes with my feet tied on. �5y wife stood behind rye without her feet being tied. I carried the back pack in front of me. We must both step at the same instant because, if I attempted to lift the snowshoe a split second before the wife lifted her foot, I took a tumble forward in the snow. However, we became adept because of necessity and climbed five miles up over the divide on the sane pair of snowshoes. After we struck the toboggan trail made by the dog teams, we could walk without snowshoes. ` We s „ayed the first night in Warren. Vie would, get up at 3 a;n. and, with the aid of a paluser, would walk in the toboggan trail. The snow in the trail would get soft by 3;00 p.m,, and the day's trip must be made before that hour. The second night at Burgdorf Hot Springs, the third night at Halfway House, the fourth night at :McCall. The next day I scent in the Supervisor's Office; turning in final papers and checking the Lud;wio Survey. After I had left the Forest the Forest Supervisor deducted two days' pay from my salary, one because I could have taken the train out at 7;00 a.m. the next morning and not reported to turn in records and reports, and the other because it -was a 31 day month. There rrere no travel expenses allowed Rangers in those days. Evidently the Supervisor thought that 9 miles the first day, 17 miles the second day, 20 miles the third day and 17 miles the fourth day was too much time to take to travel 63 miles. And so I was gone from the Idaho and worked on the Payette and the Boise as Forest Ranger, Forest Clerk and,Deputy Supervisor until 1917, when I went back to the Idaho as Forest Supervisor. This was in October, 1917. In 1918 I scouted over much of the Forest and decided on establishment of several lookout points. I can't remember all the names now but I know that during the next two years lookouts.were established on Brundage 1 ountain, Grani to "rountain, War Nagle, Sheepeater, Beaver :dam, and gomawhere near Paddy Flat, A road had been built to the Hayes Ranger Station. I had the pleasure of moving the headquarters of that Ranger to the to-vn of Varren where he would have more contact with the people of the District. 1919 was a very bad fire season, and the boys had not yet. returned from the War. Labor was inefficient and hard to get. Fire fighters who were hired and shipped in would stay only a few days and quit. The mountainside opposite Burgdorf Hot Springs burned that year. I left, the Idaho National Forest in January, 1921. During the three seasons that I was Forest Sup aryisor I had three Deputy Supervisors and six. Forest Clerks. The Thunder ?ountain area, consistin6- of 500,000 acres, was added to the Forest. A b a IVORK ON IDAHO NATIONAL FOREST By :falter G. Mann. August 1, 1908: Began work for Forest Service as Forest Clerk on Idaho National Forest at 1.ieadows, Idaho. Henry A. Bergh was the Forest Supervisor. Supervisor's Headquarters of the Idaho National Forest was moved to ;ticCall, Idaho, in February, 1909. 1.7ay 1, 1910. Appointed Assistant Forest Ranger. I had charge of District No. 2, with headquarters at the Hayes Ranger Station, and mail address at 71arren, Idaho. There were no fire lookouts on the Forest ir. those days so the Ranger made fire, patrol trips by saddle and pack horses during the entire seer, returning only occasionally to headquarters at the Hayes Ranger Station. 1910 was a bad fire season, and some bad fires occurred on the north of the District and west of ' '.'larren Creek. There were a number of Chinese in Warren in 1910 who were washing the tailings of the old placer workings for gold. They made pretty Flood wages at this. The only doctor in the little town was Sam, a Chinese, and he doctored all the white people round about with remarkable success. There were sone great characters on that District - ringed, tough, old fellows but whose friendship was true and something_ to be valued when once rude. I knew many of them intimately but only by their cownon na^-es. There were i:iissouri George, Deadshot Reed, Cld Rucker, Three Fingered Smith, Winchester, 71hitney, and others that I cannot remember now. Every fall, Missouri George always fattened a pig on his front porch. I bought a pack horse from a Chinese gardener named Toy whose place was on the slopes of South Fork of Salmon River below the Hayes Ranger Station. Almost every time I put a pack on him he would stand still until I was ready to tie the rope, .and then he would buck and string flour, coffee, and sugar all over the place. I found out that he bucked a lot with the Chinaman and Toy could then tie him up to a tree and club him, yelling "Ki Ti" all the time. I discovered that if I took a club in my hand at the right time• and said "Ki Ti" very emp'^atically, the horse would stand still throu.-h all kinds of operations. Ki Ti was his no-e. The name is Chinese and I understand is a very bad word. In 1910 a forest homestead was to be examined and surveyed at Butts Bar on main Salmon River a few miles below the mouth of Middle Fork, and I was assigned to the work. Ranger `,falter F. Gaekel had tried to reach the bar in 1908 by horseback. He got lost in the wild country, one of his horses rolled over the cliffs and was killed, and he was forced to return with one horse after being out for three weeks. I had two Ranger Assistants who were Warren Cook and Ted McCall, and. set out from Warren, Idaho, in June. 'fie crossed Elk lYoup_tain pass, 10,000 feet high, on crusted snow, and on down through Chamberlain Basin. We picked up Jesse Root and wend on down Disappointment Creek to its junction with the main Salmon River. Summer had come in earnest down there at an elevation of 2300 feet. Our plan was to leave our horses and go up the river on foot, and Tesse Root was to stay and watch our horses until we returned. We did not know whether or not we would find the applicant on the land, so we took enough provisions to last us three days. These provisions consisted of several bannocks of frying pan bread, salt, rice and a little bacon. Our equipment consisted of a pack_ sack, for each man and compass, chain, axe, and a small piece of rope. At 6:00 a. m. we started out. This canyon is extremely rocky and rough, and its depth is about 5,000 feet. ',Te planned to walk up the river along the edge of tl -.e stream. The water was hiah so it was necessary to walk on large boulders at the water's edge. In many places the perpendicular rock bluffs extended out into the water and made it necessary to climb high up hundreds of feet in order to get around them, only to come back down again a short distance from where we started up. This was a rattlesnake country. Numerous clumps of bushes covered the rocky hillsides, and it was necessary to grasp and hold onto these bushes in order to get along and keep from falling into the river. Z- z- z- z -z -t, and away would fly a cicada, or locust as we called them, but it might almost as well have been a rattlesnake, because a fellow viould nearly jump off the cliff any way. We got along, and the rattlesnakes did not bother, but those locusts surely made life miserable du.rin�, the whole trip. Then we cane to a perpendicular wall that seemed to be a mile high, at the base of which was an eddy in the river about 150 feet across. It was an awful climb so we decided to ferry across the eddy. A dead tree along shore was chopped in two and the two pieces tied together with our rope and strap for the compass case, which Yuade a ferry boat. A branch of a tree was procured for a paddle and we were ready to navigate. Ted McCall volunteered to be the skipper. :'Ve took off our clothes and first sent our packs and clothes across tAnd the skiff worked very smoothly. I was the -91- first passenger and sat astride the two logs while the skipper sat astride at the stern with the paddle. Midway of the voyage the port lob; kept trying- to change sides with the starboard log; in other words, one log seemed to want to get on top of the other log, and it required a lot of maneuvering for me to ride it. Ranger Cook, standing on the bank, thought it was a.funny show and laughed and laughed so loudly that the skipper was getting amused too and I had to threaten dire punishment in order the quiet the merriment. ode steadies the logs and rowed across. The next passenger was Ranger Cook. He was a little heavier than I, and when the skiff got about midway the two logs began to bob and teeter. Now it was my turn to laugh. Standing on solid ground, as I was, it was really funny. This tire the logs did change sides and, plunk, went the passengers into the water. There see -ned to be an undercurrent and a whirlpool and the Rangers struggled pretty lively for a moment but soon swam.to shore on the proper side. Our piece of rope and compass strap were lost with the logs, but we were over and on our way. le walked all day along; the river shore, stoppin7 only a few minutes for lunch. At dark we arrived at a wide place in the river bottom which we thought might be Butts Bar. '.Ve whooped and yelled, and the rock walls of the mountains echoed and resounded. e wandered over the flat area hoping to find a cabin because we did not carry bedding and it would be better if we could find a shelter than to sit up around a camp fire. There was a creek of cool, clear water and a footpath. ,'le followed the footpath and whooped and ,yelled again. Then, close in front of us, was a cabin with a man standing in the door. ',Ie said "How do you do ", but he stood still and did not say a word. Then Cook struck a watch, and lo, and behold, there was the ima,e of Jesus Christ in the door. He wore overalls, it is true, but the sane face, the sa=me whiskers, the sarne hair, as shown in pictures of Jesus Christ. ,Ye were away -- out in the wilderness, in the bowels of the earth it seemed, and the roots of olir hair quivered just a little. ,le told him who we ,were and what we had come for, and then he invited us in. He began to talk, and he liked to talk, but his language eras not at all like Christ would use. Ne soon realized that we were on the earth and tired and hungry. There was not enough bedding in that cabin for one rnan, but the four of us slept there, and slept fine too, regardless of the fact that Ranger McCall kept throwing bones out of his bed (It had probably been a dog be All Rucker had to eat, for that was the squatter's name, was a stringy; of dried meat and some salt. He was glad to get a share of our bannocks and rice. The meat was mountain sheep, he said, but the next day I noticed that he kept trying to shoot woodchucks so I decided it was woodchuck meat we were eating. —3— 0 The mext day we surveyed the claim, and the third day we started back. Rucker said he owned a boat about a rile down the river and that he had started to tear it to pieces but that he would fix it up and take us down to our horses for 610.00. We accepted the offer. This was in the days before expense accounts, and we were paying Jesse Root X10.00 to watch our horses. Rucker said he had been boatman for the Gilmore &_Pittsburg railroad survey which had been made through the canyon. VJe reached the boat at 9 o'clock a. m. and found one side had been knocked off. It was a flat bottomed boat with end sweeps. 'ie nailed on th.e missin, side with a rock and battened the cracks. ;Ve took along some sria.11 boards, some nails and an old tin can. Rucker and Ranger McCall manned the sweeps. That was one thin.- that Rucker could do well; he was a Good boatman and knew the river. The river was rough, and the waves from the riffles ran hir-h. It was the time of high water, and it seemed that the center of the river was nearly two feet higher than the sides. ?7e .-ot into the center of the river and rode the crest of t'he flood. Ranger Cook was kept busy nailing bats over cracks to keep water out, and I worked like the • dickens bailing water. Soon after we started we saw a man walkinq along shore and, having travelled the same route ourselves, we pitied him and pulled to shore and took him in. le landed in an eddy and it took several attempts before we could get onto the crest of the water again. The swift current would hit the boat and put it to shore. The traveler said he was a Serttian looking for a homestead. He carried a back pack which he said contained flour, ham, rice and raisins and plenty to eat. Strapped to the ?pack was an automatic Remington rifle; in a holster he had a Luger pistol; in his pocket a tin cup; and in his rands he carried a coffee pot and a parasol. He had slipped and skidded down a rocky cliff and the seat of his pants was gone entirely. His bottom was as bare as could be. I asked why he carried the parasol, and he replied, "'tTell, what would you do if it rains ?" Just at this time we went over a series of rapids, and it was necessary to make the boat ride the crest of the waves to avoid hitting the rocks. It was a thrill that was far ahead of any roller coaster or scenic.railway in the world. The Serbian was .scared. He begged us to let him out. I told him that he might be spilled out any minute and the best thing for him to do was to dip water with that coffee pot. He said, "No,-no, I walk, get through some time, I no. want to die." But he dipped water and kept on dipping. de arrived at our camp and 'Horses in just two hours' time after startinC with the boat, co'verincr a distance that had taken up 16 hours to cover on foot. Jesse Root had caught a nice string of trout in a side stream,. and we had a fine dinner. The tierbian -4- recovered from his frif�ht (We were just as frightened as he was, but we didn't say so), and, after being furnished a pair of whole overalls, proceeded on foot down the rocky canyon. Fucker followed our camp the next day to ffet a few more hot meals, then we gave him enough provisions to last him into Salmon City where he said he was going. He said the boat did not belong to him but to another fellow. It could never be put back up stream. Yes, and we gave him a hair cut and clipped his whiskers. The survey was made. Hayes Ranger Station was isolated in winter, and I had a year's supply of provisions hauled to 1'Varren by team and wagon and then packed them to the station. There no wagon ro9d into the station. The main items of provisions were flour and bacon, beans, rice and raisins. I papered the inside of the cabin with old newspapers and took a new wife there to spend the winter of 1910, There were three feet of snow at the station. 1Ul traffic was by snowshoes or by dog sled. she mail was carried by dog team once a week from 1arren to Edwardsburg, and once a week I snowshoed to the trail crossip.Q on South Fork of Salmon River where my'mail was left at the Dustin Ranch, and returned to the station that night. In February, 1911, there was a homestead to be surveyed on the main Salmon River. Ted i,:cCall wasanrer on the Chamberlain Basin District, and the two of us had to make that survey. There were two ways to get there: one on skiis or snowshoes up over the high divide and then back down to the river, or on foot, without snowshoes, down the South Fork of Salmon --liver through what was said to be an impassable box canyon. 7e chose the box. 3e stopped the first nir-ht at the Frank Smith ranch on South Fork. That night old Frank S^iith told us -reat tales of the impassable box canyon and advised against the trip. He said he had come up through the canyon one ,.,inter with a partner but they rot boxed in and could not het out. The only way they could r�et out was to climb an icicle for thirty feet up over t:he ledge, which they did, but he said wr could not do it. !e started out next morning any way. There are rock bluffs that ,jut into the river, and we bad to climb high to get around and climb bac� do•,m again. -7he weather was cold and the ed;es of the river were frozen so there was ice around these rock points. After clitbing up and down a while, we decided to take the ice. one fellow would lie on his belly and scoot around, and then the other fellow would slide the back packs to him and then scoot around himself. The ice was not thick, and the belly slide placed considerable surface on the ice. -,e got through all right before dark, and found the homestead of a man named Ludwig. It was a nice little area on the shore of main Salmon River with �!reat, high rocky mountains on all sides. 11r.Ludwig had a comfortable, one room cabin, and I was surprised to see one side of it lined with books, and the best books, an Encyclopedia Brittanica and a collegiate dictionary. Ee liked to talk about Latin derivatives of 0 -5- English words. He was well educated and living alone. I never could find out his past history or why he was there. In surveyin the place the next day, I saw seven mountain sheep not far away in the rocks. I yelled and tried to scare them but they would not move. The survey line passed out of sight of them for a minute and then they were gone. We made the trip back without climbing an icicle. I was transferred to the Payette rational Forest in the middle of .:arch, 1911. Deep snow still covered the whole country. The only way to get out was on snowshoes. I left my horses on lower range, sold provisions to whoever would buy at less than half price. The snow did not have crust enough so a man could walk on top, and there was only one pair of snowshoes at the station. Consequently, my wife and I walked out the first five miles, both on the same pair of snowshoes. I had a back pack of about 50 pounds and was first on the snowshoes with my feet tied on. Iy wife stood behind me without feet being tied. I carried the back pack in front of me. We both step at the sane instant because, if I attempted to lift the snowshoe a split second before the wife lifted her foot, I took a tumble forward in the snow. However, we became adept because of necessity and climbed five miles up over the divide on the same pair of snowshoes. lifter we struck the toboggan trail made by the do:; teams, we could walk without snowshoes. !e stayed the f irst night in '.7arren. *je would get up at 3 a. m. and, with the aid of a paluser, would walk in the toboggan trail. The snow in the trail would get soft by 3:00 P. m., and the day's trip must be made before that hour. The second night at 7ur?dorf Fot Springs, the third night at `alfww House, the fourth night at ?= cCall, The next day I spent in V e Supervisor's office, turning in final papers and checking the Ludwig survey. After I had left the Forest the Forest Supervisor deducted two days' pay from my salary, one becal.ise I could have taken the train out at 7 :00 A. m. the next morning and not reported to tern in records and reports, and the other because it was a 31 day month. There were no travel expenses allo,. %Ted :anrors in those days. Evidently the Supervisor thou ^ht that 9 *piles the first day, 17 miles the second day, 20 miles the third day. and 17 miles the fourth day was too much tine to take to travel 63 miles. And so I was -ore from the Idaho and worked on the Payette and the Poise as 'Forest Rangy -er, Forest Clerk and Deputy Supervisor until 1917, when I went back to the Idaho as Forest Supervisor. This was in October, 1917, 6—. a In 1918 I scouted over Much of the Forest and decided on establishment of several lookout points. I can't remember all the nerves now but I know that during the next two years lookouts were established on Brundage :,' ountain, Granite I.Lountain, ;'iar A;-le, Sheepeater, Beaver Dam, and somew1here near Paddy Flat. A road had been built to the Hayes Ranger Station. I had the pleasure of moving the headquarters of that Ranr-er to the town of warren where he would have more contact with the people of the District. 1919 was a very bad fire season, and the boys had not yet returned from the war. Labor was inefficient and hard to get. Fire fighters who were hired and shipped in would stay only a few days and quit. The mountainside opposite Burgdorf Hot Springs burned that year. I left the Idaho National Forest in Januar-7, 1921. During the three seasons that I was Forest Supervisor I had three Deputy Supervisors and six Forest Clerks. The Thunder = Mountain area, consisting of 500,00.0 acres, was added to the Forest, _q_ e