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Mile High Ranch - Salmon River IDA Shepp Ranch on the Salmon River 4 a.m. to outfit mules and hor- ses before the cowboys are up. She works in the corral and rounds up the horses. Mary Jane and Brother Bobby often ride all day back in the hills. Some days they take a nosebag lunch and go down the river in the boat where Al puts them ashore. After hiking three miles up the steep Salmon River hillside they catch horses to ride, then drive the other horses home —a hard day's work for the most sea- soned cowboy. MARY JANE first started rid- ing Arab when she was eight years old. He was young and spirited, worse than most to head for the barn when he wanted to go. One day he did just this with Mary Jane astride. "Turn him!" her mother yelled. White as a sheet, Mary Jane screamed, "I can't. I can't! He won't turn!" At the same time she jerked hard on the reins and Arab turned. That moment Mother and Dad decided the chestnut sorrel Ara- bian was the horse for their oldest daughter. He is still lots of horse for an inexperienced rider but looks quiet and docile when Mary Jane is riding him. Horse and rider share a faith and love. This faith and love gained its reward as preparations for the river trip began to take shape. Since Arab had to become ac- climated for the rodeo, he would have to be taken down the river at least five days prior to the events. * * r PAUL FILER, a physically tough guide, is considered to be one of the best boatmen on the river. Everyone agreed that his 24 -foot aluminum river boat powered by two 50 horsepower outboard jet motors was big enough to carry a horse -900 pounds of horsepower. Two days before the exodus Paul brought his boat to Mackay Bar. A ramp was built for Arab to walk into the boat. Boards were laid from the ground up over the back of the boat. Side railings were ham- mered into place. Everything ex- cept the boat looked pretty rick- ety. But it was as ready as it was going to be. Rodeo Eve was here. It was a sleepless night for the Tice family. Everyone was up early, pretending to be busy doing unnecessary things. Mary Jane bridled Arab and brought him to the shed. Father Al and Mother Mary made a big thing with the electric clippers and the final grooming of Arab's fet- locks and mane. Sister Nellie walked around repeating "I love that horse." Brothers Bobby and Pat proudly led Arab, stopping every few feet to pet and hug him. Finally, the bright red warm -up blanket was put on, Mother trying in vain to hide a big triangular rip which exposed Arab's left hip. Martare was ready to go. He was ready to 'leave the hills for the first time since he came 11 years ago. IT HAD been Mary Jane's show from the beginning and now it was still her show. She picked up a bucket of grain and went up the ramp, bridle reins in hand. Arab hesitated just a minute, looked things over, then with tail held high calmly walked into the boat. Rapport between girl and horse was so perfect that it brought tears to the eyes of everyone. No one said a word. Mary Jane turned the horse, wild -eyed for just a moment, so that he would be facing down- stream. Two pieces of plywood THROUGH DEEP Salmon River Canyon goes the jet boat, almost engulfed by the rapids, with Paul Filer at the controls. Mary Jane rests her hand on Martare's neck. The Arabian gave no trou- ble whatever through the "River of No Return" canyon. Photo by Walt Rubey, Shore Lodge, Mc- Call, Idaho. —24— were put on each side of the boat to form a stall reaching eight inches above the sides of the boat. Rope was secured around his chest and twice over his back. Bales of hay were thrown in front to protect him if he were thrown off balance in the rapids. Arab didn't realize this and nonchalantly nibbled first on the hay and then on the grain, completely unaware that he was about to make horse history. The ramp and boards for un- loading were put into the boat and it was shove -off time. There was a moment of consternation as Filer thought he had `got a motor" on a rock. Then smooth- ly out into the River of No Re- turn they went, rodeo bound. Mary Jane sat beside Arab, re- assuringly petting his neck. With Bobby in the bow of the boat, they headed into the first rapid. Arab pointed his ears and held his head and tail high, on balance, absolutely relaxed. They went through first one rapid and then another. Mary Jane's look of concern gradually changed to one of joy. Her horse was proving her belief in him. s . PAST TOWERING rock crags and sheer cliffs, the boat zoomed— rocking, leaping, swooshing, swirling, dipping, dancing, drifting occasionally in crystal clear calm water. They sped past white sandy beaches with fresh game tracks. They stopped at Filer's Shepp Ranch and glimpsed the historic cabin of Polly Bemis. On their way again, Indian relics and hiero- glyphics (probably stating that these waters are impassable) were just a blur. Through all of the rapids — unpredictable Mann's Creek, foaming Cotton Tail, tempestuous Little Growler, vio- lent Dried Meat, treacherous Chitum —it was no different. Martare was out for a joy ride. He seemed to be looking at the scenery, the rugged and rocky timbered canyon of the Salmon River. Once in a while he ate some grain or rubbed his head against his mistress's body to let her know he was glad she was there. Twenty -eight miles and two hours later the boat journey was o�sr, m s s ARAB and Mary Jane went to the rodeo. They paraded and raced. They ran the barrels and placed fifth on the judge's sheet. But they placed first in the hearts of the crowd. Arab had proved that you can lead a horse to water but you can't make him sink. Together they proved that the pioneer spirit still lives and there are ways to prove it. And Mary Jane, a teenager with a freckled face and a warm toothy grin, proved that Young America is much more than dope fiends and hippies. The Riggins Rodeo was just the beginning for both horse and rider. Mary Jane and Arab had had a taste of the excitement of competition, and they were literally "off to the races." In August they went to the Western Idaho State Fair in Boise where Arab gleaned a fourth in the Halter Class for purebred Arabian geldings. Horse and rider were learning new con- trol, new standards and new methods, as they were exposed to contests completely foreign to anything that had existed in their lives at Mackay Bar. More practice, more trial and error, and they began to place in the English pleasure and jumping classes. Arab had been a faithful per- former, loved and pampered; but he was too old to school in all of the new challenges Mary Jane was anxious to meet head - on. In 1969 she was offered a registered Appaloosa mare to ride in the I.O.N. (Idaho, Ore- gon, Nevada) Appaloosa Youth Show. MALHUER'S Painted Lady was beautiful and performed like nothing 'Mary Jane had ever rid- --26- e IDAHO COUNTY FREE PRESS is a weekly newspaper, founded June 18, 1886, at Grangeville, Idaho, and has been in continuous circulation since founded, published under the same name, and by the Olmsted family since 1924. The Free Press specializes in Grangeville, Idaho County and State news; feature and historical stories. Each week there appears a column, "Tempus Fugit," gleaned from the Free Press files, selecting items of interest at 10 -year in- tervals. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: In Idaho, Lewis, Adams and Val- ley Counties, $4.00 per year, $2.50, six months; outside the above counties, $6.00 per year; $3.50, six months. Per copy, 10 cents; 15 cents mailed. (Rates subject to change.) Idaho County Free Press maintains a complete job - printing department, well equipped with modern letter and offset presses, modern typesetting machines, large array of type faces and other equipment and material, manned by expert craftsmen. AVAILABLE from the Free Press are three historical books: "Nez Perce Indian War" and "Indian Braves and Battles" by Norman B. Adkison; "Sheepeater Indian Cam- paign" by John Carrey; Aaron F. Parker, founder of the Free Press; Col. W. C. Brown and George M. Shearer. Write for information and prices. —28— den before. So her parents bought the horse. Arab was relegated to young- er sister, Nellie, and brothers, Bobby and Pat —no less loved, but his mistress was off to big- ger things. With Painted Lady, Mary Jane competed in seven shows in Idaho, including three I.O. N. shows, two open Appaloosa shows at the Western Idaho State Fair, and at Enterprise, Ore.; and two local shows at the Highlands Saddle and Jump Club. Her winnings were 10 first, 13 seconds, 8 thirds, 6 fourths, 4 fifths, and 2 sixths — always in the top ten. Mary ,lane still went back to some of the old faithful horses she had cowgirled on in the Salmon River hills, riding Trig- ger, an Appaloosa gelding she had raised from birth, and a Quarter Mare Punk, owned by the Tices. When her own horses were back "duding," she bor- rowed Appaloosa geldings to show at 4 -H shows. Her versatility was amazing. She entered everything— halter, reining, stump races, stake races, barrel races, trail class, key- hole races, rope races, horseback equitation. Western pleasure, English pleasure, rescue races, and costume class. Her biggest thrill of the year came when points totalled to give her the high point award for 1969 in the 1. 0. N. Youth Shows, for youth 13 and under and for which she received a beautiful silver- mounted bit. s r . MARY JANE'S horizons con- tinued to broaden. Being ready for high school, she left Mackay Bar and home to attend Parnell Preparatory School at Pomona, Calif., a school specializing in Western, English and jumping showmanship for grades four through 12. Approximately 60 students are schooled on 125 Arabian, Thoroughbred and Quarter horses, with competition in shows each weekend. School officials were quick to recognize this young girl's com- plete rapport with any horse. They had been having some trouble with a `green - broke' Thoroughbred gelding called Music Center, which had been badly spoiled and needed ex- pert handling; so Mary Jane be- gan to ride this difficult horse. The big event of the year was an International show at the Diamond Bar Ranch in San Gab- riel Valley —a long way from the Salmon River hills. Mary Jane, atop Music Center, won third in Small Working Hunter (15 hands or under) under saddle; third in Pony Jumper; fourth in Pony Pleasure; seventh in Pony Hunter. In. the Pony Jumper Class, riders were not judged on class. When Mary Jane completed the last jump, she couldn't stand it any longer. She kicked her stir- rups free, heeled her horse and in Mackay Bar style "let 'er rip -" To the spectators' shouts of "Come on Idaho " Mary Jane `came home.' Her future is bright. It's a long way in more ways than one from Mackay Bar and the Riggins Rodeo to International competition, but this modern teen -aged girl got there —on a horse. —27— In the heart of a primitive wilderness— On a majestic free - flowing river — In the second deepest canyon in the United States— It's the place you'd like to be- MACKAY BAR LODGE ON THE SALMON RIVER WILD COUNTRY Mackay Bar Lodge is located in a beautiful setting on the Main Salmon River, where the South Fork joins. Here we have excellent accommodations for vacationers, fishermen, hunters and recreationists. Transportation is by airplane or by jet boat. Fishing, hiking, trail riding, back packing, boating or just relaxing. For detailed information on rates, seasons and license costs, call or write. MACKAY BAR LODGE P.O. Box 1099 Boise, Idaho 83701 (208 ) 344 -1881 FLOAT TRIPS July and August. Enjoy a float trip on the River of No Return. Relax and watch the rugged, primitive Salmon River Canyon as you drift along with the current. Experienced boatmen are in command of the Nylon Neoprene float boats designed for the Wild Rivers of Idaho. Camp out under the stars at the end of the day, swim, fish and look for Indian artifacts, pan gold, take pictures and enjoy the Primi- tive Area. Combine adventure with enjoying the scenery as well as watching for Big Game. The experience of a lifetime. Make your plans early, for the Main Salmon or Middle Fork. Most of our trips are five days, but we are flexible. FAMILY FVN Family Fun in Idaho's high country in Chamberlain Basin or at Mackay Bar itself. A peaceful mountain country, with stands of lodgepole pine, lovely meadows, scenic ridges and peaks. An ideal spot, accessible only by airplane or packtrain. Ride or hike to the mountain lakes — Flossie, Fish or Sheepeater, for rainbow and cutthroat trout or fish Chamberlain Creek at the ranch. Hearty meals and good fellowship all add up to a great vacation. HUNTING Big Game Hunting. Salmon River Country has them all. Elk, Deer, Bear, Big Horn Sheep and Moun- tain Goat. Our guides are the best in the business. Mackay Bar will give you a good honest hunt. Spring Bear Hunt -5 -days. Mid -April thru June. Guided 7 -day hunts —Elk and Deer. Everything is furnished except personal gear, licenses, guns and ammo. Saddle horses, guides, meals, camps and pack horses are all furnished. Guides dress and pack out your kill for you. 7 -day Special Spot hunt —We furnish camps, wood, horses and a wrangler. You furnish personal gear, guns, ammo, food, and you feed the wrangler. 7 -day Regular Spot hunt —We furnish camp, wood and we pack you in and out. You furnish everything else. GETTING THERE: We operate our own airplanes, licensed and approved by the FAA, with licensed and experienced pilots. Flying time from Boise to Mackay Bar is approximately one hour. If weather prohibits flying, or if you prefer, arrangements may be made to go in by boat from the end of the road, 28 miles from Riggins, Idaho. Class 10 Nonresident Big Game hunting licenses have been limited and should be purchased early. We hunt in Areas 19, 20 and 20A, in the Nez Perce and Payette National Forests. STEELHEAD FISHING Steelhead run the Main Salmon from late February thru March and run from October until the river ices up. Catch steelhead from 6 to 30 pounds; some are 40 -inch fish. Bring your tackle (or we'll rent you rod and reel). Drop in for a day or stay a spell. We know the river and we know the good holes. JET BOAT TRIPS In the early days, travel on Idaho's "River of No Return" was strictly downstream. The jet boat has that problem licked. We can pick you up at the end of the road, 28 miles from Riggins, Idaho and take you upstream through some truly spectacular country (and some pretty spectacular rapids) to Mackay Bar, or above there if you'd like. We'll arrange a jet boat trip to suit you. Just let us know what you'd like. 127 Mike Popovitch Dies of Gunshot Wounds Cascade News August 18, 1933 Volumn XIX Number 22 Mike Popovitch, 62, shot by Pat Reed on August 10th, passed away at a Boise hospital shortly after an operation on his spine which was shattered by one of the bullets which struck him. He was buried in Morr¢s Hill Cemetery at Boise Wednesday. Popovitch was a native of Servia and left no relatives other than a son living in Servia. Sheriff Wilson, County Physician R. C. Ward, M. D. and Coroner A. D. Robb brought Popovitch to Cascade Sunday morning by wasy of Warren after a-trail trip of twelve miles in which the injured man was carried on a stretcher between two horses. Sunday evening he was taken to Boise, but was unable to survive an operation on his spina to relieve paralysis. Pat Reed, 19, who did the shooting, was given a preliminary hearing before Tudge Campbell Monday morning and in view of the evidence that the shooting was done in self defense, Reed was exonerated and released from custody. From evidence produced it seems that tied, who was working for the Forest Service, was at the Willey ranch Thursday when Popvitch cc-me in drunk and wail supplied with liquor. He insisted on Reed drinking with him and when refused became very angry. After supper Reed had gone to bed, when Popvitch, who had continued drinking, went into the czbin, picked up an ax and struck, at Reed who dodged, the ax striking'the pillow. Reed then reached for his dun and fired three shots, two of which took i ect near the heart. " After the shooting, the Willeys, Reed and a neghbor cared for Popovitch and awaited t.es appearence of the officials. It is a well known fact locally that Popovitch became absol- THE HISTORICAL DUSTON RANCH on the South Fork of the Salmon was a gateway Into the rugged wilderness of the Thunder Mountain area. Here is a photograph taken early in 1900 showing a packstring ready for the takeoff into the remote region. • • Y W W W - Y Y W A TOWERING STRUCTURE of volcanic -fused lime and boulders is the "monument" from w h i c h Monumental Creek In the Tunder Mountain country gets its name. New Details Said Important T oV alleyArseaCentennialRole By EARL WILLSON YELLOW PINE — Additional details are now available which stress further the importance of the vast Thunder Mountain wilderness areas of Valley County as an historical attrac- tion during the 1963 celebration of Idaho's Territorial Centen. nial As publicity chairman of the Valley County Territorial Cen- tennial Celebration Committee, there has come to my hand photographs which add graphic accent to the history of that area. The area, chuck full of virgin timber and undeveloped mining resources of inestimable future value, is a challenge to the mo- torist who explores the rugged terrain adjacent to Highway 15 out of Boise. One of the photographs refers j to the Duston ranch on the' south fork of the Salmon.'. Though currently known as the Barkell place, it was, in fact, the original "Pony" Smead home- stead where that well -known character lived with his Indian wife and raised a large family before the turn of the century. Another photograph shows the unusual monument from which Monumental Creek got (its name. It is a prominent at- traction adjacent to Thunder Mountain, that weird promon- i tory from which the remote mining district derived its name. The monument is a volcanic con - glomeration of lime and bould- ers, towering toward t h e heavens like a lone sentinel — a symbol of the last frontier of enchanting wilderness that can be explored only by saddle and pack animals and experienced ' pac) ers and guides. Petition For New Bridge Circulated A petition is presently being cir- culated in McCall that would ask the Federal Government to allot sufficient funds to restore the sus- pension bridge across the Salmon river just above the town of Riggins. The bridge was destroyed some time ago by fire and since that time per- sons living in the river area above the bridge site have been forced to use a ferry, undependabel at all times and dangerous during the high water season. In former years the bridge was an important link in the McCall -Bur- gdorf- Riggins loop so popular with tourists who wished to see some oI the most spectacular road building in Idaho. The bridge was also of great importance to people in the WgTens- Burgdorf area as that, route was free of snow longer in the fall and earlier in the spring than is the route over Secesh summit. It is felt that if the petition car- ries a large number of signatures from this area the bridge may be rebuilt. Mrs. Nolan Deasey, who is staying at the Yacht Club is circulating the petition in McCall. Brad Carey, at the Annex Club, has the paper and local citizens wishing to sign it may do so there. The petition will be sent to Senator bworshak and to Congressman Goff. BOISE, IDAHO, SUNDAY M moats Make RoundTrip On Salmon Jet Powered Craft Conquer Rough Water On Five -Day Voyage By JA BROWN McCALL— Adventure stil lives in the Far West and group of Idahoans proved it las week. They made a round tri: by boat through the Salmo: River canyon of Idaho's River o No Return. Making the trip were Mila Hinshaw, former Boisean not working with Bill Burrud Pr( ductions in Hollywood; Mr. an Mrs. J. L. Driscoll of Boise; Ru; sel Hart of the State Fish an Game department, Lewistor Walt Rubey Mr. and Mrs. L. I Drew and Mr. and Mrs. Warre H. Brown of McCall; and crei members Mr. and Mrs. Al Tic jDick Tice, Sylvan Hart, Denni Thompson Carter Rowles, an Myrna Smith. . This is the first complei round trip taken through the beautiful canyon. Boatmen wit outboard motors and propeller have putsied back and forth c sections of the river for mar years. Test runs have been mac up the river in the Buehli turbocraft jet-propelled ,boat but this is the first round tr' ever undertaken and complete In two jet-propelled boats o erated by Al and Dick Tice Salmon River Sportsman' Camps, we left the boat landir at the end of the road just miles up river from Riggins. Tlirilled by the grandeur the rugged Salmon River rangy and the green of the clear % ter —a green always sought b never found by dress designe —we traveled upstream throui many rapids, some with sui fascinating names as Chitu (after the chitum tree), Dri Meat, Big Mallard, Ludwig, E] horn, Gunbarrel, Devil's Teel and last, but surely not lea Salmon Falls. Leaping and d ing through the white wab the boats defied the force th has held them back for ce turies. First Stop Our first overnight stop w at Mackey Bar, with an evem trip to Five Mile Creek to vi Sylvan "Buckskin Billy Ha Buckskin Billy lives alone in house he built, in clothes sews, cooks a fantastic assn ment of vegetables he raises, heavy copper pans he fashic and forms. In addition to this, he makes beautiful gi out of the mountain mahoga tree which grows along 1 river bank. We were delighted the n morning when Buckskin joix us in bucking the rapids as as Bargamin Creek where made camp on a fine sand b The ride was so thrilling tl Rivers Act to Open New Vistas for Outdoor Recreation .. . THE THRILL of white water boating on the Middle Fork of the Salmon River is evident in the faces of these three recreationists. Manning the sweeps is Bob Smith of North Fork, a river guide. More and more people are floating the Middle Fork annually. The gin - colored water is a habitat.of native cutthroat trout as well as a spawning area for salmon and steelhead. `Uses' of Big Came Animals Embrace Hunting, Photography or Just Looking EDITOR'S NOTE: The author is the leader of the Idaho Cooperative Wildlife Research Unit, College of Forestry. Wildlife and Range Sci- ences, at the University of Idaho. He is an internationally - renowned authority on the cougar, having conducted Years of field studies on the animal in the Salmon River Primitive area. This article dis- cusses the Wild Rivers Act and its effect upon recreation and wildlife. By DR. M. HORNOCKER Little immediate change will be brought about, as far as ef- fects on wildlife are concerned, on those rivers included in the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act in Idaho. However, very important effects will be felt in outdoor recreation in the future, some perhaps in the very near future. In discussing effects of the Wild Rivers Act on wildlife, I w i 11 confine my comments mainly to big -game species. Certainly, lesser game and non - game species will be affected, as will both resident and ana- dromous fish, but for purposes of this discussion I'll stick chief- ly to big -game animals. Before going on, I should point out that `wildlife' and 'rec- reation' , are synonymous but that recreation embodies a great deal more than wildlife. Wildlife populations enhance a recreational experience, wheth- er the participant is hunting, photographing, or merely view- ing. A great many people gain from just knowing, that certain species are present in a given area, even though the animals may seldem be seen. When we speak of manage- ment of game animals here in the West, we normally think of management for hunting pur- poses. But more and more, in other parts of the country, these other `uses' of wildlife are be- coming more important. The two Idaho rivers initially included in the legislation — the Middle Fork of the Salmon and the Clearwater's Middle Fork, including the Lochsa and Sea- way tributaries — flow through some of the state's .finest big game country. Of those in the `study' category, the main' Salmon in central Idaho and the St. Joe in the Panhandle are noted for their excellent big -! game habitat. Three of these four rivers or river systems, excepting the St. Joe, carve deep, steep - walled canyons. The Salmon canyon is more than 6,000 feet deep in places. Ecologically, the can- yons of the Salmon and its major tributaries, along with Hells Canyon, are unique to the Intermountain Area. The Clearwater system can- yons, while not so striking phys- iographically, serve the same ecologic function in that the canyons provide a great per- centage of the available winter range for big -game animals. The Bruneau, a `study' category river, serves the same purpose,, although it exists in entirely dif- ferent type of terrain. The other two Panhandle rivers in the study group — the Priest and the Moyie — are quite different ecologically. Year -round precipitation is greater, topographic relief is less, and their canyons, if one could call them canyons, are much shallower. The steep - walled canyons of the Salmon and Clearwater sys- tems provide winter range for the major portion of the nation's largest elk herd, as well as for two species of deer, bighorn sheep and mountain goats. The relatively small area of land bordering the rivers affected by the act often constitutes an im- portant part of the big -game winter range. In years of heavy snowfall and prolonged cold tempera- tures, (`hard' winters)— game animals are forced lower and lower in these canyons. Forage in the lower one- fourth of the canyon sometimes must sustain the entire herd for varying lengths of time. If this forage is not available low along thel river, for any reason, then dur- ing these hard winters we may expect serious losses, and thus smaller populations: Spring is another period when the lower portions of the can- yons receive heavy use. All spe- cies of big -game animals are at - tracted here by the new grass. This is not so important in the survival of these populations . but it does provide considerable'' -forage at this time of year. The importance of the lower canyon is evident to anyone who spends any amount of time in these areas during winter and who views things objectively. There is, however, scientific evidence to support this view: I Stewart Brandborg, who stud - ied mountain goats in the Salm- on drainage, states "During se- vere winters all of these big game species (elk, mule deer, bi�gghorn sheep, and mountain gdats) are concentrated ° on thej lower slopes ..." Dwight! Smith, in studying bighorn pop - ulations on the Middle Fork of the Salmon, found the lower. canyon important not only to sheep but to elk, deer and goats. Studies are currently being carried out by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service's Division of River Basin Studies in the Hells Canyon area of the Snake. They canyon is ecologically similar in l many respects to the Salmon. Preliminary findings indicate the lower elevations of the can- yon — which would be affected; by inundation by High Mountain Sheep Dam — receive much use by deer. My own work in the Primitive ;Area supports this view. Winter range has been shown to be the foremost factor in limiting the numbers of elk and mule deer. And in one winter — 1964 -65 — the lower portions of the canyon sustained these herds through- out late December, all of January, and early February., To determine the effects on big -game herds of retaining these lower- canyon lands, we must consider the alternatives. These include impoundment and subsequent inundation, road building, logging, mining, and other forms of ,development. Some of these alternatives de- stroy the winter range corn-� pletely, others make it, in ef- fect, unavailable to wildlife. The Wild and Scenic Rivers legisla- tion insures the retention, in a natural state, of this small but extremely critical portion of land. While the act will have future effects on wildlife populations, the effects on outdoor recrea- tion in the state will be many times greater. To establish this thesis, we must look at the !broad recreational picture, both now and in the future. And again the alternative uses must be considered and their benefits compared. It might be well to establish here what I mean by `benefits'. I'm speaking of both economic and cultural benefits. Monetary wealth and material gain are important in our society but in iour individual lives these alone are not enough. There are many, many things i— intangibles — which we can- ! not and make no effort to place a dollar sign on. These kinds of things include good music, art, architecture, and the like. Open space, a mountain lake, a free - flowing river fit the same Cate- gory. These intangibles instill quality in our individual lives and psychologists .tell us they are absolutely essential to phys- ical and mental health. I believe society must recog- nize that the same kinds of things are essential to its health and well being. We as a society ,should strive for this quality land not only for "goods ". Gross national product is a very poor measurement of the progress of a society. We enjoy a quality way of life here in the Northwest. I believe we can _retain this quality and still `.grow' economically. The economic growth is assured one way or the other, but with some kinds of growth all semblence of quality in the environment is lost. I believe, by developing our recreation industry, Idaho can enjoy lasting economic growth and at the same time I retain for its citizens the kind of an environment conducive to `good living'. In this regard — that of developing a recreation industry — Idaho's rivers and the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act are vitally important. The United States is currently undergoing an unprecedented boom in the recreation industry. The July, 1968, U.S. News and World Report states that an es- timated 100 million people in this country engage in one or more forms of outdoor recrea- tion. In 1900, 3 per cent of total consumer spending was devoted Ito recreation; today 6 per cent !goes for recreation The na- tional bill for all this — in equipment, fees of various kinds, and related expenses —adds up to $50 billion a year. The Pacific Northwest (en- compassing Washington, Ore - gon, Idaho, and Montana west of the Continental Divide) is riding the crest of a recreation boom. The Bonneville Power Administration, in its 1967 publi- cation "Pacific Northwest Eco- nomic Base Study for Power Markets" reports that $900 mil- lion is spent annually by tour- ists in the region. Projections forecast an increase to $2,210' million by 1985 and $6,765 mil- ( lion by 2010. Recreation demands in the re- gion will be three times greater in 1985 than in 1960, six times greater in 2000, and more than nine times greater in 2010. This region, with approximately 3 per cent of the nation's popu- lation, accounts for about 7 per cent of the nation's tourist ex- penditures. Because of the sheer ^diversity and immensity of Pacific North- west recreation opportunities, Northwest residents vacation more in their own region than do residents of other regions. Tourism in the Pacific North- west is properly classed as a basic or export industry. That is to say, the economic structure of tourism serves to generate i; significant net .credit in the re- gion's balance of interregional payments. This is a very impor- i tant point. In terms of employment, tour- ism is the fourth largest and probably the fastest growing in- dustry in the Northwest. (It 'ranks third in Idaho). The equivalent of 100,000 average workers are employed in jobs which stem directly and ex- clusively from tourist spending. Of these, 14,700 are employed in Idaho ... Idaho is keeping pace with this regional growth in the rec- reation business. Idaho Depart- ment of Commerce and Devel- opment reports that, despite a cool, wet season, tourism was up an estimated 5 to 7 per cent, bringing a record $215 million into the state in 1968 ... All other indicators — requests for literature, out -of- state travelers, etc — were up markedly in 1968. Another factor in the region'sI favor is that over half the land area is owned by the federal' government. In Idaho, the fig- ure is 64 per cent. In addition, state governments own 5 per cent of the land in the region. This is extremely important to the expanding recreation indus- try because publicly - owned land is generally available to the public for recreational use. Planning and careful manage- ment (which assign .a high pri- ority to recreation) should. be able to expand the resource . supply sufficiently to accom- modate the forecasted demand, and at the same time provide a wide range of recreational op- portunity; from high- density use, such as skiing and picnick- ing, to wilderness experience. But it will require planning. Why is the Northwest region so well off, so to speak, in the One way to achieve this diver - recreation business? It's diver-, sity in supply is to ration out sity is an important factor. It's scarce and unique resources topography is renowned for high such as wilderness and wild scenic qualities and suitability rivers. This is the only way to for recreation purposes. It has i maintain quality and uniqueness everything the outdoor recrea- in such resources. ,tionist wants — oceans and What are the advantages, beaches, forest, mountains, val- both economic and cultural, of a leys, rivers, lakes, canyons, wa- recreation industry over al- F rfalls, deserts, and extensive temative industries? I have ilderness. pointed out that recreation in I Another factor is the fact that the Northwest is a basic or ex -t to region is relatively un- port industry — it brings in a owded. Against the national net credit to the region. average of 54 persons per Another benefit is what econo- square mile, the Northwest has mist Myron Katz calls the `Mul- 21 per square mile. Thus the re- tiplier Effect'. Money spent by gion has a decided advantage nonresidents moves quickly and over other regions, namely nat- widely through the economy. ural environment, low- density, This money creates primary resource -based outdoor activity (as opposed to high- density, jobs and income for businesses close -in, user - oriented activity). serving the tourists. Further, as the Bonneville Power Administration points out T h i s money, however, is " . the region's recreational quickly spent and re spent on resources are used less in- tensively than elsewhere, allow - other goods and services; thus nonresident tourist expenditures ing for a wide range of dis- I have a "multiplier effect" on positions or forms of devel -I employment and income. They opment. raise income directly, but in ad- dition they set up a chain of fur- "Portions remain susceptible to preservation in their natural wildland character, a major at- traction of the region. "Other portions are susceptible tai improvement in quality and, accessibility with corresponding stimulation to demand, where comparable improvements else- where in the nation are either impossible or achievable only at very high costs..... (we have) emphasized natural environ- ment because it is here that the Pacific Northwest has a unique and demonstrable advantage over most of the nation." . In short, Idaho and the Pacif- ic Northwest have an ideal rec- reation resource base upon which to draw. ther spending and re- spending. Further, studies show that most of these dollars are spent on goods and services which are produced in the Northwest, thus tending to further stimulate the region's economy. Outdoor recreation disperses income and employment throughout the region, rather than concentrating it in already densely populated areas. Thus tourism does not create many of the problems generated by some other industries. Less money is required of society for public services, such as sewage systems, fire and police protec- tion and education of children. An interesting comparison may be made here. Tourism brought $215 million into Idaho in 1968. The Idaho Mining Asso- ciation reports the total value of mining production in Idaho in 1968 was $118.1 million. The most important facts to consid- er, however, are that tourism income was relatively well dis- persed over the entire state; mining income was largely re- stricted to one small area in north Idaho. Further, it is imperative that we consider the atmosphere — the quality of the environment — in the North Idaho mining districts to that of some of our more intensively used recrea- tion areas such as Sun Valley, McCall, or Salmon. If "tax base" is our only cri- teria for measurement, then certainly Smelterville has it over Salmon or McCall as a de- sirable place to live and raise a family. I don't think so. The really important consid- eration, at what former Secre- tary Udall terms this "critical moment ", is the environment. It is here that the strongest argu- ment for a recreation industry, over some alternatives, exists. The amount of pollution to the atmosphere and water attribut- able to reccation is relatively minor. In this respect, the economic costs to society of the recrea- tion and tourism industry are probably more fully borne by the industry itself, per dollar of income, than is the case with many other industries. And cer- tainly the cultural costs to society are far less. Contrast the air and water at Smelter - ville with that at Salmon or McCall. Finally, a characteristic of the recreation industry that is important both economically and culturally is that it does not ordinarily deplete the resources upon which it depends when those resources — scenic and other outdoor recreation attrac- tions — are properly managed. This aspect — proper man- agement of our total recreation resources — is where the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act fits into the picture. This act is doubly 'important because it deals with W what the Bonneville Power Ad- ministration terms a unique re- source. And uniqueness is one factor which gives Idaho and the Pa- cific Northwest such a decided advantage over the rest of the nation. Idaho's wild rivers and their canyons are definitely unioue. An indication of the interest in these rivers, is the increasing number of visitors to the Salm- on and the Middle Fork — 1,450 boat visitors on the Middle Fork alone in 1968. They number of float boats on the Middle Fork has risen rapidly — from 218 in 1965 to 413 in 1968. The Forest Service estimates 6,000 visitors spent 11,500 visitor days on the main Salmon from the road's end to Lantz's Bar. Further evidence of the ap- peal of Idaho's wild rivers is the fact that the National Geo- graphic Society chose the Mid- dle Fork and main Salmon for an hour -long television docu- mentary. Idaho's free - flowing rivers are one of the state's major tourist attractions. And yet we have done very little on the state level to insure that this re- source is not irreparably altered or lost. Recreation is not even consid- ered a beneficial use of water in our laws — it must be given recognition. Wisconsin as early as 1905 passed legislation protecting its streams and for a number of years has had its own `State Wild Rivers Bill'. Missouri has • similar law. Further, we need • system of evaluating and clas- sifying the recreation potential of all of our major streams and their watersheds. This classifi- cation should periodically be up- dated as situations arise and needs become evident ... My whole discussion may ap- pear more a pitch for recrea- tion development and planning than a discussion of Wild Rivers legislation. What I've tried to Bo is point out that we in Idaho have an opportunity to grow economically and at the same time maintain a quality way of life. The Wild and Scenic Rivers, Act is a step in this direction. Many of us live in Idaho be- cause of the excellence and di- versity of outdoor recreation op- portunities and because in- tangible things that are impor- tant to us as individuals exist here. I believe the recreation in- dustry offers a way to have "the best of both." I do not advocate the status quo as far as a statewide eco- nomic base is concerned, nor do I advocate "turning the state over to recreation. Certainly diversity in economic develop- ment is desirable. I do advocate giving first con- sideration to managing our re- sources for recreational pur- poses when it can be demon- strated that in the long run society will receive the greatest benefits. ...And Wildlife in Gem State A BOATER'S -EYE VIEW of a churning rapid on the Middle Fork of the Salmon River gives a perspective of the thrill of white -water float boating on the nation's wild rivers system. Sheer canyon walls make boating the only practicable way of traversing the lower Middle Fork. (Photos by Ernest Day) These benefits may he eco- nomic or cultural, or both. Summing up, the burgeoning recreation industry makes it imperative for us in Idaho to: 1. Keep the options on our free - flowing rivers open. Rivers are one of our most unique re- sources — they also are the most fragile. 2. Classify the recreation po- tential of our rivers and water resources and periodically up- date this classification. 3. Retain diversity, both in the landscape and in development. We must provide both quality and quantity recreational ex- periences. 4. Continually strive toward quality in economic growth and way of life. We have an unpar- alleled opportunity. But to ac- complish it we must alter our thinking concerning `devel- opment'. We must cast off pro- vincialism and attitudes that were valid 30-40 years ago. Technology has changed all that. Our thinking on free - flowing rivers is an example. The West has long guarded its water for irrigation purposes. Hydroelec- tric power has also come on the scene. We must now recognize there are alternatives, often much better uses of our water resources. As Bill Hall, writing in the Lewiston Tribune, May 26, 1968, states ". . Leaving a stream alone is using it. It is shocking (to the reclaimationist) that the Middle Fork of the Clearwater and that stream's tributaries can run untouched through the mountains, and the people who live here still think they are de- riving some benefit. "This river meets the de- mands of the North Idaho tour- ist industry and the recreation demands of those who live in the region .. . "Anadromous fish runs are caught up in the economy of the state and region — the com- mercial fishing in Oregon and Washington, the tourist in- dustry, and the casual as a part of the quality fish ery sports fish of life in this region that per- mits us to attract and hold able people. It permits us to bid for talent in industry, education and gov- ernment against high paying, communities and states." Reclamationists view those who battle for free- flowing streams as a poetic minority. (To them) it's money running toward the ocean. (They) don't understand that the thousands of tourists who come to see . open rivers pay cold, hard cash for the privilege. And more are coming every year ..." AT DUSK, a placid stretch of the Middle Fork of the Salmon River belies the turbu- lent, unpredictable nature of the wild river. The canyon is the home of deer, elk, bear, cougar and mountain goat as well as other wildlife. The canyon is ecologically unique to the Intermountain Area. MOUNTAIN SHEEP find the sheer, rocky crags of the Middle Fork of the Salmon a hospitable home. the small area bordering the river bottom provides an important winter range for the bighorns, as well as other big game species. Five sheep were caught by the camera in this picture. "Horse Rides the River" THROUGH DEEP Salmon River Canyons goes the jet boat, almost engulfed by the rapids, with Paul Filer at the controls. Mary Jane rests her hand on Margare's neck. The Arabian gave no trouble whatever through the "River of No Return" canyon. Photo by Walt Rubey. Shore Lodge, McCall. Jayne Brown and Walt Ru- bey, McCall, are working on a book of the Salmon River area and "River of No Return" which will contain color pic- tures and historical and local material. Rubey and Mrs. Brown have been assembling pictures and material for this book for the past two years and have set a tentative date of October, 1970, for publica- tion and release to the public. The following is just a sample of the type of material this book will contain. —o— (Continued from last week) By JAYNE BROWN Pictures by Walt Rubey IT HAD been Mary Jane's show from the beginning and now it was still her show. She picked up a bucket of grain and went up the ramp, bridle reins in hand. Arab 'hesitated just a minute, looked things over, then with tail held high calmly eve D f ' eICJl�S and sheer cliffs, the boat zoomed — rocking, leaping, swooshing, swirling, dipping, dancing, drifting occasionally in crystal clear calm water. They sped past white sandy beaches with fresh game tracks. They stopped at Filer's Shepp Ranch and glimpsed the historic cabin of Polly Bemis. On their way again, Indian relics and hiero- glyphics (probably stating that these waters are impassable) were iust a blur. Through all of the rapids — unpredictable Mann's Creek, foaming Cotton Tail, tempestuous Little Growler, vio- lent Dried Meat, treacherous Chitin —it was no different. Martare was out for a joy ride. He seemed to be looking at the scenery, the rugged and rocky timbered canyon of the Salmon River. Once in a while he ate some grain or rubbed his head against his mistress's body to let her know he was glad she was there. Twenty -eight miles and two hours later the boat journey was over. walked into the boat. Rapport between girl and horse was so ARAB and Mary Jane went to perfect that it brought tears to the rodeo. They paraded and the eyes of everyone. No one raced. They ran the barrels and said a word. placed fifth on the judge's sheet. Mary Jane turned the horse, But they placed first in the wild -riyed for just a moment, so hearts of the crowd. Arab had that he would be facing down- proved that you can lead a horse' stream. Two pieces of plywood to water but you can't make were put on each side of the him sink. Together •they proved boat to form a stall reaching that the pioneer spirit still lives eight inches above the sides of and there are ways to prove it. the boat. Rope was secured And Mary Jane, a teenager around his chest and twice over with a freckled face and a warm his back. Bales of hay were toothy grin, proved that Young thrown in front to protect him America is much more than if he were thrown off balance in dope fiends and hippies. the rapids. Arab didn't realize The Riggins Rodeo was just'. this and nonchalantly nibbled the beginning for both horse and first on the hay and then on the rider. Mary Jane and Arab had grain, completely unaware that had a taste of the excitement he was about to make horse of competition, and they were !, history. literally "off to the .races." The ramp and boards for un- In August they went to the loading were put into the boat Western Idaho State Fair in and it was shove -off time. There Boise where Arab gleaned a was a moment of consternation fourth in the Halter Class for as Filer thought he had 'got a purebred Arabian geldings. Horse motor" on a rock. Then smooth- and rider were learning new con - ly out into the River of No Re- trol, new standards and new turn they went, rodeo bound. methods, as they were exposed Mary Jane sat beside Arab, re- to contests completely foreign assuringly petting his neck. I to anything that had existed in With Bobby in the bow of the their lives at Mackay Bar. More boat, they headed into the first practice, more trial and error, rapid. Arab pointed his ears and, and they began to place in the held his head and tail high, on English pleasure and jumping balance, absolutely relaxed. classes. They went through first one Arab had been a faithful per - rapid and then another. Mary former, loved and pampered; but Jane's look of concern gradually he was too old to school in changed to one of joy. Her horse all of the new challenges Mary was proving her belief in him. Jane was anxious to meet head- * * * on. In 1969 she was offered a PAST TOWERING rock crags registered Appaloosa mare to ride in the 1. 0. N. (Idaho, Ore- gon, Nevada) Appaloosa Youth Show. MALHUER'S Painted Lady was beautiful and performed like nothing Mary Jane had ever rid- den before. So her parents bought the horse. Arab was relegated to young- er sister, Nellie, and brothers, Bobby and Pat —no less loved, but his mistress was off to big- ger things. With Painted Lady, Mary Jane competed in seven shows in Idaho, including three I.O. N. shows, two open Appaloosa shows at the Western Idaho State Fair, and at Enterprise, Ore.; and two local shows at the Highlands Saddle and Jump Club. Her winnings were 10 first, 13 seconds, 8 thirds, 6 fourths, 4 fifths, and 2 sixths — always in the top ten. Mary Jane still went back to some of the old faithful horses she had cowgirled on in the Salmon River hills, riding Trig- ger, an Appaloosa gelding she had raised from birth, and a Quarter Mare Punk, owned by the Tices. When her own horses were back "duding," she bor- rowed Appaloosa geldings to show at 4 -H shows. Her versatility was amazing. She entered everything — halter, reining, stump races, stake races, barrel races, trail class, key- hole races, rope races, horseback equitation. Western pleasure, English pleasure, rescue races, and costume class. Her biggest thrill of the year came when points totalled to give her the high point award for 1969 in the 1. O. N. Youth Shows, for youth 13 and under and for which she received a beautiful silver- mounted bit. MARY JANE'S horizons con- tinued to broaden. Being ready for high school, she left Mackay Bar and home to attend Parnell Preparatory School at Pomona, Calif., a school specializing in Western, English and jumping showmanship for grades four, through 12. Approximately 601 students are schooled on 125 Arabian, Thoroughbred and Quarter horses, with competition in shows each weekend. School officials were quick to recognize this young girl's com- plete rapport with any horse. They had been having some ,trouble with a 'green- broke' Thoroughbred gelding called Music Center, which had been badly spoiled and needed ex- pert handling; so Mary Jane be- gan to ,ride this difficult horse. The hig event of the year was an International show at the Diamond Bar Ranch in San Gab - riel Valley —a long way from the Salmon River hills. Mary I Jane, atop Music Center, won third in Small Working Hunter (15 hands or under) under saddle; third in Pony Jumper; fourth in Pony Pleasure; seventh in Pony Hunter. I In the Pony Jumper Class, .riders were not judged on class. When Mary Jane completed the last jump, she couldn't stand it any longer. She kicked her stir- rups free, heeled her horse and in Mackay Bar style "let 'er rip -" To the spectators' shouts 1 of "Come on Idaho " Mary Jane `came home.' Her future is bright. It's a long way in more ways than i one from Mackay Bar and the I Riggins Rodeo to International competition, but this modern teen -aged girl got there —on a horse. I Forest Service Destroys History In Burning Salmon River Cabin Editor, The Statesman: At noon last Tuesday, a cloud of smoke rose over the Salmon River Canyon. The U.S. Forest Service was burning another house. This time it was the cabin Ed Heintz built on his claim 40 years ago. There is something special about most log cabins, and no one who ever saw this one could help but like it. With winch, crosscut saw, and craftsmanship Ed fashioned a structure that would last. When he died in a Grangeville rest home last year, his cabin still stood tight and firm. Who was Ed Heintz? We know he came to Salmon River country from Wisconsin by way of Washington. Ile filed the Beaver Placer mining claim and built his house on the site. He dug a root cellar and grew vegetables to fill it, diverting water from the creek. There he lived, skim - digging and trapping, off and on for nearly 20 year. The Forest Service began toying with the notion of destroying his cabin in 1964. They wanted to extend a road to the site, building a boat ramp and bridge. The cabin was in the way, and construction had priority. But the best laid plans "gang oft a'lay," the road was never lengthened, and the cabin managed to survive. Offending no one, it was a source of pleasure to many. It served as emer- gency shelter in times past and present. River travelers who stopped to look it over were delighted. Moss cov- ered the nearby rocks and Long Tom Creek splashed down to the river a few feet away. Then one rainy afternoon the Forest Service unexpectedly reappeared; "policy" in head and matches in hand. In a few hours the cabin was ashes. Everyone who has learned of this ac- tion regards it as a federal arson. There is considerable irony in a gov- ernmental agency, symbolized by Smokey the Bear, and continually em- phasizing a message of "care with fire," which goes about incinerating buildings of aesthetic and historic in- terest. Inquiry at the supervisor's office re- vealed the thinking, or lack of thought, behind this particular fire. The super- visor indicated that there was no uni- form policy, each case was decided on its own merits. The Beaver placer claim had been determined to .be.void from the beginning, and Ehe Widing a "tresspass." Deciding it was not a "habitable abode," no court action was taken to inform the present owner of a quitclaim deed to the site of the plans to destroy the cabin. The action was even less defensible because the cabin was within the corridor of an area being considered for "wild and scenic" classification. That there is a general policy on the part of the USFS to destroy abandoned cabins on lands within its jurisdiction is as plain as the horn on a saddle. In at least one instance we have discover- ed, the Forest Service burned buildings on private property adjacent to its lands. Everyone who heard of the Heintz "vandalism" expressed emphat- ic indignation at such action. In one case there was only resignation: "That's the Forest Service for you!" Bring this subject up in any Idaho town, and a litany of such senseless burnings will be recalled by the resi- dents. The conclusion one quickly draws from such conversations is that this needless destruction has drawn deeply on the Forest Service reservoir of pub- lic goodwill. In many cases the reser- voir seems to have been emptied some years ago. If the Forest Service objects to such cabins on grounds of hazard or aesthet- ics, one can only too readily point out seldom -used service cabins, unsightly fire dumps, miles of USFS useless but never removed telephone line, etce- tera. In fact, this year the Forest Serv- ice has revealed plans to build perma- nent living quarters by Dagger Falls on the Middle Fork. The Forest Service could well be admonished: "Wipe out the beam in thy own eye, before the mote of an isolated cabin." There is not much doubt that under such a poli- cy, Fort Fizzle or a Lewis and Clark cabin this side of Fort Clatsop would long ago have been put to the torch by directives of some Service bureaucrat. There is little evidence of any inter- est or knowledge on the part of the Forest Service about the history of oc- cupied sites on the Salmon or Snake Rivers, If such studies have been done, no one in the headquarter or district of. fices'knows of them or cares about tAem:,In one case, having two book ci- tatid°nsio a 14 -page report was still in- sufficient to locate a single employe who knew of the existence of such a re- port, let alone its whereabouts. In `the Heintz cabin situation, appar- ently no consideration whatever was given to any of the a., errwttiues to fire. . Atf That the cabin could have been dis- mantled easily and willingly and relo- cated at Shepp or James Ranch never even occurred to anyone in the deci- sion making process. One comes to ex- pect such a myopic mentality on the part of bureaucracies. After ail, a bu- reaucrat is someone who does what he is told. But recent events in this country have had an encouraging as- pect, in that short - sighted policies and corruption have been arrested by ordi- nary individuals who have said, "No, you won't make me an accomplice to your thoughtlessness or dishonesty." So perhaps sadder than the flames that devoured the Ed Heintz cabin, was the ability of the Forest Service to find some GS2 or GS3 who was willing to go out, pour the gas and light the match. The point worth making is that some buildings still survive; remote prospec- tor's cabins, old mines. Each has its in- terest, its biography, its beauty. Yearly they are fewer. If any are to survive for our appreciation and that of our children, we must seek a change in such a near - sighted Forest Service pol- icy. A danger foreseen is half avoided. Perhaps the Forest Service should be required to submit an environmental impact statement before destroying buildings. At the very least, the people of nearby communities and ranches should be informed and consulted. They will know the historical import of the structure; it is their history — not that of some agricultural department. This might retard irresponsibility long enough to allow people with vision and multiple interests to act. A clash of ideas is not a disaster, it is an opportunity for reconsideration. Perhaps the matter removed from For- est Service prerogatives altogether. Af- ter all, we can restock fish and plant new trees, but once reduced to ashes, who can restore the wonder of an old log house? — CORT CONLEY, Cam- bridge. > lof �6a ry _ /C% %% �qg� All z f z 7 BUCKSKIN BILL'S CHRISTMAS MESSAGE Editor's Note: This message from -;. Buckskin Bill was solicited by HIGH COUNTRY through a cor- respondent, Pauline Miller. Mrs. Miller sent Buckskin a necktie for' Christmas along with a note re questing Bill's Christmas message , 1, to the outside world. He responded with a handwritten letter, reproduc- ed here, on Cyclops Mining Com- pany stationery. Pauline has spent nearly as :much time alone in the back country as Buckskin Bill. The two of them are old friends. How: Thank you for your gift. On Christmas I take a Couple of carrots vier to my pygmy rabbit. I have a pine squirrel. Perhaps I'll give him a car- rot too. I also have an old beaver and there's a cub —they can get their own Christmas food. A pioneer in Oklahoma forbade his children to go out in the snow, but they did anyway. They were scared when they saw him cutting sticks with his pocket knife. Truth was, he only wanted to measure their feet so he could get them shoes for Christmas. He cut sticks the length of the childrens' feet and, when the shoes arrived, they fit Per- fectly. I always sing in German on Christmas: "0 Tannembaum ", "Stille Nacht ", etc. But Christmas is for children and animals. The Swedes snake sure their animals get good food at Christmas time. The old Germans and Hungarians have Santa Claus who arrives per- sonally and gives good children toys, candy, fruit, etc. But along with Santa Claus comes Bug Bear, a black man with stacks to beat bad child - ren. His black face is made from a black sock with holes in it. Buckskin Bill' About Buckskin Bill: Sylvan Hart, better known as Buckskin Bill, is truly a legend in his own time. Since coming to Idaho in 1935, Buckskin Bill has lived the life of a pioneer, alone on the Salmon River. Almost entirely self- sufficient, he depends on the world outside the confines of his wilderness sanctuary for sugar, raisins, rice, flour, oatmeal, tea and books. He generally has about fifty dollars worth of these supplies packed in once a year. Otherwise he raises, hunts and makes every- thing he needs. 01- R17P Carter awaits Andrus' advice on wilderness President Jimmy Carter did not reveal his position on how large central Idaho wilderness areas should be, Gov. John Evans said Monday. Evans said that when he and De- mocratic senatorial candidate Dwight Jensen started to talk about wilderness areas with Car- ter during their ride to the Rode - way Inn from the Boise airport, "he diverted attention" from the subject. The president said Interior Sec- retary Cecil Andrus "is the author- ity. He's told me all about it," Evans said. Carter said, Andrus is going to advise him how large it should be. Carter and Andrus are to begin floating the Middle Fork of the Salmon River in central Idaho today. Environmentalists want to expand areas protected from log- ging and mining to 2.3 million acres, while Andrus and the Forest Service had apparently reached basic agreement on 1.8 million acres. That was only one of a number of Idaho issues Evans and Jensen said they discussed briefly with Carter during the ride from the airport. Evans told reporters after arriv- ing at the Rodeway Inn with the Carter - Andrus party that the presi- dent said he would "continue to support" breeder reactor research of the kind going on at the federal installation near Arco. Jensen said Carter added, how- ever, he "does not want to pour the money into the proposed Clinch River breeder reactor" in another state "because it would be obsolete" by the time it is built. Carter told the two Democrats he couldn't advocate one way or the other a bill proposed by Sen. Frank Church to aid sugar beet growers until the legislation comes out of a House - Senate conference committee, the governor said. Evans, noting that the federal government is preventing Idaho farmers from diverting Snake River water, said Carter affirmed he'll "stick by" states' rights in the distribution of water to farmers. The governor said Carter told him he was "just very excited" about being in Idaho, and that Car- ter emphasized how difficult it was for a president to be able to have a vacation by himself. "He said I'm going to catch a bigger fish than Cecil Andrus does," the governor related. Jensen said Carter sent him a letter Monday saying "you have my strong support" in Jensen's race against Republican Sen. James McClure. In the car, Jensen said, the president said it would be helpful to have him in Congress be- cause McClure rarely supports his policies. Evans, who faces state Rep. Allan Larsen in the November gu- bernatorial election, told reporters Carter made no endorsement of him. Evans said, "We never really talked about it at all," adding he "didn't think it was appropriate at this particular point." However, he said Carter's visit "in itself will enhance John Evans as the governor of the state of Idaho." Evans spoke of errors that have been made in the past about recla- mation projects and building dams, and said Carter is going to be mending political fences in the West, and will do so by 1980.. Asked if Carter, who lost Idaho in the 1976 presidential election, could carry the state today, Evans responded quicky, "No." Carter has been criticized in a Statesman editorial for not allow- ing Idaho media to cover his raft trip. G� � Carter, Idahoans say `Hello Raft trip begins this morning b, Statesman photo by James Dean 'President Carter is greeted by Gov. John Evans' family, including reluctant grandson Jimmy Evans, 2 m� 5;? � _ - rle /1 -_/I-ez -"C - , " � / "3/--) 17 � ? By ROD GRAMEk The Idaho Statesman President Carter and about 700 military personnel and families ex- changed warm greetings Monday afternoon when the president ar- rived in Boise to begin a vacation that will take him into Idaho's wilderness area. Carter arrived at 5:55 p.m, and spent the bulk of a half hour talk- ing with reporters and shaking hands with the crowd gathered in the 87- degree heat at Gowen Field. Carter told reporters he is "doing OK" in national popularity polls. But he added that he will watch the congressional election this November to "assess" the support of his programs. The president, his wife Rosa - lynn, daughter Amy and sons Jack and Chip, were to spend about 12 hours in Boise before leaving early today for a a three -day float trip down 75 miles of the Middle Fork of the Salmon River. Emerging from the blue and silver Air Force One into the late afternon sun, the president — ac- companied by Interior Secretary Cecil Andrus and his wife Carol — acknowledged the applause of the crowd with the famous Carter smile and a wave before quickly descending the steps to greet a long line of dignitaries, including Gov. John Evans and his family, Lt. Gov. William Murphy, Boise Mayor Dick Eardley, other Demo- cratic officials and Tracy and Tana Andrus, the daughters of the Interior secretary and former Idaho governor. While moving through the re- ceiving line, the president stopped briefly to comfort one of Evans' grandchildren who had begun to cry. Mrs. Carter, dressed in a white jacket and spring green slacks, was given a bouquet of red roses as she stepped from the ramp. The president — with his daugh- ter Amy and a cadre of Secret Ser- vice men at his side — went di- rectly to a group of about 75 news- men who stood in a roped of€ area. A press conference had not been on the original schedule, keeping with the president's desire to limit media coverage to a minimum during his 10-day Western vaca- tion. Dressed in a blue- checked busi- ness suit, Carter said he was "glad to be in Idaho," and termed his float trip an "unprecedented vaca- tion" for a president. He said his close friend Andrus "has never lost an opportunity to tell me about the. beauties of Idaho." Carter said he visited Idaho in the 1950s when he underwent atomic submarine training at what was then the National Reactor Testing station near Idaho Falls. He also stopped briefly at the Boise airport in 1976 while cam- paigning for the presidency. The president said he is "an old canoe and kayaking man." But he (See CARTER, Page 4A) Carter ------------------ (Continued from Page IA) said it has been three years since he has slept in a sleeping bag. Asked if his float trip was an at- tempt to boost his sagging popular- ity in the polls, Carter said he is "doing OK in the polls," but added that he can't "run the White House" based on popularity polls. Carter said a "good way to as- sess "'his popularity will be in the congressional elections this No- vernber. He said the Democrats normally lose several incumbent congressmen in an off - presidential election. "We hope to do better than that," he said., The president also said he as- sured Idaho Sen. James McClure, R- Idaho, in a meeting last Thurs- day that the U.S. would pursue a "strong" research program in the breeder reactor field. Carter said he told McClure he would not sup- port development of the Clinch River breeder reactor in Ten- nessee. 'We are strongly in favor of an adequate, very strong research and development program in the breeder' field," Carter told news- men. "What I don't want to do is firm up a specific design program which by the time it was completed would be obsolete." 9� After meeting with newsmen, the president, Mrs. Carter and Amy moved along the edge of the crowd, shaking hands and ex- changing greetings with about 700 servicemen, their families and gu- ests. One national press photogra- pher who follows the president said it is unusual for Carter to take that much time to shake hands and greet the public. "He (Carter) usually walks over to the crowd, waves and says, `Hi, how are your " the photographer said. En route to Idaho, Andrus dis- cussed the Salmon River trip and the proposed Salmon River wilder- ness area with newsmen aboard the presidential aircraft. Andrus said he mentioned to Carter one year ago that he should take a float trip down the Salmon. An administration proposal to set aside 1.8 million acres in the Salmon River area as wilderness is being studied by the Office of Man- agement and Budget. Some con- servationists want to preserve 2.3 million acres in the area as wilder- ness. Andrus told The Statesman Mon- day night that Carter should make a recommendation on the Salmon River wilderness area by the end of this year. Some get, a Carter handshake By EARL DUNN The Idaho Statesman It was a perfect crowd to greet an American president. There were no tractors with drivers carrying placards decrying the plight of the American farmer. No angry housewives chanting about rising supermarket prices. No irate military career people seeking verbally to flail their com- mander -in -chief over his veto of the defense budget. But there were military people present. The crowd that greeted President Carter at Gowen Field — estimated to he about 700 — was made up of military personnel and their dependents. One Air Force sergeant sta- necks, their eyes occasionally scanned the skies. And they ner- vously exchanged meaningless banter. Not all of the military personnel necessarily wanted to be the offi- cial airport reception "com- mittee" for the president. One member of the 116th Ar- mored Cavalry Regiment unit from Le Grande, Ore., told a re- porter, "This was about the only option left open to us. We're here on two -week training and they shut down the PX, shut down the NCO Club, locked all the gates so we couldn't get in or out, so it was this or nothing." There were 400 members of the (See CROWD, Page 4A) tioned with the Idaho Air National Guard commented, "This may be the only chance I'll ever have to see that plane and a president of the United States." All who were gathered knew they would be able to see the presi- dent, but few believed they would get to touch him. Advance an- nouncements made by the White House suggested the president would step from the plane, wave to the crowd and would then be whisked away to his overnight des- tination, the Rodeway Inn, by the presidential limousine. Much to the surprise of the crowd, the president provided that rare opportunity that so often causes the recipient to give a soul- ful glance at his hand. Carter not only walked briskly to the rope barricade where he held a brief impromptu press conference, but walked along grabbing every hand he could, touching arms and chat- ting with the now- excited throng. "He touched my face," one woman shouted to someone behind her as the president continued to exchange pleasantries with the emotionally charged gathering. Even before Air Force One touched down on the south side of the airport, it was obvious how much the gathering wished for a closer look and perhaps a brief clasping of hands with this symbol Of nationality and leadership. Their cameras hung from their Crowd ______o__________ (Continued from Page 1 A) unit at Gowen Field. Lt. Dave Swearingen, public in- formation officer for the Idaho Air National Guard, said, "With these people, the president was virtually assured of a friendly, clean -cut crowd." After the president had passed through, half of the crowd gath- ered at the rope barricade, one teen -age boy turned to his friend and was overheard to comment, "How many chances in a lifetime do you have to do this? Let's put it 111�� this way, out of 38 presidents, I shook hands with one of them." Another woman who was with her girlfriend, a WAF, remarked after Carter passed by, "He has nice presence, doesn't he ?" "I was going to ask him for a raise," the WAF replied. Still another woman showed how a presidential handclasp can elec- trify a crowd by commenting, "it was neat! I'm glad I don't have to have my blood pressure taken now. It's up 14 points." One Air Force sergeant, his left chest dotted with colorful cam- paign ribbons signifying a fairly long military career, was less im- pressed. Asked if he shook the president's hand, he replied: "No, I didn't. I could have. But I shook the hand of one president when I was 8 years old and I never forgot it..That was FDR (Franklin Delano Roosevelt). I've had other chances to shake a president's hand, but getting to shake FDR's hand was all I'll ever need. It was unforgettable." But there was a young lad — about 7 or 8 years old — who was bubbling with excite. lent as he was led away by his pa.::nts. "I got to shake his hand, dad." Civilizatteo MCCALL, Idaho (AP) When Sylvan A. Hart acquired a master's degree in engineer- from the University of Idaho; he decided that was enough of civilization for a while. He put an ax, a rifle, and a few staples on. his back' and disappeared into the Ida- ho mountains. Forcing the wilds to yield food and clothing, finding com- fort when fierce winter grip- ped, the hills, Hart became a mountain man, 'much 'like those incredible loners who roamed the West more than 100,years ago. One year became two, then three, and- except for one prolonged occasion Hart . has never found reason to leave the wilderness. Now 66, he is threatened by a civilization that wants to force him out, of his remote home —in the name of wilder - ness preservation. IT WAS 1932 when Hart went into the hills. He made' his headquarters at the point where Little Five Mile Creek flows into the Salmon River — known as the "River of no Re- turn" because of its wild THE WAR may have been current. Visitors then were his undoing. Hundreds of sur- as much as a year apart. plus liferafts made river-run- Hart made his clothes from ning popular. Tourists,increas- animal skins and eventually float past Buckskin became known as "Buckskin- Bgl s. He has become some Bill." thing of a celebrity. He hewed timbers by hand, The trouble with this is that and put up several buildings, his wilderness has become a covering them with adobe. He mined copper, smelted it, re- wilderness by statute. Now fined it, alloyed it and made you, are not supposed to live utensils. there. TO BE FREd of store- Hart; has, applied for title bought ammunition he made to the land he has occupied so several flintlock rifles, bor- long. (Under certain circum ing the barrels on a hand- stances title could be granted) - made lathe turned by a foot treadle. Federal officials in, Boise say His ' trips out of the back he has not filled out the country have been rare. When but they have he needs gunpowder, books or forms properly, t re the Darjeeling tea of which given him until July o he is fond, he pans a little apply. gold —about $150 a year. -and I hikes to the hamlet of $urg- dorf. Hart's only extended time away from the wilderness was during World War II. It w,as the spring of. 1942 before' he heard of Pearl Harbor. He promptly enlisted, and served three years in Army. ordnance. //Q e Pt c.. 6) C n Q C,� J a'( �- v Ir s 1 Wnderness Wizard Sylvan__ A. Hart He Made Clothes, Rifle, Boar&, Shot And Powder Horns a0,1"t-ci ,q Arziaono- 62Q(o (�c POP "19 0(,?— �l f q PROTECTED BY CANNON — Buckskin. Bill, who lives in a lonely cabin deep in Idaho's Salmon River Breaks Primitive Area, is preparing for another hard winter. Bill is a gunsmith who has lived on the river for 42 years, with the only access to his cabin being either on foot or by boat up the Salmon River. Bill has built and mounted a shootable cannon near his cabin —he says he is waiting for the Forest Service to try and kick him off his land and he will blow them "out of the water. ( UPI photo by Buddy Mays Editor's Note: If you think the day of the rough- hewn, backwoods individu. alist is past, you'll find` reassurance in the saga of Buckskin Billy, a man who renounced civilization in fa- vor of life in America's most primitive inhabited region. By HUGH A. MULLIGAN FIVE MILE CREEK, Idaho (AP) — The age of hyperten- sion holds no terror for Si- mon Bolivar Buckingham Syl- van Ambrose Hart, otherwise known as Buckskin Billy. Buckskin has been retired longer than most people have been working. At the age of 25 he re- nounced a career as a petrol- eum engineer to live as he could in the most primitive region he could find. "I inquired as to where was the wildest, the most desolate, the most inaccessible part of the country, and they told me Salmon River Canyon," said Billy, stroking his long flow- ing beard and settling back in his rocking chair made of a cougar hide stretched over elk antler runners. "SO I CAME here and be- gan learning about myself. That's what the back country teaches you. It teaches you to live with yourself. There are no fat people in the wil- derness, and no ulcer victims, either." Now 57, Buckskin lives in a mile -deep canyon on the edge of the wild, rushing Salmon River in a pink clay cabin with a tin corrugated roof, with deer antlers for door knobs and a book -lined bed- room with a bay window fashioned from the plexiglass of a crashed B17 bomber. Al- most any morning, he can see elk and moose, Rocky Moun- tain sheep and. big black bears romping in his vege- table garden. Buckskin insists. he is not a hermit, but his nearest neighbor is 5' miles down river, the nearest town 50 miles over the mountain. He cooks pioneer style in iron pots over an open fire, dress- es and preserves the game that abounds at his doorstep FASHION PLATE — His $40 bearskin hat sits proudly on Buckskin Billy's head. It is one of his collection of hats. In horn - rimmed glasses, Buckskin shows the intel- lectual side of his life. and once a year, in the fall, flies to town for supplies like tea and sugar. From the rafters of his cabin hang white cotton sacks full of dried elk meat, cooked Mexi- can beans and ground corn meal. "THAT BAG there contains a year's supply of dried toast," said Billy, pointing with his Bowie knife. "And don't worry none about this knife. I only use it for carv- ing up grizzly bears, Demo- crats and other varmints." Buckskin earned his nick- name from the buckskin shirt and breeches he wears, along with other period piece cos- tumes, such as authentic. In- dian regalia, bright lumber- jack shirts and the faded uni- form of a Civil War Zouave, all of which -he: -keeps .in a closet. But hats are his real ruling passion. Each fall when he goes to town he wears a'dif- ferent one to dazzle the sales girls. His collection includes a coonskin cap, a bearskin beefeater that cost $40 and is guaranteed to last 40 years, and a crested leather, miner's cap, circa 1849, . that makes him ` look like a Spanish con - quistador, He also has a miner's hel- met that he wears rakishly over his shaggy uncut hair. BORN "IN the Oklahoma Indian territory and educated at the University of 'Okla - homa, which gave him a BA degree, Buckskin came to the wilderness because his father did the same thing years ago in the Creek Indian country. "It's been a tradition in our family to go to the back woods to seek your identity," Buckskin said. "People get in a rut. They don't develop their abilities. You know, man is a pretty good predatory ani- mal, and nature has much to teach him." Buckskin doesn't think he has wasted his educational op- portunities. Rather, he thinks he has refined them and given them purpose. An avid r e a d e r whose paperback library includes D a n t e, Rabelais, Dickens, Thackery, most of the Rus- sians and all the works of Winston Churchill, Buckskin believes that good literature and do- it- yourself mechanics go hand in hand. When World War II erupted, Buckskin donned his -best buckskins, grabbed his trusty flintlock and hiked 50 miles to the nearest draft board. , After convincing them of his sanity, he wound up in the Aleutians as a buck sergeant and master mechanic in the , Air Force servicing Norden bombsights, auto pilots and other delicate equipment. "AFTER I GOT out I had to learn to walk all over again," he said. "That was flat country up there and I had to get readjusted to the mountains." Out behind the cabin, Buck - skm'=�px o' u d l"y displayed a'' "" bombshelter, a deep cave, under, a huge, boulder where he occasionally goes to sit and r read on hot days. "I know this is miles from a target area, but, I got to set a good, example for the rest of the folk, so. I built myself a shel- ter," he said. On most days, Buckskin gets up at dawn, works 'at his guns or in his garden' until" noon, spends the rest of the day loafing or receiving visi- tors, if there are any, °and retires about 8. o'clock. 3D0e-q, rC'� C '2 50 MILES FROM TOWN—On his high stoop, Buck- skin Billy takes it easy at his home. The door irnnhe era moor antlers. Elk and moose, mountain bears often appear in his garden. hermit, but his nearest neighbor Nay and the nearest town is 50 there once a year for supplies r grow. d�ql>'- q �) ( '7 &-- /$ Ale A� 9 us e, �4 � Cecil Andrus and President Carter ready for launch. TAIC, �h F J1,4 //V/ o �►/ First fa by Rachel Nicholson I now know the definition of panic. Panic is having the secret service man standing next to you (designated by the button in his ear) say "that's HIS helicopter" as the gigantic craft hovers a few feet from the ground; looking down at your trusty camera and realizing you have used 33 of 36 exposures, and struggling with cold stiff and suddenly nervous fingers to get the new film loaded. I had only one thought as President Jimmy Carter landed at the Indian Creek airstrip early Tuesday morning- - Melody will kill me if I goof this one. But in the end, all was to turn out well, including some of the 200 -plus pictures I took at the primitive area site of the launching of the Presidential vacation. President Carter, his wife Rosalynn, daughter Amy and sons Jack and Chip helicoptered to the eastern border of Valley County early Tuesday morning from Boise, to take a three -day rafting trip down the Middle Fork of the Salmon River. They flew from Boise, where they spent Monday night. Preparations for the presidential visit to Idaho's primitive area started more than a week ago when com- munications experts and secret ser- vicemen flew to Indian Creek and other backcountry airstrips to install com- plicated radio equipment to keep Carter continuously in touch with the White House and insure his security. Despite the contingent of federal personnel at Indian Creek, Challis National Forest forestry technician Bud Hamilton said Tuesday, "It has been just about business as normal for us. ily rafts the SaIn "It was quite an experience for us waterproof bags and borrowing a pair around hei ere at Indian Creek," he added. "It of binoculars from a forest service like presid eems like everything went pretty man, took about 45 minutes. Told by themselves month." one of the crowd pressing around the earth. Challis National Forest Supervisor raft that he was going to get wet, Even aft ack Bills, also at Indian Creek Carter glanced at the glowering sky, it would be uesday, said that although some smiled his now - famous smile, and said Carter in t xceptions were made to the stringent "That's okay." gave the rr rimitive area rules tur the president's The rafts departed the beach at 8:15, weekend. isit, "they were not for his personal preceded by two forest service with stayir comfort, but for his communications kayakers in wet suits. Carter was in the rode, equipment. In a sense we say it's for standing beside Norm Guth as the rafts pie for the national security." swept out of sight around the bend. The "Ray," Bills said the exceptions made in- party was gone only minutes before the voice at A: cluded allowing four oversized marine area was bathed in a downpour of rain. will you helicopters to land at Indian t^reek and The saga of how I got to Indian Creek President? the use of a power generatar for the and stepped within four or five feet of Taking it communications equipment. the President is long and winding. people to si A crowd of more than 100 reporters, When it was first rumored that the -- Ray gav forest service personnel and their President was coming to Idaho, the time: Into families, a Boy Scout troop and Interior news barely phased my thinking. After night and Secretary Cecil Andrus and his wide all, he is not a Valley County com- But wha circled the helicopter bearing thet missioner, planning and zoning the river presidential family when they touched' commissioner or city councilman from down at about 7:30 Tuesday morning. Bill and Norm Guth, outfitters for the 71 -mile raft trip, greeted the casually dressed president and family. Norm lOf} 7 F d� ... in the wilds with the President (Continued from Page A -1) instead of Indian Creek, I asked in one of several calls to Ray. He was sure that Carter was going in at Indian Creek, but I had at least a half dozen helpful knowledgeables who assured me that the President would surely put in at the Middle Fork Lodge instead. Monday, there were lists of fair and rodeo winner names to be typed before I could leave for the Middle Fork, but I wasn't much worried because there was little packing to be done for a 24- hour jaunt. At 5 p.m., however, Carol Arnold called to tell me that a shut- down of the back - country airstrips would be in effect from 7 a.m. Tuesday until Thursday night. 16 My one -day trip suddenly was four days and I hurriedly bought and packed extra supplies. At 7 p.m., I was off the ground hi Cascade, winging toward Indian Creek. With me went 10 rolls of film, two notebooks, my specially issued presidential press credentials, my backpack and the advice of my puuiisher -- "Take pictures of everything and don't get shot by the secret servicemen." I did and I didn't. I„ 64 V The people- covered forest service which wheeled down the airstrip and knoll above the rafts and watched as grounds I expected were not to be found deposited a horde of reporters from last- minute preparations were made, at Indian Creek. Besides four big -name publications who were to gear'stowed, rain capes and life jackets Statesmen reporters and myself, there accompany the President on the trip. donned. A few minutes later, they were were forest service and secret service Then came a second Marine helicopter floating down the river, the President personnel playing a, game of football - -same size -- with more presspeople. waving to the group on shore. and rafters playing a gams of hor - These were later to return to Boise In the anticlimax following the seshoes. The expectation of an unusual aboard the same airship. I took pic- disappearance of the rafts down the event was not evident anywhere on the tures of them all. river, two things struck me. I had grounds. The third helicopter bore the "United wandered within a few feet of the Still not certain that the President States of America" designation on its President of the United States, taking truly intended to put into the river at side and raised hopes that now was the pictures and gei,�rally gawking with Indian Creek, I spent a mostly time to see the President. But Interior the rest of the people and I was not once sleepless night. Periodically I rose to Secretary Cecil Andrus and wife asked to explain my presence or to give check the rafts to mr tie sure the rafters disembarked from the craft and am- my name, rank or serial number. I left � ^�p not sneaking off. for a secret bled on down to the rafts. More pic- my credentials and press badge in my rendezvous .with the President. Thank„ ,tunes. backpack. goodness, although it was cold, it did And then it. was the Presidential ti:'` And yes -- despite my carefully not rain on-my out -in- the -open bedroll. helicopter setting down. I threatened prepared air of nonchalar- - -- I was Early Tuesday, I reluctantly crawled my fingers into loading the new roll of impressed and excited. from my cozy sleeping bag and started film into the camera and stepped Coming face to face with the my picture- taking. toward the stairs the dress - uniformed President is special after all. I took pictures of the rafters officer pulled down. As he saluted, I -- (P.S. The ,word came through preparing for the trip, of secret ser- along with scores of others -- snapped Tuesday morning that planes could fly vicemen installing a multitude of picture after picture of the blue -jean- west out of Indian Creek at 10 a.m., so radios in the rafts, more pictures of the clad President and his wife and my trip once more became short term. rafters... daughte, . I winged my way home just as the And then the helicopters began After +he greetings, the President downpour broke over the backwoods arriving. and his family walked past me and area. I only hope the President's rain First came a huge Marine helicopter down to the waiting rafts. I sat on a gear works.) ��, ���� . f z ��. . ������, t k" b lis" S r r NO a xP Fy Y� d> I MERL r e, s PAGE A-- 2 - -THE STAR-NEWS--THURSDAY--AUG. 24, 1978 he President . 9 - ,ems �� �q f� �+ -7`-, �7 �Es � ,� 7-- y y E Jimmy, "tosalynn a nd Amyget to know Mira Guth, it to outfitter's do Witter why joined them on their ride S'imPly Rio& ?!!omen by FRANCES ZAUNMILLER WISNER (Historical photos courtesy of the author) Had Peter Klinkhammer and Char- ley Shepp been ordinary mortals, then the world would never have learned of Polly Beamis. Who, except those two, would have seen anything un- usual, or noteworthy, in the tiny wom- an who devoted her years to an ailing husband. No complaints came from Polly ... not self - praise either. But Peter and Charley Shepp kept the rec- ord in the Shepp ranch diary. It was Charley Shepp and Peter who did the heavy chores for neighborli- ness. Still, it seemed the only thing to do was to pack Polly to Warren after the fire and Beamis' funeral. No wom- an could live alone on the river. That is the way it was for a couple of years until the morning when Peter noticed smoke coming from the Beamis chicken house. He and Shepp crossed the river to find Polly making breakfast over a campfire. "You don't need to worry about me. I not bother anyone. But this is my home and I am going to live here. I don't like it in town." The kind people of Warren had taken Polly into their hearts but "town" was a poor substitute for the Canyon of the Salmon. Here she had roots. Chestnut trees she had set out were bearing fruit. Asparagus and berries of her planting were waiting to fill bowls for the table and jars in the cellar. Here was home ... even in the chicken housel There was not a lot of talk that first morning. But Shepp and Peter sharp- ened saw and axe, gathered those tools needed to raise a house, and crossed to Polly's side of the river. Shepp ranch chores got short shift until they had Polly installed in a neat, tight, small but comfortable, new log cabin . . . smaller than the house which had burned, for Polly would be alone. She never was really alone though. The two at Shepp ranch kept vigil that she should have wood. They packed her supplies from town. Char- ley Shepp measured Polly when she needed a new dress from the catalog. As it had been in those years while Beamis was alive, the river boatman brought news of up- river. Captain Guleke appointed himself as Polly's newsman. And anyone who has spent much time in this canyon knows —if it happened, the boatmen know it. From the boatmen Polly learned that Truman Thomas, remembering the winter of 1905 and not wanting that repeated at Yellow Pine Bar, had (lug his grave, lined the hole with stone, then made a cover to keep any- It's a mighty big river, the Salmon. (Photo by Shira Studio). thing from falling in. He had built a coffin, too, and had it all ready. And Polly listened and her compassion an- swered all the unspoken questions. To the boatmen she shared her thought that "he loves her very much to want to spare her the digging. And she, sloes she use the box to hold her mending ?" Which is what Celeste Thomas did those several years that the coffin was stored under her bed. Polly knew that the Thomases of Yellow Pine Bar had no neighbor nearer than four miles. Too far when help is needed, even in summer. And four miles is out of this world in the Canyon of the Salmon in winter. Polly remembered the first boat of 1905 which stopped and told of the terrible winter at Campbell's Ferry. That winter left its mark on every- one in the canyon. No one at the ferry would talk about it, Jim Moore, across the river and just below the ferry told the boatman. "It began in the fall, before the snow came. Warren Cook told his wife to get ready to go out for the winter, so she would be near a doctor when her time came. She refused to go. Her time came in January. The doctor had been right. There were seven of us. We'd all helped cows and INCREDIBLE IDAHO twenty -three Capt. Guleke was the river's news- carrier for many, many years. Foot travel is still a modern mode of transportation along reaches of the Salmon River. twenty -four Warren, where during the gold rush, Mr. Beamis and Polly met. Winter along the river can be mighty lonesome says the author pictured with her dog on a stroll. INCREDIBLE IDAHO r HIST07 .r _ a E s This and =TTE LAI"Ie ESSIVE CLwt. ewes and mares. But not one of us could help her. It was too cold to make a coffin or dig a grave. We wrapped her in canvas and stored her in the blacksmith shop. Later the house burned down. I told them to move in with me, but Campbell said they could get caught across the river if the ice went out. Two men started dropping trees, another dragged the logs in, and two more barked them. I helped every v, - ►IC`s -- Celeste Thomas who kept her mending in a coffin. day. They had to shovel snow for the new house . . . just shoveled for the wall line (that house isn't square and the walls aren't straight like they would be if it had not been rolled up so fast) . All this time they ate and slept in the blacksmith shop. Yes, one man had to stay in the shop all day to keep a small fire for the two - year -old Thomas boy. As soon as the side walls were up, shakes were ready for the roof. And then they moved in, split wood on the dirt floor and chinked as they split wood. But they were out of the blacksmith shop. We got the grave dug the last of February. She never thawed out. And I don't want to talk about it any- more." And Polly, when she was told of Truman Thomas's waiting coffin and grave, could understand and approve that a husband would not want his wife to wait out the winter before she could bury him. It was a summer boat which brought word that Thomas had died. Strange that the neighbor who took word to Joe Zaunmiller that Thomas was took bad, merely passed the word along and did not go to help. Joe and his wife Emma rode down the moun- tain, to spend the last few clays with Mr. Thomas. It was Joe and Emma who placed him in the box and low- ered him into the waiting grave. Is it any wonder that Celeste sold the homestead and turned her face away from the river to spend her last years in Grangeville where she is buried? And Polly looked across the river at the house of her dear neighbors and knew that she, too, would not be able to live out her years in the beloved Canyon were they not the kind men they were. Boats told Polly of the sisters who lived at the mouth of Little Mallard; Mrs. Churchill, who married Prescott after Churchill drowned, and the sis- ter, Mrs. Joe Hoover who inherited the place when the Prescotts died. And Polly knew for the boatmen told her woman neighbors passed their clays much as she did— tending garden in summer, putting up the jars and crocks of summer fruit and vege- tables against a long, cold winter, and selling the surplus to passing miner and packstring. They were all so scattered. There was no chance to visit and to share in the little triumphs and frustrations which make one day different from the others. Loneliness became second na- ture. But Polly had Shepp and Peter and so, while alone, she was never lonely. Though Polly has gone from this world her spirit still reigns in this great canyon, and another woman INCREDIBLE IDAHO twenty -five While on an errand of mercy, Peter Klinkhammer's boat sprung a leak and he got his feet wet. came into the canyon and lost her heart. Lost it to timbered slopes, and grass- covered ridges ... to sparkling creeks and a deep running river. And she knew that she was going to spend the rest of her days beside that river. Is thirty -one years enough time for her to become an `old timer.' She thinks not, though she has seen the summer's storm and winter's snow un- til they are part of the pattern of her life. A tourist, stopping to view the native resident, asks what she does in her spare time and cannot understand that spare time is unknown in the I iSTORICAL RESSE FILE O QO NOT REMOVE FROM LI �„ PAYETTE LAKES PROGRESSIVE CLUB "Shooting the Rapids" on the Salmon. twenty -six Canyon of the Salmon nor is bore- dom ... nor loneliness. In time she will be thought of as `that old woman at the Ferry.' but never to her face for she thinks of age as merely years —never a physical thing. Unlike Polly, she saw changes come to the Canyon. Communication changed from the chance word of a passerby to forest service telephone lines and then to short wave radio- telephone. Will she ever forget riding the four miles to ask Billy Gaines if he would make the trip over the hill to Dixie to phone out that Jim Moore had died? And the waiting until word came back down the mountain for the neighbors to bury Jim? She saw a steel and concrete bridge replace a tipsy ferry boat. And she shed no tears at the passing of the old way. Instead she rejoiced that there was now a safe crossing on the river. Never again would high water reach up to snatch the carriage off the cable, dumping passengers into the river, leastways not at Campbell's Ferry. Polly would have enjoyed watching the little planes on mail day. She would have subscribed to all the wom- en's magazines, just as that later wom- an has done. Like Polly, the one who came later became a widow. Like Polly, she could not endure the thought of living in town. So after a couple of months in Grangeville and Lewiston —just thinking —she returned to her river, and later found a new husband' to share her love of the river country. Fifty years from now people may talk about that Frances who would not leave the river, who raised her garden ... what she did not dry on the trays in her hot attic, she canned. Some will tell of the hand - pieced, quilted comforters which covered her beds. Some will talk about her gentle- ness with children and her love of peo- ple. Others will only know of her temper when she thought one of the natural laws for life in this canyon was ignored. But all of them will grin a bit when they remember how she refused to al- low her home to be made into a tour- ist attraction. For they will remember that she had about as much privacy as an ant in a glass jar. Polly would have understood, and approved. Polly would say, as this later one said —there is a sameness to river women. Our only difference is in the little things ... where we were born ... Polly in China ... Celeste Thomas somewhere in the midwest ... Frances in central Texas. Once on the river, even the years make no dif- ference. We are simply river women. 40 But I'll stay on here forever Since I cannot bear to leave the velvet shadows When the desert sun goes down across the Snake. May Napier Burkhart (Photo courtesy of Peggy and Eldon Hauck). Letter from About Buckskin Bill: Buckskin Bill Sylvan Hart, better known as Buckskin .dill, is truly a legend in Work for part of Winter of 77 -78 his own time. Since coming to People generally want to know Idaho in 1935, Buckskin Bill has What I have been doing this winter. lived the life of a pioneer, alone on I missed seeing Jimmy Doolittle the Salmon River. Almost entirely who hunted elk at Quartz Springs self- sufficient, he depends on the in 15 degree weather at age 83. world outside the confines of his I always read a Greek poem a- wilderness sanctuary for sugar, bout Xenophon's Anatasis each raisins, rice, flour, oatmeal, tea and Winter. When he got up in the books. He generally has about fifty snow in his undergarments, it was dollars worth of these supplies fully as heroic as Doolittle's hunt - packed in once a year. ing• I made a trip out to Grangeville February 3 -11 to get a tumbler made for my new flintlock. I be- lieve I have a design that has never been used. In effect, the dragon - shaped lock seems to snap at its tail to produce fire. I want a rose- wood stock. The calibre is .75. It should take a year to complete. I made a couple of belt buckles while I had snow on the ground. I don't make anything to sell. This means I can take all the time I want to complete something. I spent about three weeks mak- ing a three gallon copper flagon. This pattern is universally seen in Russia, Normandy and various places around the world as a con- tainer for water, milk or even beer. Keats has a line: "There lay the portes in uneasy spread with a large flagon by his side ". I did a decora- tion on it in the common way to decorate armor in the Middle Ages. Cafega de Vaca is running down a mule deer in what is now Texas. The old deer has about had it and de Vaca is about to kill it with his flint knife. Estevan the Moor has run the deer all night because he can see better at that time. I have never run down deer but I have run elk in two or three feet of snow and as I got stronger the elk got so tired they were sprawling in the snow. It was too dark to shoot, so they escaped. I got some nice black walnut wood at Mackay Bar with very wide an- nual rings. Incidentally, the rings of bristlecone pine is the most ac- curate time table we have. From this wood, I make a 12" wide by 4' /a" deep bowl with two handles in the manner of a Greek Calyx. I boil the greenwood bowl for say 3 hrs. , let it dry and oil it with olive oil. I didn't even get any warpage. This is a dugout bowl and should easily last 100 years. Buckskin Bill Five Mile Creek 6 L-z t2 - AJ <' /_-J S Spawning grounds He was mauled "I by a bear This story is taken from' the files of the "Messenger," a Pocatello newspaper, dated Tuesday, Sept. 13, 1898: A MAN OF NERVE "Poor old Charlie Norton, whose death on Aug. 27 at the county hospital in this city was chronicled in our last issue, was one of the pioneers of the Salmon River and Custer, mining districts and was essentially a man of nerve. In the early days he was something of a bear hunter and many a cinnamon and silver -tip fell before his unerring aim. "It was about 10 years ago that he met a bear that ate him up and left him almost helpless and but the caricature of a man in appearance. He was prospecting in the mountains with but one companion out some 60 miles from Challis when he saw traces of a bear and followed it into some underbrush. "He located (the) bruin, took aim and brought him down, but at that very same instant a big silver -tip rose up beside him and struck him a blow in the face and broke both his jaws and literally crushed his face in. The bear then chewed him up, mangling him from head to foot and finally went off leaving him for dead. "Here his companion found him later, and finding he was still alive, fixed him up as comfortable as possible and started for Challis for help. It was 60 miles to Challis and by the time Norton's partner got back, the flies had gotten at him and blownhim and before they took him into camp they took about a quart of maggots from his face and head. A litter was slung between two horses and he was taken to Challis. He still hung onto life and the doctor was sent for 30 miles away. (This should read Custer instead of Challis.) "It seemed impossible that Mr. Norton should recover. The doctor said he couldn't, but went on and fixed him up as well as he could. It was found necessary to take out his whole lower jaw. Norton, however, went right on living and getting better. It developed after awhile that his face would not heal because of its being more or less torn every time he was fed. A hole was then cut on his neck, through which he was fed. His face, in the meantime, healed up. Then it was found impossible to heal the hole in his neck. "Finally Norton was sent to the hospital in Salt by Jeff Fee Lake and the hole in his neck was sewed up with silver wire and healed up. In the meantime, however, the contraction of his muscles of the face caused his mouth to close so tightly that he could not eat and his mouth had to be cut open time and again. It would always come together again in a short time and the operation would again have to be performed. All these operations were performed without the administration of ether or any other anaesthetic. "Finally, however, Norton left the hospital and went out with a party prospecting. Here his trouble commenced. His mouth grew shut and he couldn't eat. He begged his companions to cut his mouth open but they wouldn't do it, and finally Norton found a rock, whetted up his knife, pinning a pocket mirror to a stump, cut his mouth open himself and all was lovely again. "In the meanwhile, a cancer developed in Norton's face and in the last five years he had to have it cut out four times. He always insisted on going through the operations without the use of anaesthetics. It was just before the last operation of this kind a couple of years ago that he met Abe Pierce and was telling him that he was going to the hospital for another operation and as he ended his story he said: "And do you know, Abe I am getting to be a d - - --d baby. I kind of flinch when I think of it." "After his years of terrible suffering, after innumerable operations the old man's indomitable nerve was beginning to give away but he went through the operations bravely, and his will kept him up to the end. He died, like thousands of pioneers of this western country -- a county charge and long forgotten by his relatives, whose address he himself had even forgotten." The above article describes Charlie Norton, who some might say was a man of grit. Others might call him a stubborn old cuss. In the book from which the article was found, "The Middle Fork and the Sheepeater War," on page six you will find a dedication to the people of the past and the beautiful land that surrounded them. On the last line of the dedication Johnny Carrey and Cort Conley say it all, past and present, with the statement, "It was never easy: a heaven of a place to live and a hell of a place to make a living." Maybe Charlie Norton was willing to go through hell just to live one more precious day - -in heaven. Jeff Fee FLYINGAUGUST 1 y/5 CONTENTS /VOLUME 97 • NUMBER 2 Where one chance is all you get /page "Publishing Director EDWARD D. MUHLFELD Editor & Publisher ROBERT B. PARKE Creative Director BUD LOADER Senior Editors (CHARD L. COLLINS JOHN W. OLCOTT RICHARD B. WEEGHMAI West Coast Editor George C. Larson Art Director Art Davis Associate Editors ' 1110 Baxter, Thomas H. Blod rt Slepyan, Sally Wimer Production Editor-, - Jerry Sablo :` Editorial Assistant Anna Babij usan Kelly r' LYING, August 1975, Volume 97, Number 2. 4 Published Monthly at One Park Ave., New York, New York 10016 by Ziff -Davis Publishing Company. COPYRIGHT ©1975 I'' bird /Richard B. Weeghman 33 Aztec Evolution- -The life and times of a going success /Norbert Slepyan 81 One for the Money — Bell's 214B helicopter ...,bucks the twin- engine tide /Richard B. Weeghman 36 In Search of Lost Horizons —The winding, bumpy road to the IFR rating /Dee Mosteller 38 Bottoming Out —What to do when your learning curve takes a dive /George C. Larson 71 RMI: Easy Guider —It really isn't magic, but this instrument can ease navigation tasks like something supernatural /John W. Olcott 72 The Ifi't T of an Instru� ent-� _' i' . �._. - three into one and out co_mes RMI /George C. Larson mountains, a few pilots make regular work out of . m_ ost airmen wol ldn't dare fly /George C. Larson 6 Pro's Nest —Rule 1: The Captain Is Always Right /Thomas H. Block 45 IFR Insight— Threading the Needle /Richard L. Collins 66 1 Learned About Flying From That — Collision Course /AI McFarland 4 From the Tower e Case for Concorde 6 Flying Mail— Mooney -Eyed 10 On Top— Journey's End? 20 Calendar —Main Events 21 Product News — King's Move 22 Reporting Points —F -.5 26 Editorial —Bury the Elephant 04 Box Seat —Too Much rover /Cessna 206 in a wilderness strip. Photography by ,ussell Munson. COMPANY. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Tile �Cil��a� Rpm lieu, Their airways are valleys twisted by looming mountain walls. They fly into barely approachable airstrips. To these pilots, it's all in a day's flying, but it's really the stuff of legend. by George C. Larson photography by Russell Munson AVIATION could use a good story right about now, a story of grit and resolve in the accomplishment of a day's labor. We are not getting anywhere with plaintive whining about how difficult it is to hoof it halfway around the world in the front of a Boeing because the jet lag throws your body clock off; nobody is listening except those endless Washington committees, and those pro- ceedings are not fruit for folklore. We need a tale of callused hands and human brawn in contest with nature, doings that will stir our children. Our pilots must be a bit like Frodo in those Ring .stories: meager lads who are called to higher purpose by forces beyond their ken. They must rise to the challenge, stare death down until it blinks and emerge to shine larger than their beginnings. The machinery must be as near to living as ma- chines can be; it must have within it some force of virtue, a heroism that carries into the far realms of sorcery. The origins of such a legend are availa- ble to us —still fresh and echoing —in the Idaho mountains. In the early 1930s, the post office at Big Creek, Idaho let a contract for a winter mail route to a man who rode his horse through the snow until the drifts were too deep for the animal to negotiate without ex- hausting itself; the man would dismount and trek the remainder of the way to the post office on his snowshoes, the entire trip tak- ing a full day. It took him another full day to make it back to his route, which followed Big Creek and terminated at Cabin Creek; this became known as the Cabin Creek Route. By the mid- 1930s, it was apparent that more was needed, and an outfit in Mis- soula, Montana called Johnson Flying Serv- ice had airplanes available. In the winter, Johnson flew mail from Cascade to Big Creek Airport and to the post office at War- ren. It also flew supplies to what was then the Mackay Bar Mine, which had the only airport on the Salmon River between the town of Salmon, on the eastern end, and Lewiston, beyond the western extremity. There was a caretaker at Deadwood Reser- voir who got his mail and groceries twice a month through the services of Johnson, and the company also flew to Cabin Creek on occasion to deliver mail and freight. In the summers, Johnson picked up the entire op- eration and moved up the road to McCall Airport, from which it flew for the U.S. For- est Service. In the summers, the mail busi- ness fell off when roads opened up to allow surface travel. In 1945, Johnson left Cas- cade Airport for McCall; it has been there ever since. At about the same time, Dewey Moore's Airstrip, Vine 's Ranch, and the Tay- , (continued on page 56) FLYING — August 1975 53 ��"