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HomeMy Public PortalAbout2023-10-23 packetNOTICE OF MEETING AND TENTATIVE AGENDA1 iIndividuals should contact the ADA Coordinator at (573) 634-6570 to request accommodations or alternative formats as required under the Americans with Disabilities Act. Please allow 3 business days to process the request. Please call 573-634-6410 with questions regarding this agenda. City of Jefferson Environmental Quality Commission Regular Meeting Monday, October 23, 2023 ~ 1:00 PM City Hall, 320 E. McCarty Street, Jefferson City, Missouri ~ Boone Bancroft Room TO JOIN VIRTUALLY: https://jeffersoncity.webex.com/jeffersoncity/j.php?MTID=mc6ad0a4d6a554108521bd6109bc619cb CALL-IN PARTICIPATION AVAILABLE AT: 1-404-397-1516 MEETING NUMBER: 2484 042 5207 MEETING PASSWORD: 20231023 TENTATIVE AGENDA 1. Call to Order 2. Approval of Agenda 3. Approval of Minutes from August 28, 2023 4. New Business a. Lafayette Tree Removal 5. Old Business a. Residential Composting Program 6. Other Business a. Yard Waste Update b. Sustainability Report c. Oktoberfest Participation 7. Public Comment 8. Adjourn August 28, 2023 Commission Meeting Minutes Minutes City of Jefferson Environmental Quality Commission August 28, 2023 Commission Present Attendance Record Staff Present Keegan Evans 2 of 2 Dawn Kirchner, Planning and Protective Services Hannah Frevert 5 of 6 Rachel Senzee, Planning and Protective Services Katy Hagely 6 of 6 Amy Schroeder, Parks and Recreation Jeanne Jacobek 4 of 6 Mackenzie Job 5 of 6 Guests Mary Schantz 3 of 4 Mike Lester, City Council Stephi Smith, News Tribune City Council - Present Aaron Mealy 4 of 4 CALL TO ORDER Chair Mackenzie Job called the meeting to order at 1:02 pm. APPROVAL OF AGENDA Mackenzie entertained a motion to approve the agenda as published. Katy made a motion to approve the agenda. Keegan seconded the motion. The motion passed with all voting in favor. APPROVAL OF MINUTES Mackenzie entertained a motion to approve meeting minutes from August 28, 2023. Hannah made a motion to approve the minutes. Jeanne seconded the motion. The motion passed with all voting in favor. NEW BUSINESS No new business. OLD BUSINESS Rachel informed the commission that the City will be able to use SurveyMonkey for a residential composting survey. She asked for clarification from commission regarding the goals of the survey and the survey’s target audience. After discussion, she indicated that staff will review the commission- submitted questions and bring recommendations back to the group at the next meeting. OTHER BUSINESS Dawn reported that the next Ripple glass recycling bin is scheduled to be painted on Tuesday. She also has a meeting scheduled on Wednesday with Jefferson City School District to discuss the recycling bin design contest. An e-cycling event is scheduled for September 16 in the City Hall parking lot. Cole County Public Works is holding a tire recycling event on October 21. ADJOURNMENT With no other business, the meeting adjourned at 1:50 pm. Aerial view of north end of Lafayette St. Blue shaded area is being considered for tree removal. Oktoberfest Participation This section includes sample composting content from the following websites to hand out at the event https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6956 https://www.epa.gov/recycle/composting-home#:~:text=Composting%20is% 20a%20controlled%2C%20aerobic,crumbly%2C%20earthy%2Dsmelling% 20material. https://dnr.mo.gov/document-search/homeowners-composting-guide- pub0183/pub0183 https://cwmi.css.cornell.edu/smallscale.htm https://ilsr.org/home-composting/ Making and Using Compost Reviewed by David Trinklein Horticulture State Extension Specialist Division of Plant Sciences & Technology Compost is partially decomposed organic matter. It is dark and easily crumbled and has an earthy aroma. It is created by biological processes in which soil-inhabiting organisms break down plant tissue. When decomposition is complete, compost has turned to a dark-brown powdery material called humus. The processes occurring in a compost pile are similar to those that break down organic matter in soil. However, decomposition occurs much more rapidly in the compost pile because the environment can be made ideal for the microbes to do their work (Figure 1). Figure 1. A compost pile encourages natural decomposition of organic materials.   Why make compost? Gardeners often have difficulty disposing of leaves, grass clippings and other garden refuse, particularly in urban areas. Missouri law bans these materials from landfills, so finding environmentally sound ways to dispose of them has become even more important. These byproducts of the garden and landscape can be turned into useful compost with little more effort than it takes to bag and haul them away. Home composters avoid hauling or utility costs associated with centralized composting facilities and end up with a valuable soil conditioner or mulch for the landscape and garden. The value of compost Good compost consists primarily of decomposed or partially decomposed plant and animal residues but may also contain a small amount of soil. Compost improves both the physical condition and the fertility of the soil when added to the landscape or garden. It is especially useful for improving soils low in organic matter. Organic matter in compost improves heavy clay soils by binding soil particles together into “crumbs,” making the soil easier to work. Binding soil particles also helps improve aeration, root penetration and water infiltration and reduces crusting of the soil surface. In sandy soils, additional organic matter also helps with nutrient and water retention. Compost also increases the activity of soil microorganisms that release nutrients and other growth-promoting materials into the soil. Although compost contains nutrients, its greatest benefit is in improving soil characteristics. You should consider compost a valuable soil amendment rather than a fertilizer because additional fertilization may be necessary to obtain acceptable growth and yields. Compost also is a valuable mulching material for garden and landscape plants. It may be used as a top- dressing for lawns and, when it contains a small amount of soil, as part of a growing medium for houseplants or for starting seedlings. How compost forms Composting is a method of speeding natural decomposition under controlled conditions. Raw organic materials are converted to compost by a succession of organisms (Figure 2). During the first stages of composting, bacteria increase rapidly. Later, actinomycetes (filamentous bacteria), fungi and protozoans go to work. After much of the carbon in the compost has been used and the temperature of the pile has fallen, centipedes, millipedes, sowbugs, earthworms and other organisms continue the decomposition. As microorganisms decompose the organic materials, their heat of respiration causes the temperature in the pile to rise dramatically. The center of a properly made heap should reach a temperature of 110 to 140 degrees F in four to five days. At this time, the pile begins “settling,” which is a sign that the pile is working properly. The pH of the pile will be very acidic at first, at a level of 4.0 to 4.5. By the time the process is complete, the pH should rise to about 7.0 to 7.2. The heating in the pile kills some of the weed seeds and disease organisms. However, this happens only in areas where the most intense temperatures develop. In cooler sections toward the outside of the pile, some weed seeds or disease organisms may survive. So, proper turning is important to heat all parts of the pile. The organisms that break down the organic materials require large quantities of nitrogen. So, adding nitrogen fertilizer, or other materials that supply nitrogen, is necessary for rapid and thorough decomposition. During the breakdown period, the nitrogen is incorporated into the bodies of the microbes and is not available for plant use. This nitrogen is released when the decomposition is completed and the compost is returned to the garden. Figure 2. A succession of organisms decompose organic matter in compost.   What materials may be composted? Many types of organic materials can be used for compost. Possible materials include sod, grass clippings, leaves, hay, straw, weeds, manure, chopped corncobs, cornstalks, sawdust, shredded newspaper, wood ashes, hedge clippings and many kinds of plant refuse from the garden. If the compost is to be returned to the garden, leave out weed plants heavily laden with seeds. Even though some seeds will be killed during composting, those that survive might create a weed problem. Most kitchen scraps also may be used in the compost heap. Some items that should not be used are grease, fat, meat scraps and bones. These materials may attract dogs, rats or other animals. They also may develop an unpleasant odor during decomposition. Fats are slow to break down and greatly increase the time required before the compost can be used. Unless compost is either completely and thoroughly turned during its formation or allowed to remain unused for several years, diseased plants from the flower or vegetable garden should not be placed on the compost heap. Even though the heating during the compost formation may kill some diseases, some disease organisms may survive to be returned to the garden. Although animal manures are often good sources of nitrogen, they should be used with caution. Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling compost containing manure of any kind. The composting process The length of time necessary for the composting process depends on several conditions: Carbon-to-nitrogen ratio Surface area of particles Aeration Moisture Temperature Of the above, the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio is especially important. All organic material contains carbon and nitrogen. Carbon is a major component of the cellulose and lignin that give cell walls their strength. Nitrogen is found in proteins and many other compounds inside plant cells. The carbon-to-nitrogen ratio (C:N) of a material is an estimate of the relative amounts of these two elements it contains. The ratio is usually based on the percent dry weight of carbon and nitrogen in the material. A ratio of about 30:1 is ideal for the activity of the microbes in the compost. This balance can be achieved by controlling the materials included in the compost or by adding nitrogen either from fertilizer or from organic materials high in nitrogen, such as manure or grass clippings. Table 1 shows the approximate ratios for some materials commonly added to compost piles. The items at the top of the list are highest in nitrogen, and those at the bottom are highest in carbon. These ratios represent comparative weights. So, in the first example, 5 to 7 pounds of dry pig manure would contain about 1 pound of nitrogen, and near the other extreme, 500 pounds of sawdust might contain only 1 pound of nitrogen. The 30:1 ratio in compost is the most desirable to supply the microorganisms with the amount of both the carbon they need for energy and the nitrogen they need for protein synthesis so they can function efficiently and quickly. To estimate the C:N of a mixture, average the ratios of the individual materials. For example, a mixture of equal parts grass clippings and leaves might have a C:N of (20 + 50) ÷ 2 = 35. Table 1. Carbon-to-nitrogen ratios in various materials. Organic material C:N Hog manure 5 to 7:1 Poultry manure (fresh)10:1 Poultry manure (with litter)13 to 18:1 Vegetable wastes 12 to 20:1 Coffee grounds 20:1 Cattle manure 20:1 Grass clippings 12 to 25:1 Horse manure (fresh)25:1 Horse manure (with litter)30 to 60:1 Corn stalks 60:1 Straw 40 to 100:1 Bark 100 to 130:1 Paper 150 to 200:1 Wood chips, sawdust 200 to 500:1 Wood 700:1 Constructing the pile Before a compost pile is constructed, the decision must be made where to locate it and whether it will be contained in a structure or just heaped. Once those decisions have been made and the area is ready, the process of layering compost materials, as described below, may begin. Location Build the pile in a convenient but inconspicuous place. If the compost will be used mainly in the garden, then a location near the garden would be logical. Because the compost pile may need to be kept moist during dry weather, a convenient source of water should be available. But don’t locate the pile where water may stand. Excess moisture in the bottom of the pile can cause the process to stop or lead to odor problems. Locate the pile where occasional earthy odors are not likely to offend neighbors. A shaded area is generally desirable for best composting. If possible, however, do not locate the pile or structure close to trees. Tree roots may be attracted to the loose, moist organic material in the bottom. During summer, roots of some trees may invade the lower areas of the bin and make the compost difficult to dig and use. Containing the pile Although compost can be stacked in a heap, decomposition is best and space is used more efficiently when the compost is placed in some type of bin or enclosure (Figure 3). Air should be able to move through the sides of the structure. The pile may be round, square, rectangular or any other convenient shape. Pile turning and removal of finished compost will be easier if the structure has an open, removable or hinged side. Figure 3 A composter may be built from available materials. If the material is porous (e.g. wire mesh wrap), wrap the bin with weed- barrier fabric or perforated plastic sheeting to reduce moisture loss.   Heaps Making compost does not require a structure and can be done simply in a heap. However, heaps require more space. The minimum size of a heap should be 5 feet by 5 feet and 3 feet high. Materials can be added as they become available, but when the first heap is high enough, a second one should be started until the first has decomposed enough to be used. Heaps may be turned regularly or not at all. If they are not turned, the upper portions will not be totally decomposed and will have to be pulled off when the compost is used. Layering Compost piles develop best when built in layers (Figure 4). Layering is a good way to ensure that the materials are added in the proper proportion. Once several layers are formed, however, composting will be most rapid if the layers are mixed before making new layers. If available materials are limited, building a pile in this way may not be practical. When organic materials are accumulated rather slowly, stockpile them until enough are available to layer properly. The pile normally may be started directly on the ground. However, to provide the best aeration to the base and improve drainage, dig a trench across the center of the base and cover it with stiff hardware cloth before you begin the layers. Branches or brush may be placed on the bottom as another means of improving lower aeration, but because they will decompose more slowly than finer materials, they may interfere with removal of the finished compost. Firm each layer of organic material as it is added, but do not compact it so much that air cannot move freely through it. Lightly water each layer as it is added. The entire pile should be as wet as a well-wrung sponge. Achieving this result is easier if you water each layer of dry material while building the pile rather than trying to wet the entire pile after it is built. Every two to three layers, use a tool such as a pitchfork or spading fork to mix the layers thoroughly so the materials are evenly distributed. This practice speeds up decomposition. During construction of the pile, remember the C:N ratios and that the pile needs about one pound of actual nitrogen for each 30 pounds of lightly moist organic matter for best decomposition. Figure 4. Proper layering in a compost bin.   First layer — organic materials Begin the pile by placing a 6- to 8-inch layer of organic matter in the enclosed area. Shredded or chopped materials decompose faster, so if a shredder is available, run coarse organic matter through it. A machete and chopping block are useful for processing brushy yard trimmings. Materials that tend to mat, such as grass clippings, should either be placed in layers only 2 to 3 inches thick or mixed with coarser materials for thicker additions. After the organic layer is built, moisten but do not soak it. Second layer — fertilizer or manure Over the layer of plant material, add a layer of a material high in nitrogen or a sprinkling of a high-nitrogen garden fertilizer. If animal manure is used, a layer 1 to 2 inches thick should be satisfactory. If organic materials high in nitrogen, such as grass clippings, are used, layer them about 4 inches thick. Although adding grass clippings or other materials that have been treated with herbicides may cause concern, most pesticides break down quickly in a compost pile. If garden fertilizers such as 12-12-12 are used as a nitrogen source, use about 1 cup per 25 square feet of the top surface of each layer. When using fertilizer materials, about 0.8 ounce of actual nitrogen per bushel of organic matter such as leaves is needed. For example, one cubic yard (3 feet x 3 feet x 3 feet) of leaves contains about 23 bushels and thus would require about 18 ounces (1.1 pounds) of nitrogen or about 5.5 pounds of a fertilizer containing 20 percent N. To avoid overwhelming the microorganisms, add fertilizer to the pile in several doses as the pile is turned. More uniform distribution on each layer can be obtained if a water-soluble fertilizer is mixed with water and sprinkled over the surface. Table 2 shows the amount of each material needed to apply 1 pound of actual nitrogen. Do not add lime to the pile. Adding ground limestone to a compost pile was once thought necessary, but it is no longer considered to be so because the organisms function well with a pH of between 4.2 and 7.2. Compost naturally becomes less acid as it matures. Adding lime helps convert ammonium nitrogen to ammonia gas, which can create an odor problem as it escapes from the pile and can reduce the nutrient content of the finished compost. Adding lime may also cause the pH of the finished compost to be higher than optimal for plant growth. Table 2. Quantities of various nitrogen sources required to provide 1 pound of nitrogen Nitrogen source % Nitrogen Ounces to apply for 1 pound N Ammonium nitrate 33 48 Calcium nitrate 15 106 Urea 46 34 Dried blood 12 133 Fish meal 10 160   Third layer — soil. Next, add a layer of soil or sod about 1 inch thick Soil contains microorganisms that help start the decomposition process. If an adequate source of soil is not available, a layer of finished compost may be used as a soil substitute. Compost activators may also be used to introduce organisms into the pile. Additional layers Continue to develop and alternate the layers — organic, fertilizer/manure, soil — until the pile is 3 to 5 feet high. Remember, after every two to three layers, mix the layers thoroughly to evenly distribute the materials. Fast and slow composting methods The speed at which compost forms depends on the conditions already discussed. Controlling these factors, along with frequent turning of the compost, speeds up the process. But many gardeners are content with the slower, more traditional methods that require less attention. Fast method Fast composting methods depend on the use of turning units. They can create good compost in as little as six weeks, depending on how the compost pile is managed. Materials that can be used include nonwoody yard waste, nonfat kitchen waste and similar materials. Structures or containers that allow frequent, easy turning are essential. Turning units for the fast method are of two general types: a series of bins (usually three) that allow manual turning of the compost from one bin into the next (Figures 5 and 6); or a rotating, horizontally mounted drum, such as a 55-gallon barrel. The materials for fast composting should be added in larger amounts rather than frequent additions of small amounts. Thus, organic matter should be collected until there is enough to properly fill a barrel composter or other unit, such as a 3-square-foot bin. To reduce odor problems, grass clippings should be spread to dry before stockpiling, and food wastes should be covered or buried in the compost. Figure 5. Compost bin constructed from landscape timbers. To turn the compost, disassemble the bin and restack the timbers close by; then fork the compost into the new enclosure.   Traditional or slow method In the traditional, slower method of composting, material may be added to the enclosure at any time. Turning can help but is not required. When only one unit is developed, finished compost may be taken from the bottom while new materials are still being added to the top. Two bins are always better where space permits because one bin can be allowed to mature while new materials are being added to the other. Woven wire fencing, chicken wire, chain link, hardware cloth, wood slat fencing (snow fence), concrete blocks, bricks or lumber can be used to enclose the compost heap. Fencing wires need corner supports although some can be used to make cylinders that need little or no support. If woven wire fencing is too loose to contain finer materials, line the enclosure with plastic that contains some aeration holes to keep the pile neat and speed decomposition. The plastic lining will also prevent excessive drying of the vertical pile surfaces. Bricks or concrete blocks may be stacked without mortar. Leave 1/2-inch spaces between them to allow adequate air movement through the sides. Line up the holes facing upward as you stack, and drive metal posts down through a few of the holes to make the bin more stable (Figure 6).   Figure 6 A three-compartment turning unit constructed with concrete blocks and metal ties.   Lumber, whether new or scrap, is suitable for sides of compost bins. Allow enough space between the boards for air movement. Lumber is gradually ruined by exposure to the damp compost, and boards occasionally have to be replaced as they decay. Discarded pallets can be used to make an inexpensive yet durable composting enclosure. Care of the pile Decomposition will occur even if a compost pile is ignored after it has been built, but it will occur at a slower rate. Adding water to maintain moist conditions and turning the pile to improve aeration will speed the process. To check the moisture content of the pile, squeeze a handful of compost. If a few drops of water can be squeezed out, moisture is about right. If no drops fall, the pile is too dry. If water trickles out, the pile is too wet. Cover the pile with plastic or other materials during wet weather to avoid excessive moisture buildup. A properly built pile should develop a temperature of at least 110 degrees F at the center in about a week during summer or up to a month in cooler seasons. When that temperature is reached, the pile should be opened, compacted materials should be loosened, and the pile should be turned or stirred so that the material previously on the top and sides is moved to the center. During warm weather, the pile may need another turning after a second week. The optimum temperature in an active compost pile is 135 to 140 degrees F. Compost piles occasionally reach temperatures as high as 170 degrees F — hot enough to kill some of the microorganisms. This usually happens when excessive amounts of wet, high-nitrogen materials are added to the pile. The rate of heat buildup and decomposition also will depend on external temperatures. In winter, little decomposition occurs except in the center of large piles. Piles may be turned by slicing through them with a spade and turning over each slice. The main objectives of turning are to aerate the pile and to shift materials from the outside closer to the center, where they may also be heated and decomposed. Moisten dry spots in the pile by spraying with water during turning. As materials decompose, the pile heats up and should also shrink, eventually becoming no more than half its original height. Often, the pile’s volume may shrink by 70 to 80 percent. Compost is ready to use when it is dark brown and crumbly and has an earthy smell. For a very fine product, run the compost through a ½-inch screen and either use the coarser material for mulch or return it to the pile for continued decomposition with other materials. Diagnosing composting problems 1. The pile is producing a bad odor. Cause: The pile may be too wet, too tight, or both. Turn it to loosen and allow better air exchange in the pile. If the pile is too wet, add dry new materials as you turn it. Odors also may indicate that animal products are in the compost pile. 2. No decomposition seems to be taking place. Cause: The pile is too dry. Moisten the materials while turning the pile. 3. The compost is moist enough and the center is warm but not hot enough for complete breakdown. Cause: The pile is probably too small. If the pile is not small, more nitrogen may be needed. If the pile is small, collect more materials or add those available to make a larger pile. Turn and mix the old ingredients that may have only slightly decomposed into the new pile. 4. The heap is moist and sweet smelling, with some decomposition, but still does not heat enough. Cause: There is not enough nitrogen available for proper decomposition. Mix a nitrogen source such as fresh grass clippings, manure or fertilizer into the pile. Using compost When compost is ready to use, it should be dark and crumbly, and you should not be able to recognize the original composted items (Figure 7). If compost is not used promptly, it still makes a good soil amendment, but nitrogen may be lost through leaching. Figure 7. Well-decomposed compost ready for use.   Fast composting may produce good compost in three to eight weeks. Traditional composting methods will produce a product in three to nine months, depending on the types of organic materials used, temperatures, and how often the compost is turned. In some cases, screening compost through a 1-inch wire mesh will help sort out incompletely decomposed materials before use. Twigs decompose slowly, and if they have become a part of the debris, they may have to be removed from finished compost to be returned to the heap. Compost is also very suitable to use for potting houseplants or starting many types of seeds. Recent research has shown that microorganisms found in mature compost can actually suppress plant diseases such as those causing “damping off ” as effectively as fungicides. Generally, best results are obtained when compost is mixed with other materials such as perlite and vermiculite, with about 30 percent of the volume being compost. Compost should be added annually if you are using it to build good soil. The best time to add compost to the vegetable or flower garden is during fall or spring tilling. You can add it to the soil when planting trees, shrubs, annuals or perennials. Compost also is an excellent mulch or top-dressing around flowers, vegetables, shrubs and trees. If used as mulch, the compost need not be completely finished. Compost may be used as a lawn top-dressing, but it should not be applied more than a ¼ inch thick. For this purpose, the compost should be screened so that only the finer particles are used. © 1993 to 2023 Curators of the University of Missouri (https://www.umsystem.edu/), all rights reserved, DMCA (https://www.umsystem.edu/ums/copyright/) and other copyright information (https://missouri.edu/copyright). University of Missouri Extension (/) is an equal opportunity/access/affirmative action/pro-disabled and veteran employer (/equal-opportunity- ada-institution/). What is Composting? Composting is a controlled, aerobic (oxygen-required) process that converts organic materials into a nutrient-rich soil amendment or mulch through natural decomposition. .The end product is compost – a dark, crumbly, earthy-smelling material Microorganisms feed on the materials added to the compost pile during the composting process. They use carbon and nitrogen to grow and reproduce, water to digest materials, and oxygen to breathe. You can compost at home using food scraps from your kitchen and dry leaves and woody material from your yard. Why Compost at Home? Additional Resources If you are a community looking to support your constituents in their eorts to compost at home, or wish to increase participation in a curbside collection program, you may be interested in the following resource: Composting Food Scraps in Your Community: A Social Marketing Toolkit. <https://epa.gov/sustainable- management-food/forms/composting-food-scraps-your-community-social-marketing-toolkit> Composting is nature’s way of recycling. It is one of the most powerful actions we can take to reduce our trash, address climate change, and build healthy soil. By turning our food scraps and yard trim into compost, we can transform our waste streams into a beneficial, value-added soil amendment and use it to protect the environment and create resilient communities. Composting is a resourceful way to recycle the food scraps and yard trim you generate at home all year and manage your waste more sustainably. You reduce the volume of materials that might otherwise be disposed in landfills or trash incinerators - leaves, grass clippings, yard trim, and food scraps – and prevent powerful greenhouse gases from being emitted into the atmosphere. Composting involves minimal eort, equipment, expense, and expertise, and can be fun. You save money by producing a free, high quality soil amendment – compost, which reduces your use of fertilizer and pesticides. You can use your compost to build healthier soil, prevent soil erosion, conserve water, and improve plant growth in your garden and yard. Options for Composting at Home There are dierent ways to compost at home: Backyard composting with a pile or a bin you can build yourself or purchase. Vermicomposting (worm composting) with a bin. If you don’t have an outside space for composting, consider participating in a local community-based composting program, which may collect your food scraps or have a designated location where you can drop them o. Alternatively, vermicomposting can be done indoors (more information is below). Composting in Your Backyard Ingredients for Composting The ingredients for composting include a proper balance of the following materials: Carbon-rich materials (“browns”) can include dry leaves, plant stalks, and twigs. The carbon-rich materials provide food for the microorganisms to consume and digest. Nitrogen-rich materials (“greens”) include grass clippings and food scraps. The nitrogen-rich materials heat up the pile to create ideal conditions for the material to breakdown. Water (moisture). Air (oxygen). What You Can Compost  What You Can Compost at Home What to Avoid Composting at Home Nitrogen-Rich Material (“Greens”) Meat, fish and bones Food and vegetable scraps Cheese and dairy products Most grass clippings and yard trim Pet waste and cat litter Coee grounds and paper filters Produce stickers Paper tea bags (no staples)Fats, oils and greases Eggshells (crushed)Glossy paper Treated or painted wood Carbon-Rich Materials (“Browns”)Aggressive weeds/weeds with seeds Dry leaves Diseased and pest-infested plants What You Can Compost at Home What to Avoid Composting at Home Plant stalks and twigs Compostable food ser vice ware and compostable bags* Shredded paper (non-glossy, not colored) and shredded brown bags Cooked food (small amounts are fine) Shredded cardboard (no wax coating, tape, or glue)Herbicide treated plants Untreated wood chips Dr yer lint *Backyard composting piles do not generally reach high enough temperatures to fully decompose certified compostable food ser vice ware and bags. These items are designed to be composted at commercial composting facilities. Steps for Backyard Composting 1. Determine how you will collect and store your browns and greens. Collect and store your fruit and vegetable scraps in a closed container on your kitchen counter, under your sink, or in your fridge or freezer. For browns, set aside an area outside to store your steady supply of leaves, twigs, or other carbon-rich material (to mix with your food scraps). 2. Set aside space for your compost pile and build or buy a bin. Choose a space in your yard for your compost pile that is easily accessible year- round and has good drainage. Avoid placing it right up against a fence and ensure there is a water source nearby. Your compost pile will break down in sun or shade. Next, choose a type of bin for your pile. Bins can be constructed from materials such as wire, wood, and cinder blocks. They can also be enclosed and include barrels and tumblers. 3. Prepare your ingredients for composting. Before adding your browns and greens to the pile, tr y to chop and break them up into smaller pieces (e.g., corn cobs, broccoli stalks, and other tough food scraps). Doing so will help the materials in the pile break down faster. 4. How to build your compost pile. Start your pile with a four- to six-inch layer of bulky browns such as twigs and wood chips. This layer will absorb extra liquids, elevate your pile and allow air to circulate at the base of the pile. Then layer your greens and browns like lasagna. If needed, add a little water to dampen the pile. Having the right proportions of ingredients in your compost pile will provide the composting microorganisms the carbon, nitrogen, oxygen, and moisture they need to break down the material into finished compost. When adding browns and greens to your pile, add at least two to three times the volume of browns (such as dry leaves) to the volume of greens (such as food scraps). Always ensure your food scraps are covered by four to eight inches of dry leaves or other browns. Air and water are the other key ingredients in your pile. To ensure air circulation, add enough browns and turn your compost occasionally. To maintain moisture in your pile, ensure your combined materials have the consistency of a wrung-out sponge. 5. Maintain your compost pile. As the materials in your compost pile begin to decompose, the temperature of the pile will initially begin to rise, especially in the center. A backyard pile, if well maintained, can reach temperatures of 130° to 160° F. High temperatures help reduce the presence of pathogens and weed seeds. Turning and mixing your pile from time to time will help speed up the decomposition process and aerate the pile. Use a garden fork to turn the outside of the pile inward. Monitor your pile for moisture, odor, and temperature and make adjustments as needed. a. If the pile is too dr y, activity in the pile will slow or cease. Moisten the pile and turn it. (Refer to the note above about maintaining moisture in your pile.) b. If the pile has a bad odor, it may be too wet or need more air circulation. Add more browns/dry material to the pile and turn the pile. c. If the pile is not heating up, mix in greens and turn the pile. 6. Harvest your finished compost. When your compost pile is no longer heating up aer mixing, and when there are no visible food scraps, allow your pile to cure, or finish, for at least four weeks. You can relocate the oldest compost at the bottom of the pile to a separate area to cure or stop adding materials to your pile. Aer curing, your pile will have shrunk to about one-third of its original size. Compost in a well-maintained pile will be finished and ready for use in about three to five months. Le untended, a pile may take a year to decompose. The compost will look dark, loose, and crumbly and smell like fresh soil. Most, if not all, of the materials that went into the compost pile should be decomposed. Screen or si your finished compost to filter out materials that didn’t break down - twigs, fruit pits, eggshells, and items like produce stickers and plastic. (You can make a homemade screener out of ¼ inch hardware cloth.) Pits, eggshells, etc. that you sied out can be added back into the active pile or to a new pile. Avoiding Rodents Compost piles that are well constructed and maintained properly should not attract pests or rodents. If using a bin, it is important to reinforce the bin with a lid and potentially a floor. There should be no holes or gaps in your bin that are larger than ¼ inch. Maintain the proper ratio of materials in your pile: two to three parts carbon-rich material (browns) to one part nitrogen-rich material (greens). Ensure you cover and bury your food scraps in your pile. Do not add meat, dair y, or greasy foods to your pile. Worm Composting (Vermicomposting) Worm composting, or vermicomposting, is another method of composting you can do at home. It takes up little space, the materials are simple and inexpensive, and it can be done indoors or outdoors. You will need a container or bin, bedding material, worms, and food scraps. If your worm bin is properly maintained, it should not emit odors or attract pests. The resulting product is vermicompost, a soil amendment. Steps for Vermicomposting 1. Make or buy a worm bin. You can purchase a worm bin or make your own of untreated wood or plastic storage bins. The bin should have a tight-fitting lid and be a dark color to keep out light. If using plastic storage containers, drill air holes around the upper sides of one bin near the lid, and drainage holes on the bottom of the same bin. Place the bin with the drilled holes inside the other bin. (The bottom bin will catch any liquid that drains out of the top bin.) 2. Choose a space for your worm bin. You can keep your worm bin indoors (e.g., under a sink, in a closet or basement) or outdoors in the shade. If your bin is outdoors (e.g., garage, carport, porch, deck, or apartment balcony), insulate the bin with blankets, straw, or other materials to keep it warm during colder months. You want to maintain a bin temperature of 59° to 77° F; however, the worms can sur vive at 32° to 95° F if they have at least four inches of bedding. 3. Materials for your bin. a. Worms – Of the 9,000 species of earthworms, only seven are suitable for vermicomposting. One of the most commonly used is the “red wriggler” or Eisenia fetida. It is essential to use a suitable species. Do not use worms you might find outdoors or purchase at a bait shop. Begin your bin with one pound (about 1,000) of worms. Purchase them from a worm grower or find a neighbor in your community who has a vermicomposting bin and can give you some. b. Bedding – Shred or tear non-glossy newspaper, oice paper, cardboard, or dry leaves and soak the bedding material for 10 minutes. Wring it out so it feels like a moist sponge. Place it in your bin and flu it up. Fill the bin almost halfway with the moist bedding and then add a handful of soil. c. Food – You can feed your worms most fruit and vegetables scraps, coee grounds and paper filters, crushed eggshells, paper tea bags (without staples), and crushed eggshells. Avoid citrus fruits, odorous foods like onions and garlic, meat, dairy products, greasy foods, bones, and pet waste. Chop up scraps into small pieces before adding them to the bin to allow for faster decomposition. 4. Start your bin and feed your worms. Place worms on top of the bedding in the bin. Once the worms have settled in the bin, add some food scraps on the surface of the bedding. Each time you add food scraps, make sure to cover them with two inches of bedding. Adding the proper ratio of materials to the bin and covering them is important. Worms eat about 25 percent of their weight each day. As worms reproduce quickly, you can increase the amount you feed them. Always ensure the food scraps have been eaten before adding more. 5. Harvest and use your vermicompost. Aer three to six months, you will be able to harvest your vermicompost, or worm castings, at the bottom of your worm bin. Vermicompost doesn’t need to cure and can be used immediately or stored for future use. Benets of Using Your Finished Compost You can add compost to your flower and vegetable beds, window boxes, and container gardens; incorporate it into tree beds; mix it with potting soil for indoor plants; or spread it on top of the soil on your lawn. Compost can be used as a soil amendment or as a mulch. A s a soil amendment, mix in two to four inches of compost to the top six to nine inches of your soil. A s a mulch, loosen the top two to three inches of soil and add a three-inch layer of compost on the surface, a few inches away from plant stems and tree trunks. Adding finished compost to your soil : Improves the structure and health of your soil by adding organic matter. Helps the soil retain moisture and nutrients. Attracts beneficial organisms to the soil and reduces the need for pesticides and fertilizers. Reduces the potential for soil erosion. Sequesters carbon in the soil. Builds resiliency to the impacts of climate change. Additional Resources for Home Composting Basics of Home Composting and Other Resources <https://ilsr.org /home-composting /> (Institute for Local Self Reliance; ILSR). Composting, Grasscycling, and Composting with Worms <https://www.oregonmetro.gov/sites/default/files/2014/10/29/2010_home_composting_booklet.pdf> (Oregon Metro). Guide for Local Governments to Encourage Home Composting <https://ilsr.org /home- composting /> (ILSR). Infographics: “Compost Impacts More Than You Think” <https://ilsr.org /compost- impacts-posters/> and “How Composting Combats the Climate Crisis” <https://ilsr.org /compost-climate/> (ILSR). Home Composting Guide (in Spanish) <https://zerowaste.dc.gov/sites/default/files/dc/sites/zerowaste/home%20composting_spanish_final.pdf> (District of Columbia Department of Public Works). Resources for Backyard Composting <https://cwmi.css.cornell.edu/smallscale.htm> (Cornell Waste Management Institute). Steps for Starting Composting at Home and Choosing a Bin Type <https://scdhec.gov/sites/default/files/library/or-1705.pdf> (South Carolina Oice of Solid Waste Reduction and Recycling). Vermicomposting Guide and Troubleshooting Tips <https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/worms- can-recycle-your-garbage> and Resources for Households <https://composting.ces.ncsu.edu/vermicomposting-2/vermicomposting-for-households/> (North Carolina State Extension). Contact Us <https://epa.gov/recycle/forms/contact-us-about-reduce-reuse-recycle> to ask a question, provide feedback, or report a problem. 06/07/2017 PUB0183 (/) Homeowners’ Composting Guide - PUB0183 Waste Management Program fact sheet Division of Environmental Quality Director: Kyra Moore Compost is a natural fertilizer that can be added to soil to help retain moisture, feed plants, improve the soil around trees and shrubs and top dress lawns. Compost stimulates plant growth through time release nutrients. It also protects the landscape against weather extremes, especially drought, by keeping soils warmer in winter and cooler in summer. Organic matter conserves water by loosening clay soils and binding sandy soils. The healthy soil ecosystem fosters rapid decay of grass clippings, eventually enhancing the soil food chain that supports the wild bird population. By using food scraps and yard waste to make compost, we keep those materials out of our landfills, where they take up valuable space and release methane, a greenhouse gas. Residents can support composting by becoming compost users, promoting resource recovery by stimulating the market for compost. Using compost rather than chemical fertilizers reduces nitrogen runoff, protecting our lakes and streams. Composting Basics With these principles in mind, everyone can make excellent use of their organic yard waste. Biology The compost pile is really a teeming microbial farm. Bacteria start the process of decaying organic matter, breaking down plant tissue. They are also the most numerous and effective composters. Fungi and protozoans soon join the bacteria and, somewhat later in the cycle, centipedes, millipedes, beetles and earthworms do their part. Surface Area The more surface area the microorganisms have to work on, the faster the materials will decompose. It's like a block of ice in the sun - slow to melt when it's large, but melting very quickly when broken into smaller pieces. Chopping your garden wastes with a shovel or machete, or running them through a shredding machine or lawn mower, will speed the composting process. Materials Anything growing in your yard is potential food for these tiny decomposers. Carbon and nitrogen, from the cells of dead plants and dead microbes, fuel their activity. The microorganisms use the carbon in leaves or woodier wastes as an energy source. Nitrogen provides the microbes with the raw element of proteins to build their bodies. Everything organic has a ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N) in its tissues, ranging from 500:1 for sawdust, to 15:1 for table scraps. A C:N ratio of 30:1 is ideal for the activity of compost microbes. Fresh grass clippings, with a C:N ratio of 20:1, have too much nitrogen. Brown tree leaves have too little: 40:1. The proper ratio of grass to leaves may vary but should not exceed 1 part grass for 1 part leaves. Layering can be useful in arriving at these proportions, but a complete mixing of ingredients is preferable for the composting process. Other materials, such as weeds and garden wastes, can also be used. Generally, brown materials such as fallen leaves and sawdust are high in carbon, while green materials such as grass clippings and weeds are high in nitrogen. If you save your fall leaves in bags or piles, they will provide an excellent source of carbon to mix with your grass clippings the following spring and summer. Though the C:N ratio of 30:1 is ideal for a fast, hot compost, a higher C:N ratio (i.e. 50:1) will be adequate for a slower compost. Volume A large compost pile will insulate itself and hold the heat of microbial activity. Its center will be warmer than its edges. Piles smaller than 3 feet cubed (27 cu. ft.) will have trouble holding this heat, while piles larger than 5 feet cubed (125 cu. ft.) don't allow enough air to reach the microbes at the center. These proportions are of importance only if your goal is a fast, hot compost. Moisture and Aeration Virtually all life on earth needs a certain amount of water and air to sustain itself. The microbes in the compost pile are no different. They function best when the compost materials are about as moist as a wrung-out sponge. Extremes of sun or rain can disrupt the moisture balance in your pile. Therefore, you may need to add water to your compost pile if it is too dry or cover the pile if it is receiving too much moisture. It is also important for compost materials to receive adequate aeration. Compost piles comprised primarily of grass clippings do not allow air to circulate through the pile. By mixing leaves or small limbs and twigs with your grass clippings, you provide spaces for air to circulate through the pile. Time and Temperature Generally speaking, the hotter the pile, the faster the composting. If you use materials with a proper C:N ratio, provide a large amount of surface area, a sufficient volume and see that moisture and aeration are adequate, you will have a hot, fast compost (hot enough to burn your hand!). If you just want to deal with your yard waste in an inexpensive, easy way, the holding unit (discussed on the inside) will serve you well. How to Compost Choose Your Method  Passive composting bins are simple containers or open piles for yard wastes and are the least labor and time-consuming way to compost. For building plans and ideas, see Wood and Wire Cage-Type Composting Bin - PUB0213 (/document-search/wood-wire-cage-type-composting- bin-pub0213/pub0213) and Circle Compost Bin - PUB1085 (/document-search/circle- compost-bin-pub1085/pub1085). Which Wastes?  Non-woody yard wastes are the most appropriate. How? Place the holding unit or pile where it is most convenient. As weeds, grass clippings, leaves and harvest remains from garden plants are collected, they can be added to the unit or pile. Chopping or shredding wastes, alternating high-carbon with high-nitrogen materials, and providing adequate moisture and aeration will all speed the composting process. Advantages and Disadvantages: For yard wastes, a holding unit or pile is the simplest method. The unit or pile is portable; it can be moved to wherever needed in the garden. The method can take from six months to two years to compost organic materials, so you only need to be patient. Variations: Holding units can be made of circles or hardware cloth, old wooden pallets or wood and wire. Sod can also be composted with or without a holding unit by turning sections of it over, making sure there is adequate moisture and covering it with black plastic. For aesthetic reasons, the open pile should be placed in a place inconspicuous to you and your neighbors. Active composting bins are a series of three or more bins that allow wastes to be turned on a regular schedule. Turning units are most appropriate for gardeners with a large volume of yard waste and the desire to make a high-quality compost. For building plans and ideas, see Wood and Wire Stationary 3-Bin System - PUB0214 (/document-search/wood-wire-stationary-3-bin- system-pub0214/pub0214). Which Wastes? Non-woody yard wastes are appropriate. How? Alternate layers of high-carbon and high-nitrogen materials to about a 30:1 ratio. Add more nitrogen materials if the pile doesn't get hot, and keep the pile as moist as a damp sponge. Check the pile temperature regularly. When the heat decreases substantially (5 to 10 days), turn the pile into the next bin. Then make a new pile in the original bin. Repeat the process each time the pile in the first bin cools. After two weeks in the third bin, the compost should be ready for the garden use. See the Rodale Guide to Composting in your library for more information on hot composting. Advantages and Disadvantages: This method produces a high-quality compost in a short time but requires more effort and space than a holding unit. Variations: The unit can be built of wood, concrete blocks or a combination of wood and wires. Another type of turning unit is the barrel composter, which tumbles the wastes for aeration. Choose Your Materials Some food wastes that may be composted with your yard waste are vegetable and fruit scraps, coffee grounds (including the filter), tea leaves and tea bags and eggshells. Yard wastes that can be composted include: Grass clippings. Leaves. Small twigs. Flowers. Non-spreading weeds. Old plants/potting soil. Wood chips. Some organic wastes that should not be composted include: Meat, fish or dairy products. Diseased or insect infested plants. Weeds gone to seed. Weeds that spread by runners (morning glory, quack grass, buttercup...). Dog and cat wastes. Large branches. Pressure treated, painted or preserved lumber. Troubleshooting The following chart is a guide to more efficient composting using a turning unit. Symptom Problem Solution Compost has bad odor Not enough air Turn the pile to loosen it. The center of the pile is dry Not enough water Moisten materials while turning the pile. Compost is damp and warm in the middle but nowhere else.Too small Collect more material and mix the old ingredients into a new pile. The heap is damp and sweet- smelling but still will not heat up. Lack of nitrogen Mix in a nitrogen source like fresh manure, bloodmeal or ammonium sulfate. Using Compost Compost can be used to enrich the flower and vegetable garden, to improve the soil around trees and shrubs, as a soil amendment for house plants and planter boxes and when screened, as part of a seed-starting mix or lawn top-dressing. Before they decompose, chipped woody wastes make excellent mulch or path material. After they decompose, these same woody wastes will add texture to garden soils. Just as fresh organic matter can be used as a mulch, so can compost at any stage of maturity. Spread around shrubs, trees and in the garden, compost can be used as a concentrated mulch. Most people, however, believe once the time and effort has been invested to make a true compost, it is best to use it in ways other than as a mulch. Like some wines and cheeses, compost improves with age. For a person unfamiliar with the composting process, it is often difficult to tell when compost is "cured" or ready to use. Fresh compost reacts with soils differently than well-aged compost and should be used with discretion. Uncured compost mixed directly into gardens or planter mixes can "burn" plants through a stress condition called "phytotoxicity." Fresh compost, like fresh manure, can also rob the soil of nitrogen temporarily while it finishes its curing process. If the compost looks dark, crumbles in the hand, can be screened through a 1/2 inch screen, and has a pleasant odor, it is probably "cured." Age is not a good indication of stability since the rate of decomposition is determined by nutrient balance, mixing, moisture and aeration. Some composts from active processes are more stable at one month than many stockpiles years old. Aging a compost an additional six months even after it seems cured is a good insurance policy. Stable compost can be blended into soil mixes and is suitable for most outdoor planting projects. It is typically mixed with other ingredients such as peat moss, shredded bark, sand, or loamy topsoil when used as an outdoor planter mix. Mixing ratios vary, but 10% compost is considered to be a minimum, 30% optimum and 50% maximum in planting shrubs and trees. Stable and cured compost probably has its greatest value when rototilled directly into the soil. One cubic yard of compost covers 108 square feet at three inches, 216 square feet at two inches and 324 square feet at one inch. The rule of thumb is to spread compost no more than one-third the depth of the rototiller. A one-inch layer of compost should be tilled in three inches, a two- inch layer tilled in 6 inches, and a three-inch layer tilled in nine inches. Two or more passes with the tiller helps blend the compost with the topsoil and break up any clumps of material. Nothing in this document may be used to implement any enforcement action or levy any penalty unless promulgated by rule under chapter 536 or authorized by statute. For more information Waste Management Program Division of Environmental Quality P.O. Box 176 Jefferson City, MO 65102-0176 United States Main 573-751-5401 (tel:573-751-5401) Toll-free 800-361-4827 (tel:800-361-4827) Fax 573-526-3902 (tel:573-526-3902) wmp@dnr.mo.gov (mailto:wmp@dnr.mo.gov) CWMI Home > Small Scale or Backyard Composting Small Scale or Backyard Composting This page provides links to educational resources aimed at both people interested in composting at their homes, schools, or businesses and others who want to promote small scale composting. A significant fraction of the solid waste generated in the United States is organic material that can be recycled through small scale composting. There are many advantages to this strategy of waste management. Households, businesses and institutions may save money by composting items such as food scraps and yard trimmings while sending less waste to landfills and incinerators. In addition, small scale composting is often the most environmentally sound way of recycling organic materials. The finished compost is a good soil amendment for a variety of gardening and landscape uses. Health Considerations. Health concerns relating to compost are dependent both on the individual and on the material being composted. Dog and cat manures can contain harmful pathogens and should be avoided. While few human pathogenic organisms are found in vegetative wastes, normal sanitary measures (i.e., washing hands before touching food, eyes, etc.) are important. Although most people are unlikely to have any problems, there are a few concerns which place some individuals at risk. Just as individuals vary in their resistance to disease, a few individuals may be particularly sensitive to some of the organisms in compost. The high populations of many different species of molds and fungi in an active compost process can cause allergic responses in some people, though most experience no adverse reaction. One of these fungal species, Aspergillus fumigatus, can infect the respiratory system of a sensitive person who is heavily exposed. Conditions that may predispose individuals to infection or an allergic response include: a weakened immune system, allergies, asthma, some medications such as antibiotics and adrenal cortical hormones, or a punctured eardrum. People with these conditions should avoid turning compost piles or take precautions to minimize exposure. To minimize these potential risks, common OSHA approved dust masks can be worn under dry and dusty conditions, especially when the compost is being turned. If, following these precautions, individuals still develop an infection or have an allergic reaction to compost, they should consult a medical professional. Composting at Home - The Green and Brown Alternative. 12-page fact sheet shows how to separte and collect organic residuals, and how to choose a compost unit. 2011. Compost Education Program of Cornell Cooperative Extension of Tompkins County. http://ccetompkins.org/compost/ COMPOST: Truth or Consequences is a 15-minute video using a quiz show format to present common questions. It shows home composters learning how to provide the right conditions for composting without problems. User's Guide included. Composting in Schools. Part of the Cornell Composting web site maintained by CWMI. Composting to Reduce the Waste Stream. 44-page guide to small scale food and yard waste composting. Produced by NRAES-43 (PALS). Free download. Composting: Wastes to Resources is a guide for those who want to educate youth about composting. The packet includes: a 36-page instructional guide, two posters: "Best Ever Compost" and "How Does Composting Work?" and 11 designs for compost systems. Home Composting. 4-page "how-to" fact sheet containing information about food and yard wastes composting. Home Composting Slide Show. A 4-part presentation about: Organisms Involved in the Compost Process; Manageable Components of the Composting Process; Materials that can be Composted; and Systems. Also updated in a PDF format. Home Garden Use of Milorganite®. A two-page fact sheet addressing questions and answers about the use of dried sewage sludge material in the home garden. 2006. Health & Safety Guidance for Small Scale Composting. A two-page fact sheet resulting from a study conducted by CWMI to explore the presence and distribution of bacterial pathogens in small scale compost bins and piles. The full report is also available at: Hygienic Implications of Small-Scale Composting in New York State. 2004. Health & Safety Guidance for Composting in the School Setting. A two-page fact sheet providing guidance for those concerned about exposure to compost. 2005. It's Gotten Rotten video is a 20-minute video (free download or purchase) designed to introduce high school students to the science of composting. It focuses primarily on the biology of the invertebrates and microorganisms that decompose organic matter. Teacher's Guide included. Master Composter Program Guide and Resource Manual. This two-part manual provides the resources needed to create and implement a Master Composter Program. Preventing Animal Nuisances in Small Scale Composting. A two-page fact sheet describing how to "nuisance proof" your compost. A survey conducted by CWMI of NYS Cooperative Extension Offices and the NYS Association for Reduction, Reuse, and Recycling, Inc (NYSAR) members to measure the abundance and availability of home composting resources to the general public. Small to Medium Scale Composting of Food Wastes in New York City Final report by Cornell Dept of Food Science and City Green, Inc. For more information, contact your local Cooperative Extension Office. About CWMI Composting Farm Waste Management Sewage Sludge Soil Quality Health and Safety Resources Search Home Cornell Waste Management Institute © 2009 Soil and Crop Sciences Section Bradfield Hall, Cornell University Ithaca, NY 14853 607-255-1187 cwmi@cornell.edu Soil and Crop Sciences Section Home Compost ing: Its Time Has Come Earth Machines. Credit: NYC Compost Project hosted by The New York Botanical Garden. Fall is a great time to start composting, and there arguably has never been a better time to consider how to grow food and compost at home — it’s an opportunity to support healthy local soils and protect local food production and distribution. Schools, congregations, gardening groups, climate activists, and local government can promote and teach home composting. Composting is not rocket science, but learning the basics will set home composters and gardeners up for success.  ILSR Home Composting Resources Home Composting Basics – What, Why, and How Upcoming virtual workshops: Home Composting Workshops as part of DMV Food Recovery Week: October 18th (intro to hot and vermicomposting) and October 20th (Taller del compostaje casero / Learn How to Home Compost oered in Spanish). Webinar – Composting at Home: An Introduction to the Basics – May 2020  Yes! In My Backyard: A Home Composting Guide for Local Government How to Compost Pumpkins Online virtual training (contact us at Composting4Community@ilsr.org to create a customized version for your community) “10 Reasons to Compost” graphic. Download this infographic as a jpeg (click here). • • • • • • • COMPOSTING HOME PAGE G E T C O M P O S T I N G U P D AT E S T O P R E S O U R C E S Hierarchy to Reduce Food Waste and Grow Community Highlighting the importance of locally based composting solutions as a rst priority over large-scale regional solutions. Posters: Compost Impacts More Than You Think Learn how composting protects the soil and climate while creating jobs in our series of posters. Neighborhood Soil Rebuilders Composter Training Program The NSR program trains community leaders to run composting projects that engage and serve their communities. Composting for Community Map Our map provides an interactive illustration of how communities pursue locally based composting capacity and enterprises. Composting Resources indicates required Subscribe * Email Address *  Smithsonian Institution’s Take Easy Action for Less Wasted Food at Home (video here) – April 2021 Compost is the dark, crumbly, earthy smelling material produced by the decomposition of organic materials such as food scraps and yard trimmings. When added to soil, compost sequesters carbon, improves plant growth, conserves water, reduces reliance on chemical pesticides and fertilizers, and helps prevent nutrient runo and soil erosion. At- home or backyard composting has additional benets. It saves local government money by avoiding the need to collect and process material. With all these benets, why aren’t more people composting at home? There is a misconception that adoption is low due to poor system designs, lack of space, and odors. We disagree. Adoption is low because citizens are not incentivized to home compost and are not provided the training, guidance, equipment, and exposure to best practices to succeed. Composting is increasingly recognized as the predominant method for recycling food waste. Sadly, little attention is paid to home composting, though it is among the best opportunities to reduce food waste, especially in the near-term and especially in areas lacking facilities to compost or in communities now suspending curbside collection of food scraps due to the COVID-19 pandemic.  Another misconception about home composting is that it can only divert a small portion of residential waste. We disagree with this too. Studies indicate that 23 to 83 pounds per household per month could be diverted through home composting. Personalized training and support increases the potential. For every 10,000 households composting at home, between 1,400 and 5,000 tons per year could be diverted from curbside collection, with potential savings in avoided disposal costs alone ranging from $72,000 to $250,000.* * Source: ILSR, Yes! In My Backyard: A Home Composting Guide for Local Government, pg. 6 Related ILSR Composting Resources Neighborhood Soil Rebuilders Composter Train-the-Trainer Program Community Composting Done Right: A Guide to Best Management Practices Posters and infographics: Hierarchy to Reduce Food Waste & Grow Community (graphic/poster listing home composting as a priority strategy) Composting Impacts More Than You Think (infographic and series of posters on benets of compost to soil, climate, waste reduction, and jobs) Links to Other Home Composting Resources Residential Composting During COVID-19 (US Composting Council Fact Sheet) Cornell Waste Management Institute’s Small Scale or Backyard Composting Backyard Composting – Seattle Public Utilities • • • • • • • • • Community Composting Webinars In our webinar series, we explore a variety of topics relevant to community composters, from climate to hauling permits. Composting for Community Podcast Our podcast brings you stories from the people doing this work on the ground and in the soil. P O L I C Y L I B R A RY Policy Library Our library of local, state, and federal policies on composting and community development. L I S T E N A N D WAT C H Composting for Food Sovereignty in Atlanta Catalyzing Greater Equity Through Composting Cities’ Exclusive Agreements With Trash Collectors Are Holding Back Community Composters Through Pedal-Power, Community Composters Cultivate Deeper Connections with their Community Composting Connects Black and Latinx Youth to their Roots